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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 148

post #1471 of 14551
with rubber dome keyboards you have to depress the key all the way down about 3-4mm with more force to ensure the keystroke registers (bottoming out)

but with mechanical switch keyboards you only need to depress the key about 2mm to the actuation point to ensure the keystroke registers and with less force, how much? as much as the tactile and audible feedback provide.

switches like the Cherry MX Black Linear, Alps Black and Alps Black copies that require more force make a clacking noise when you bottom them out because of the back plate.

we warned him not to bottom out. it's a habit that needs to be broken and it takes about 3 weeks to acclimate to a mechanical switch keyboard.

you can be very creative with AutoHotKey. they have a helpful forum and a variety of media scripts already available for Windows Vista and 7. I would learn the AutoHotKey language because there might be other macros you might want in the future.

Christine
Edited by lmnop - 2/11/10 at 1:55am
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post #1472 of 14551
Twocables, if you can forgo the USB hub (maybe just buy one for your desk?), a Deck Legend sounds perfect for you. No extra buttons, bone standard layout, left Win key, and admittedly no wrist wrest but those are easy enough to purchase. They're also the only backlit mechanical keyboards I know of, so you gain a feature for the loss of the USB hub. They come in two variants - linear and tactile. The linear version probably isn't for you, but the tactile version is very nice indeed.

One word of warning however - the tactile (and linear) switches are a bit heavy. I did a weight test of 70g on my board and the key still did not actuate. It's great for gaming, but it'll likely take you a few weeks to get used to the heavy throw of the switches for regular typing.
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post #1473 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayvinAzn View Post
Twocables, if you can forgo the USB hub (maybe just buy one for your desk?), a Deck Legend sounds perfect for you. No extra buttons, bone standard layout, left Win key, and admittedly no wrist wrest but those are easy enough to purchase. They're also the only backlit mechanical keyboards I know of, so you gain a feature for the loss of the USB hub. They come in two variants - linear and tactile. The linear version probably isn't for you, but the tactile version is very nice indeed.

One word of warning however - the tactile (and linear) switches are a bit heavy. I did a weight test of 70g on my board and the key still did not actuate. It's great for gaming, but it'll likely take you a few weeks to get used to the heavy throw of the switches for regular typing.
I found one that I'm really, really liking. Plus, I can just get one of these three USB cables and plug my mouse into it as though it were plugged right into the keyboard! I can easily attach one of those to where I need to place it!

Anyway, on with the keyboard that I am really liking!

The Deck Legend - Ice (tactile) 105-key keyboard!

Man. If I had this combined with one of those USB extension cables and also combined with AutoHotKey, then I would be absolutely set! Yeah, it's super expensive, but I'm ready to shell out this much money. Plus, it has the Cherry MX Clears (or probably the Cherry MX Browns by now).

What I like about this keyboard is that I'll get to stay with the backlit keys (which I've found to be extremely useful), I'll be able to have Cherry MX Clear or Brown switches (either one is fine, but I would rather have the Browns), I'll be able to use PS/2, and of course I'll use AutoHotKey!

Plus, it has the left WinKey which is probably the most important thing to me.

But hey: I have 3 weeks to decide, so this isn't over yet.
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post #1474 of 14551
Twocables, my Deck Legend ICE (Tactile) should be here today! I agree with everything you mentioned, I would like a USB port but I do have a hub built into my desk so that is almost as convenient.

I also picked up an IBM Model M off ebay the other day (37.00 with shipping) that I plan on modding into a Steampunk keyboard with antique keys, going a bit further with this one than I did with my Dell AT101W. I very much like the buckling spring switches.....takes me back to the day
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post #1475 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by PropNut View Post
Twocables, my Deck Legend ICE (Tactile) should be here today! I agree with everything you mentioned, I would like a USB port but I do have a hub built into my desk so that is almost as convenient.

I also picked up an IBM Model M off ebay the other day (37.00 with shipping) that I plan on modding into a Steampunk keyboard with antique keys, going a bit further with this one than I did with my Dell AT101W. I very much like the buckling spring switches.....takes me back to the day
Oh wow! I most definitely want to know what you think of this keyboard the minute you have something to say about it!

These next 3 weeks are sure to be fun for me.
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post #1476 of 14551
Thread Starter 
Well hey, just go with whatever you think you'll like .

And by the way, the Das also supports PS/2. It has two plugs at the end, one for the keyboard one for the hub, and the keyboard plug can be used with one of those little USB->PS/2 plugs (which I think it comes with anyway).
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post #1477 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
Well hey, just go with whatever you think you'll like .

And by the way, the Das also supports PS/2. It has two plugs at the end, one for the keyboard one for the hub, and the keyboard plug can be used with one of those little USB->PS/2 plugs (which I think it comes with anyway).
Yeah, I'm definitely going to make sure I can use PS/2 instead.

By the way: how loud are the Cherry MX Blues anyway?
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post #1478 of 14551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Yeah, I'm definitely going to make sure I can use PS/2 instead.

By the way: how loud are the Cherry MX Blues anyway?
It's kind of hard to gauge loudness . They'd probably annoy anyone sitting in the room with you, but if you close the door noone outside should hear them without sticking their ear to the door. Of course, we're only talking about the click here, not the sound of you bottoming out like you will at first.

Though the thing with clicky switches is that by the time you stop bottoming out, your mind also kind of blocks out their sound. Like if you've ever lived on a busy street or by a train station, eventually you just stop hearing the cars/train pass by? Kind of like that. Except in this case, when the noise skips a bit (like if you miss a key or hit one extra) you notice immediately.
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post #1479 of 14551
I am wondering why the cherry blues have a 9 compared to cherry browns 8 for gaming out of 10?

Also I can't seem to find the geekhack website that showed the amount of force needed to actuate a keystroke. Can someone please link me it?
post #1480 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyleson View Post
I am wondering why the cherry blues have a 9 compared to cherry browns 8 for gaming out of 10?

Also I can't seem to find the geekhack website that showed the amount of force needed to actuate a keystroke. Can someone please link me it?
I think the GeekHack page is this one:

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?tit...l+things+topre

Anyway, the reason why the Browns aren't as good as the Blues for gaming is because the Browns are slightly easier to press and therefore it's easier to accidentally activate keys that you didn't intend to activate. Some people have accuracy problems that are nearly impossible to overcome, so that's why the MX Blacks have a the best gaming rating among these three MX switches. That's why Steelseries used the Cherry MX Black switch in the 7G. They require more force and are smoother and so they're best suited for gaming.
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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