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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 802

post #8011 of 14551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ch_123 View Post
I've seen this done with a home-made adapter for a non-PC keyboard that is capable of NKRO. The issue he had, IIRC, is to do with how the keyboard reacts to it before the OS is loaded. It effectively meant that the thing would only work if you plugged it in when the OS was booted.
It must have been some implementation-specific limitation on his part. USB should be able to provide N-key rollover when plugging the keyboard any time.
post #8012 of 14551
IIRC, the issue was that a lot of mobos don't implement USB keyboards pre-boot in the way that they should have. He had trouble with the switchover from BIOS control to OS control.

@Genkaz: Was it made in 1994, or was it made in 1995? If it was made in 1994, it would be the earliest one of those Model Ms I've ever heard, and they're quite significant because the 42H1292 was a modernization of the Model M design.

Playing around with my Model Ms, I've actually noticed that some degree of movement with the hammers when you poke at them is normal, and it's hard for me to quantify what degree of movement is normal and what degree is not. The test whereby you tilt the keyboard back and forward to see if the spring moves is a much more accurate test. If the spring moves so that it rests against the bottom of the barrel when you tilt it forward, and against the top when you tilt it backwards, it's normal.

I am somewhat suspcious at this stage that the Model M may be operating in a completely normal manner, and that you are just finding it quite different to the Black Alps. There is a good distance of almost-linear movement in the buckling spring before it actuates, as the graph on the first page shows.

The other thing that sounds odd is the 'green' underneath, as directly under neath the hammers is a black rubber sheet. Perhaps they were using a greenish sheet when they made your keyboard? Not sure.

Oh, and when you are reinserting Model M keycaps, hold the keyboard upside-down. It makes sure the springs line up with the keycaps properly.
Edited by ch_123 - 9/23/10 at 10:09am
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post #8013 of 14551
I clearly do feel the actuation point shortly before the actual bottoming out of the key, my point was that it appears to be impossible to not bottom out the keys when typing on them. I did tilt the keyboard a bunch of times when testing the keys as well, for the most part I indeed recall the springs resting. Perhaps you could describe in detail exactly how a surely working model M feels to a finger? Also, under which circumstances is the nuts and bolts mod necessary?
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post #8014 of 14551
Some linear travel up to a pronounced tactile point. Given that you have to exert a lot of force to get over that point, you will almost certainly bottom out.

I think what happened here is that you are used to the linear switches in your Deck, and the Black Alps with the tactile point up near the top of the travel, and thus found the buckling spring to be quite different. I misread your description as a description of a problem I had with a Model M I was fixing so I jumped to conclusions. Long story short - everything is ok The odds are that if there was actually a problem with the Model M, it would be hideous to type on.

Nut and bolt mod is needed when a large number of plastic rivets have broken off.
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post #8015 of 14551
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post #8016 of 14551
I like the piece at the bottom. bastard!
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post #8017 of 14551
Meh...Good info.
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post #8018 of 14551
The ultimate point here is that Laser != indestructible. In fact, Ripster's tests show that some laser keys are of inferior durability to pad printed ones (albeit perhaps in a not-entirely realistic scenario)

You could do all that to any dye sub or double shot key and the lettering would still be there.
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post #8019 of 14551
I know that. I am talking about this.

Quote:
You WILL see monthly "OMG My Lettering Has Disappeared" posts like this one at OCN.

I've had my Das Keyboard Professional S for a few weeks now and I notice that the lettering on some of the keys is already starting to wear off. Is this typical? I opted for the version of the keyboard with the lettering, mostly for the lesser used keys.
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post #8020 of 14551
I wasn't referring to your post, merely ruminating on the topic in general.

Can I have an IBM moment?






Edited by ch_123 - 9/23/10 at 2:49pm
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