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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 210

post #2091 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaseballboy1234 View Post
This is what im hoping to see in the future as well... more production, cheaper prices maybe
Yeah! And I was just thinking that even if the demand for mechanical switches increases substantially, then we can still rest assured that they are still going to be far superior to the "common" switches like Rubber Domes! I mean, I am afraid that if the demand gets high enough, then the quality of the switches will be reduced due to being even more mass-produced than they are now.

Of course, it'll probably go the other direction: we'll start seeing cheap knock-offs that are almost no better in quality and durability and feel than Rubber Domes. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
I'm so psyched; I managed to find a Filco Majestouch w/ Brown switches and NKRO for $110
What?! Where? That's awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by yawnbox View Post
I sure was giddy
Yeah, like a school girl right? Ahem. Um... I was. I'm still remembering it! It was hilarious! I hope that I don't get caught doing that some day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yawnbox View Post
Wow Manyak, amazing stuff. I'm happy we have such dedicated members helping others. Cheers!
Amen!
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post #2092 of 14566
Still waiting on a dang Otaku Cherry Blue...
    
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post #2093 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaseballboy1234 View Post

Deeper, he did have a point that mechanical hype is becoming a little crazy because of the fact that they cost soo much and they cant "match" with newer board that are on the market today...
Dont any of you guys ever think that the hype is causing little craze? Like some people just want a board that works and some threads on here ask for a keyboard, but many of us say "go mechical"
(i do agree g15 and razers are piece a crap)
[this hasnt changed my plans of getting the filco though ]
I agree that some people just looking for a cheap keyboard are probably not going to be interested in a more expensive mechanical board. It's when people start spending as much on a Razer or Logitech as they would on a Filco, Das, or Deck that I start prodding them towards a mechanical board.
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post #2094 of 14566
What keyswitches does the Cherry G84-4100PPAUS use?
post #2095 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by v193r View Post
i am so selling my abs m1 and getting the 6gv2 when it comes out. ill be perfect for gaming and cheaper than any other cherry mx blacks.
I saw an article about this. i forgot how much they are going to be and when are they going to be released? also what kind of switches are they?
 
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post #2096 of 14566
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaseballboy1234 View Post
Deeper, he did have a point that mechanical hype is becoming a little crazy because of the fact that they cost soo much and they cant "match" with newer board that are on the market today...
Dont any of you guys ever think that the hype is causing little craze? Like some people just want a board that works and some threads on here ask for a keyboard, but many of us say "go mechical"
(i do agree g15 and razers are piece a crap)
[this hasnt changed my plans of getting the filco though ]
Before you read the rest of this post, understand this: when talking about rubber domes, I'm usually referring to the mass marketed crap like G15s. There are high quality rubber dome keyboards out there, but let's not complicate things or I'm going to have to write a thesis paper to explain it all lol.

Now, let's look at this completely objectively for a second. Let's ignore all the subjective stuff (looks, feel, key shape, and so on) and talk about actual, physical differences.

Mass Marketed Keyboards:
+ Almost all have media buttons
+ Some boards have LCDs
= Some boards have extra keys for macros
- Domes are generally rated for 5 million keypresses, but usually that's being generous
- LED lit boards use diffuser sheets so that only a few LEDs can light up the entire board
- Almost exclusively use thin, flimsier plastics, such as PVC
- Only one board has anything resembling NKRO, and it's buggy
- Key printing is pad printed, or in the case of backlit ones, a surface coating
- Light weight causes the keyboards to slide around on the desk a lot, especially as the keyboard gets older (the rubber feet become smoother)
- One non-working switch renders the keyboard useless
- Cheap plastics and construction causes keyboards to warp and not sit flat on the desk

Mechanical Keyboards (and other high quality ones):
+ Switches are rated for up to 100 million keypresses
+ Generally use thicker, stronger plastics, such as ABS
+ Often come with a steel plate as reinforcement
+ Generally use Lasered or Dyesub key printing
+ LED lit boards use 1 LED per key, resulting in much better lighting
+ Readily available with NKRO
+ Heavy weight keeps the keyboard from sliding around while typing, even after decades
+ Strong plastics prevent keyboard from warping and wobbling on the desk
+ Busted switches can be replaced for a few cents, or swapped with a never-used key (like scroll lock)
= Some boards have extra keys for macros
- Don't have dedicated media buttons
- No models with LCDs available

Now, look at this financially for a minute here. On average, rubber dome keyboards need to be replaced at least once during the lifetime of a PC (around 4 years). Now, until today, I have yet to hear anyone say that they need to replace their mechanical board - even ones from the '80s. So let's give mechanical keyboards the theoretical lifespan of 20 years (100 million keypresses vs 5 million, so 5 times as long).

