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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 382

post #3811 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor_Mizer View Post
I got the lycosa mirror so basically I clean it every day with rubbing alcohol, or else it looks like a mess from dust/fingerprints. The keys are still looking good and Ive had it for about 8 months.
Yeah, but the lettering is more or less a hole in that mirror-like coating.
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post #3812 of 14567
I do float my palms for the most part, since I'm a bit of a pecker. I have the Otaku, so I don't really hunt, but my form is certainly far from perfect.

Sometimes I rest the side of my left hand off to the side, but I typically float my arms, unless I'm gaming for extended periods.

Maybe Cherry Blues are just loud by nature, lol.
    
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post #3813 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by pow3rtr1p View Post
I do float my palms for the most part, since I'm a bit of a pecker. I have the Otaku, so I don't really hunt, but my form is certainly far from perfect.

Sometimes I rest the side of my left hand off to the side, but I typically float my arms, unless I'm gaming for extended periods.

Maybe Cherry Blues are just loud by nature, lol.
Hmm.. Try this:

Slowly press a key down until it clicks, and then let go. Then compare it to the sound you're getting right now that seems loud. I'm suspecting that the keycaps are being bottomed out against the body of the keyboard.
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It's a computer!
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
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Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
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Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
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post #3814 of 14567
You're right, it's the keys bottoming out. I'll try to learn to type a little lighter, I guess, lol.
    
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post #3815 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor_Mizer View Post
I got the lycosa mirror so basically I clean it every day with rubbing alcohol, or else it looks like a mess from dust/fingerprints. The keys are still looking good and Ive had it for about 8 months.
the Filco keycaps are made out of polystyrene this is a low end plastic that is commonly used by Logitech and Microsoft. the keycaps are really thin and the thickness of a keycap is important because it influences sound and touch. the printing is pad printed and a uniform coating is applied to the keycap to protect the pad printing from fading this is what it looks like when it wears.






Filco top left, Logitech bottom left.

you can buy a couple sets of pad printed keycaps from elitekeyboards which will cost $35/ea or you can harvest double shot keycaps from 2 used Cherry keyboards from eBay which will cost you $60+ and the end result will look like this.


Deck keycaps are made out of PBT which is a blend of polycarbonate (thermal plastic) and polyester, the keycaps on Topre and Unicomp keyboards are also made out of PBT. the keycaps are thicker than Filco. the printing is unique because they use 2-shot or double shot molding and sublimated.



Edited by lmnop - 5/17/10 at 10:49am
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post #3816 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
As for the lettering wearing out on the Filco Majestouch boards: it depends, but the average is anywhere from a couple of months to maybe 6 months or more. But how much of the lettering of course depends on how much friction you apply to the printing every day, how much sweat/oil your fingers have, how dirty they are, how dirty the keys are, etc.
I read somewhere that the blank keys in Otaku boards have a surface coating similar to the printed keys, and that the separate blank keyset has just a matte surface.
Does this mean that the blank Otaku keys will also wear out and become ugly & shiny, thus making it better for an aesthete such as myself to buy a printed keyboard + a blank keyset?
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post #3817 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeonus View Post
I read somewhere that the blank keys in Otaku boards have a surface coating similar to the printed keys, and that the separate blank keyset has just a matte surface.
Does this mean that the blank Otaku keys will also wear out and become ugly & shiny, thus making it better for an aesthete such as myself to buy a printed keyboard + a blank keyset?
the stock keycaps on the Otaku model have a uniform coating like the printed set on the other models. the blank set of keycaps elitekeyboards sell under accessories don't have a uniform coating.
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post #3818 of 14567
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnop View Post
the stock keycaps on the Otaku model have a uniform coating like the printed set on the other models. the blank set of keycaps elitekeyboards sell under accessories don't have a uniform coating.
I just got mail from keyboardco, telling that blank 105 keysets are coming ^^
Also, they are getting some boards with a Swed/Fin layout, it should be 105 keys as well. Perfect for a dweller of the Arctic such as myself.
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post #3819 of 14567
Cousin couldn't get the Black Cherry 3494 :/ Only in White. Oh well, he's going to ship it out UPS in about 2-3 days. Hopefully it'll be in within 2 weeks. Will post pics once it comes in.

Christine, whats the difference between the key caps on the White and Black 3494?
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post #3820 of 14567
I am having trouble finding the Cherry boards in Taiwan too, places that used to have them are out of stock. Can someone help me find the one with reds for Manyak
 
Folding for coinz
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Folding for coinz
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