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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 306

post #3051 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by clownfart View Post
Well I don't think there is a way to remove them with chemicals(without melting the key), unless it's a very cheap or old key.

Best way probably is to sandblast the keys. Personally I rather get a blank set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnop View Post
I don't think so, not without damaging the plastic. you need a solvent strong enough to strip the pad printing but not strong enough to warp the structural integrity of the plastic.

by the time it's done the keycap is probably going to have a bleached look because the pigment they add to the plastic to give it color is probably going to be stripped or at least inconsistent.

sand blasting is expensive.



if you take a safety pin and stroke the sharp end across a laser etched keycap it will leave a scratch through it, do it enough times and you can file it off but the surface is going to be scratched even if you paint over it.

I don't know where to buy blank Alps keycaps however you could purchase this or a set of these they are for touch typing.

Christine
Thanks for the ideas. Acetone worked on an old keyboard, but like you said, it doesn't leave the key looking very clean. If you let it stay on the key too long it starts messing up the key .

My other idea is sanding down the key with fine grit sandpaper, but that will take away the texture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ktulu View Post
If you wanted to have black keys, why wouldn't you just spray paint them?
Spray paint comes off sometimes (and depending on your skill it goes on uneven). I may end up doing that once I get better at painting, and find a satisfactory matte clearcoat. Once spray paint starts coming off it gets messy.

The dell I'll probably just try to dye again. If it comes out uneven I might paint it instead.

...If at first you do not succeed, try dying again...
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post #3052 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjoey1500 View Post
...If at first you do not succeed, try dying again...
Pip Pip Good Ol' Boy, you can die trying or try dyeing hmmhmhmhmhmhmhmhm...

So a clear coat over the paint would help the paint to stick? I am assuming you sanded first and used something like Krylon fusion which bonds to plastic. I would think the clear coat would come off too, but I guess clear is better than paint.
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post #3053 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnop View Post
if you're going to order overseas I would seriously shift attention to the Cherry G80-3494LYCUS-* instead it only costs 1099 Taiwan Dollar ($34 USD)

G80-3494LYCUS-0 (White)
Polystyrol Casing
PBT (Polyester) Key Caps
Printing is Laser Etched
Backplate

G80-3494LYCUS-2 (Black)
ABS Casing
POM (Delrin) Key Caps
Printing is Laser Etched
Backplate

White version has Nubs on F, J and 5 Keys. Black version has Sloped F and J Keys and a Nip on the 5 Key.

note: I am pretty sure the Cherry G80-3600LYCEU-0 (White) and Cherry G80-3600LYCEU-2 (Black) are the same models with some minor aesthetic differences.

Cherry Logo is now Laser Etched and Painted on the 3494
Status LED indicators are now Blue instead of Green on the 3494

the reason they use POM in the Black version is because the White lettering shows up better. POM is very strong, rigid and expensive. in terms of texture it is more slippery than PBT.

Cherry MX Red switches are Linear (non-tactile, non-clicky) they are similar to the Cherry MX Black Linear but only require 45g of force to actuate and 60g of force to bottom out because they use a weaker spring. in the 3 reviews I read all 3 of them had one thing in common they mentioned the Topre RealForce in some shape or form so they should be significantly better to type with.

the Cherry G80 Classic Line that uses Cherry MX Blue, Brown and Black switches (G80-3000LSCRC-*, G80-3000LXCEU-*, G80-3000LPCEU-*) are widely available in a lot of countries but are not as solidly built, for example they are PCB mounted, rollover is only 2 n-Key rollover and they cost 60-100 depending on the country and currency.

pretty...




sculpted 104 US layout




that's not a knife. this is a knife! I mean Key Cap.



Blue LED



Cherry Stabilizers



Rollover is 6+4 in USB and 78 in PS/2 (Full) Cherry 1, Microsoft 0




for high quality photos of both models see here.

Christine
Hi Christine,

I'm very interested in a Cherry MX Red board. From what I've gathered, so far, only Cherry makes such boards. The choices being the 3600 and the 3494. May I ask, what is the true difference between these two boards? I'm in Canada and I will need to import so it is important to make sure I get the "right" MX Red keyboard. Most of my concern has to do with NKRO. Are they actually the same board or does one of them only have 2KRO?
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post #3054 of 14566
I should of changed that. the currency is wrong it's not $34 US. the retailer is in Taiwan but instead of Taiwan dollar, Yuan. you can order one with the help of Kip69 and have it shipped for no less than $170-175 US.

not sure if they have the same controller but they are both full n-key rollover. the differences are aesthetics.

3600 has adhesive Cherry Logo and Green LED
3494 has laser etched Cherry Logo and Blue LED.

I recently noticed on the 3494 black model, the characters that are laser etched are thicker than the ones on the 3494 white model. i'm not sure if all Cherry Black keyboards are like this. you can tell by looking at the curves in the numbers 9, 6, 4, etc




I think that's it.

in a review I think the translation said Cherry decided to change the status led indicators because Blue is easier on the eyes and a little more up to date.


here is some Cherry porn and the force graph.




Christine
Edited by lmnop - 4/16/10 at 6:55am
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post #3055 of 14566
Did you guys see the $20 w/free-ship ABS M1 yet? It's a really good price, even if it is just an M1

http://www.overclock.net/online-deal...-hd-pro-3.html
    
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post #3056 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by W4LNUT5 View Post
Did you guys see the $20 w/free-ship ABS M1 yet? It's a really good price, even if it is just an M1

http://www.overclock.net/online-deal...-hd-pro-3.html
im planning getting the filco this summer when i hit $150 in saving... but should i get this now instead and then get filco?
    
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post #3057 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaseballboy1234 View Post
im planning getting the filco this summer when i hit $150 in saving... but should i get this now instead and then get filco?
If you're unsure if you'll like a mechanical keyboard, this may be the way to go. It's only middle of the road as far as mechanical keyboards are concerned (quality, feel, etc), but for $20 it's a steal
    
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post #3058 of 14566
the ABS M1 link doesn't work...
Switch Type: Black Alps Copies
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post #3059 of 14566
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnop View Post
show me a painted keycap that looks good.

Christine
http://joshcarter.com/miscellany/how..._your_keyboard
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post #3060 of 14566
Got my new Filco tenkeyless with cherry blues today and I love it! The smaller form factor is nice especially as it gives me more room for my mouse. Because of this I'm no longer bumping into my pc case with my mouse (happened more so while gaming with my 104 key Filco) Strangely the blues in my tenkeyless feel just a bit more stiff than the blues in my 104 key Filco ever did, which is not a bad thing. Also, it's probably going to take a day or two to adjust to the absence of the numpad but I don't see it being a big issue. So far I'm a happy man. Let's just hope it lasts longer than my 104 key Filco did.
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