If you buy rubber dome boards for $50 each, in 20 years you will have spent $250 on keyboards. But if you buy a single mechanical board for $150, you just saved yourself $100. Even if down the line you decide you want to get a new keyboard just for the hell of it, your old board can now be used on other computers (and will probably outlive you), or you can sell it for about half the price you bought it for (though it's usually more). So say you sell it for $75 and buy another one for another $150, that's $225 total on two boards. That's still less than you would pay if you just keep buying rubber domes and throwing them away once they're through.

Of course, mechanical boards are not for everyone, because at the end of the day keyboards are more of a personal, subjective purchase. But it's really the other way around - the mass marketed keyboards can't match mechanical boards' quality. It's like comparing a Honda Accord to a Lamborghini Murcielago. The Accord has a couple of features the Lambo doesn't (like rear seats, ipod integration, and so on), but the Lambo still has better core components (engine, cooling, ...). I only try to point people to keyboards designed by engineers, not marketing directors, even if they're just looking for a cheap rubber dome board. This way they at least get their money's worth.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
What keyswitches does the Cherry G84-4100PPAUS use?
All G84 boards use ML switches.
Edited by Manyak - 3/8/10 at 10:56pm
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post #2097 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
All G84 boards use ML switches.
Thanks... Just posted on GeekHack too though.

Are they ML Black? Or are there other ML switches?
post #2098 of 14566
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
Thanks... Just posted on GeekHack too though.

Are they ML Black? Or are there other ML switches?
Nope, there are only ML Blacks.
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post #2099 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaseballboy1234 View Post
This is what im hoping to see in the future as well... more production, cheaper prices maybe
The only problem is noise. A loud keyboard will scare most people away pretty fast. They'll dismiss it as an old clunky keyboard and not actually give it an honest try.

Honestly, I'm starting to appreciate more and more the tacky mod I did to my black alps. I think I got really lucky. Especially after reading person after person looking for a keyswitch with short, quiet travel that is stiff enough not to bottom out.

Seriously, I type faster on it than on my thinkpad. I typed slower on the original switches because they are so easy to bottom out. I think that is a lot of the reason for me anyway. The thinkpad scissor switches have to be bottomed out, and the original black alps were hard not to. If you have to bottom out each key press it's kind of like tripping.

Compare it to running. If you bottom out the keys, it is like suddenly hitting the ground, stopping, and having to get up and start moving again, instead of lightly touching the ground and having your foot be forced back up.
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post #2100 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post
The only problem is noise. A loud keyboard will scare most people away pretty fast. They'll dismiss it as an old clunky keyboard and not actually give it an honest try.

Honestly, I'm starting to appreciate more and more the tacky mod I did to my black alps. I think I got really lucky. Especially after reading person after person looking for a keyswitch with short, quiet travel that is stiff enough not to bottom out.

Seriously, I type faster on it than on my thinkpad. I typed slower on the original switches because they are so easy to bottom out. I think that is a lot of the reason for me anyway. The thinkpad scissor switches have to be bottomed out, and the original black alps were hard not to. If you have to bottom out each key press it's kind of like tripping.

Compare it to running. If you bottom out the keys, it is like suddenly hitting the ground, stopping, and having to get up and start moving again, instead of lightly touching the ground and having your foot be forced back up.
They'll probably answer the call by coating the bottom of the keycaps with some rubber or something so that when they hit the board, they won't make the big clacky sound. Or, they might put that rubber on the board itself so that the keys hit rubber instead of the plastic of the keyboard's body.

I'm not saying that this won't be expensive, though. I imagine that detailing like this would make them way more expensive.
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It's a computer!
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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