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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 508

post #5071 of 14551



rebranded Chicony 7001 on eBay.
Edited by lmnop - 7/18/10 at 1:01am
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post #5072 of 14551
Are there any cool replaceable keys for the Steelseries 7g? like for the WASD keys?
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post #5073 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnop View Post
I don't like them.

the font on the iOne Scorpius M10BL is actually worst than the Deck. I don't know why they chose Cherry MX Blue switches over Black but Otterclock should be happy since his dying wish is a Deck Legend with Cherry MX Blue switches. orange W, S, A, D? why not Red or Blue? why not arrows? they won't illuminate.

a couple days ago a iOne service rep said the iOne Xarmor U9BL will be available in North America in Mid July and retail for $149.95 USD.
lol. I agree with you on the font. What's the deal with that. My dying wish may go unfulfilled for a while since I have a moratorium on keyboard purchases for the time being. I'm using a scissor switched Rosewill at the moment that I like a lot more than I should.
    
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post #5074 of 14551
I've got a little something bothering me. I've noticed that my W key seems to take less force to reach the actuation point than the rest of my keys. The tactility is still there, and it takes the same force to actuate; just not to reach the actuation point. (tactile bump) Get what I'm saying? Is this normal? I unfortunately don't remember if it felt like this NOotB, but it IS the key that's constantly being pressed during gaming. (which is what raises my suspicion)
Edited by Maytan - 7/18/10 at 10:24am
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post #5075 of 14551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maytan View Post
I've got a little something bothering me. I've noticed that my W key seems to take less force to reach the actuation point than the rest of my keys. The tactility is still there, and it takes the same force to actuate; just not to reach the actuation point. (tactile bump) Get what I'm saying? Is this normal? I unfortunately don't remember if it felt like this NOotB, but it IS the key that's constantly being pressed during gaming. (which is what raises my suspicion)
If anything just do a switch swap with the scroll lock key or something.
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post #5076 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
If anything just do a switch swap with the scroll lock key or something.
ARE YOU MAD SIR!!! Swapping the Scroll Lock, but it is used so often.

/sarcasm
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post #5077 of 14551
just bit the bullet and bought the das silent pro
102 bucks shipped
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post #5078 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maytan View Post
I've got a little something bothering me. I've noticed that my W key seems to take less force to reach the actuation point than the rest of my keys. The tactility is still there, and it takes the same force to actuate; just not to reach the actuation point. (tactile bump) Get what I'm saying? Is this normal? I unfortunately don't remember if it felt like this NOotB, but it IS the key that's constantly being pressed during gaming. (which is what raises my suspicion)
I agree with Manyak because the distance to the actuation point should be identical from switch to switch. So if there's one that's different, then you can either swap the W's switch with the Scroll Lock's switch (or just a key that you never use), or RMA it. However, it sounds to me that swapping switches is easy except that it requires de-soldering and soldering. But this can still be a cakewalk as long as you are good at following instructions. Unfortunately, I can't provide those instructions - I've never done this.
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post #5079 of 14551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
I agree with Manyak because the distance to the actuation point should be identical from switch to switch. So if there's one that's different, then you can either swap the W's switch with the Scroll Lock's switch (or just a key that you never use), or RMA it. However, it sounds to me that swapping switches is easy except that it requires de-soldering and soldering. But this can still be a cakewalk as long as you are good at following instructions. Unfortunately, I can't provide those instructions - I've never done this.
Heat up soldering iron.

Melt solder.

Pick up molten solder with wick.

Put new switch in place.

Melt new solder into connectors.
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post #5080 of 14551
I'm not going to solder. I'm far too clumsy to even trust myself to bring it near a computer component. Besides, for a $135 keyboard (oh wait, $145 because I had to pay to RMA my first one! Thanks, Metadot.) I shouldn't have to do this.

As long as I'm ranting, I should add that there's other inconsistencies like this one on other keys, just not to the point where I thought it was worth complaining. (considering these Cherry switches are probably manufactured in Korean sweatshops for 15 cents a pop, I expected some degree of variation) However, the W key was so different that it's actually bothersome to use.

TwoCables, it's not the distance that is different; but the force to reach the tactile bump. (but not to actuate it) I don't know if you understand what I'm saying; it feels like the switch has been weakened, like it does with rubber domes.

I'm also having more squeaking problems with the stabilizers in my Enter and Backspace keys. The only way to keep them from squeaking, is to push towards myself while depressing the key. (so I'm positive it's the stabilizers this time, whereas last time it seemed to happen no matter what; making me think the switch is bad) I was going to lube them up myself with a keycap puller I made, but combined with the fact that my W key is like this I don't want to bother. I think I'm going to go back to Metadot's support, and ask for ANOTHER REPLACEMENT under warranty. If they make me pay for shipping I swear to God somebody working for Metadot is going to get a lengthy and angrily written letter from me.

For how much trouble/money this is turning out to cost me, I should've just gotten a Deck. I am severely disappointed right now. Combine this with the fact that my DAC's drivers have been conflicting with Windows' audiodg.exe, and the fact that my motherboard has been dropping connection with my Ethernet cable for no reason; I'm not a very happy camper.

The only thing to do now is order a second 5770 and sink into gaming ignorance...
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