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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 90

post #891 of 14564
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLeeZeY View Post
Just a heads up, I got a cheap basic keyboard from Tesco's the other day for a 5iver (H16VKEY) to use on my spare machine, its smoother than butter.

No good for gaming, a pleasure to type on though.
It's a run-of-the-mill rubber dome keyboard. It may be more decent mush than others, but it's still typing on mush.
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post #892 of 14564
Am I correct in assuming that the Filco tenkeyless with Cherry Browns is the BEST choice if:

-I want a top notch quality keyboard with no frills
-I want a keyboard that is equally good for gaming and typing
-The keyboard must be essentially silent (NO clicks)
-I need a light touch to prevent finger fatigue




Basically, I've found this MS Sidewinder X5 is really starting to hurt my fingers with all the typing I've been doing lately for my business stuff, but I need a good board for gaming still.
post #893 of 14564
Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh View Post
Am I correct in assuming that the Filco tenkeyless with Cherry Browns is the BEST choice if:

-I want a top notch quality keyboard with no frills
-I want a keyboard that is equally good for gaming and typing
-The keyboard must be essentially silent (NO clicks)
-I need a light touch to prevent finger fatigue




Basically, I've found this MS Sidewinder X5 is really starting to hurt my fingers with all the typing I've been doing lately for my business stuff, but I need a good board for gaming still.
I'd say get the one with the keypad. Comes in handy with no media buttons and also for general number input.
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post #894 of 14564
Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh View Post
Am I correct in assuming that the Filco tenkeyless with Cherry Browns is the BEST choice if:

-I want a top notch quality keyboard with no frills
-I want a keyboard that is equally good for gaming and typing
-The keyboard must be essentially silent (NO clicks)
-I need a light touch to prevent finger fatigue




Basically, I've found this MS Sidewinder X5 is really starting to hurt my fingers with all the typing I've been doing lately for my business stuff, but I need a good board for gaming still.
If my memory serves a Realforce or Happy Hacking Keyboard are a tad lighter than Cherry Browns, and I don't believe they click. They're very high quality, and certainly aren't big on frills either. However, at double the price of a Filco it's up to you whether or not that's really worth it.
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post #895 of 14564
How are these things with spills?

I have wrecked a few keyboards with spills - thankfully cheapos - but I'd be very upset if I broke a $100-$150+ with a drink.
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post #896 of 14564
Quote:
Originally Posted by tNok85 View Post
How are these things with spills?

I have wrecked a few keyboards with spills - thankfully cheapos - but I'd be very upset if I broke a $100-$150+ with a drink.
surely you are not that careless. mechanical keyboards are prone to damage by liquids like any other keyboard. there are some liquid resistant mechanical keyboards like some of these. I don't think there are many people who own a mechanical keyboard who don't have basic knowledge of the inner workings it kinda comes with the territory. once you buy one you should have a better understanding and learn tips and tricks, modifications and the inner workings. how does this help against spills? you will hopefully be able to repair it yourself if it's past the warranty.
Edited by lmnop - 11/25/09 at 1:37am
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post #897 of 14564
Thread Starter 
iandh:

Yup you picked the best mechanical switches for what you're looking for. I'd say you want either those or the Topre switches (Realforce boards). Topre are capacitive, not mechanical, but they feel absolutely great. They're twice the price though, and because they use rubber they'll probably last about 1/2 as long as a mechanical (but still a lot longer than regular contact-base rubber domes).



Quote:
Originally Posted by tNok85 View Post
How are these things with spills?

I have wrecked a few keyboards with spills - thankfully cheapos - but I'd be very upset if I broke a $100-$150+ with a drink.
Some are great, some suck really badly. For example, certain Model Ms and Customizers are almost impossible to wreck with liquid just as long as you don't tip it so that the liquid goes towards the top where the PCB is. If you spill something besides water, then spill a bit of water on it too to flush it out and leave it to dry for a few days and it'll be good. But if you spill something on a Cherry MX11800 you'll need to take it apart and soak the switches in water to get any sticky crap out of them (assuming you spilled something that isn't water), and then dry the whole thing off so that the PCB doesn't corrode.
Edited by Manyak - 11/25/09 at 5:10am
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post #898 of 14564
Why are these keyboards (for the most part) so ugly? They look like something off of my old 486. This is not what the majority of people want clearly since keyboards are mostly designed today with sleek exteriors and exotic designs.

Also, why would people spend over 100 dollars on a potentially PS/2 only keyboard when motherboard manufacturers seem to want to get rid of PS/2 ports?

I understand that a strong spring would be helpful to prevent misclicked keys for some who like to rest the weight of their hand on the keyboard (I have this issue with my mouse buttons on cheap mice!) but I don't understand how the tactile feedback would be helpful for people. I always have pressed my keys all the way down while typing, and I'm pretty certain the keyboards on my old computers (133Mhz and 233Mhz lol) were mechanical. Granted I have not used one in a very long time so it could just be me forgetting what it was like.

I'm not trying to bash your guide I just want some answers to certain things that weren't quite clarified with your guide.
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post #899 of 14564
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by v3rt3x.cub3d View Post
Why are these keyboards (for the most part) so ugly? They look like something off of my old 486. This is not what the majority of people want clearly since keyboards are mostly designed today with sleek exteriors and exotic designs.

Also, why would people spend over 100 dollars on a potentially PS/2 only keyboard when motherboard manufacturers seem to want to get rid of PS/2 ports?

I understand that a strong spring would be helpful to prevent misclicked keys for some who like to rest the weight of their hand on the keyboard (I have this issue with my mouse buttons on cheap mice!) but I don't understand how the tactile feedback would be helpful for people. I always have pressed my keys all the way down while typing, and I'm pretty certain the keyboards on my old computers (133Mhz and 233Mhz lol) were mechanical. Granted I have not used one in a very long time so it could just be me forgetting what it was like.

I'm not trying to bash your guide I just want some answers to certain things that weren't quite clarified with your guide.
By the time computers hit 133MHz mechanical keyboards were already almost forgotten. The only PCs that still came with a mechanical board at the time were the IBMs - and even then it wasn't included with anything but the top of the line models.

Anyway, as for your questions:

- The majority of people don't even know how to touch type. Why would they care about how the keyboard feels when they have to hunt and peck anyway? Keyboards are made with exotic exteriors and shiny plastic that gets fingerprints all over it because that's simply what appeals to people who don't know or care for the difference underneath the hood. No matter what body kit you put on a Toyota you'll never make it a Ferrari. The Ferrari is simply built better and lasts much longer, just like mechanical keyboards. Besides, there are people such as myself who DON'T want all the useless bells and whistles on these "cool" boards. I much prefer the simple, clean look of a Filco to any of that other crap. And since these boards last through decades of heavy use, it's not like you're really spending any more on one of these than you would on the 5 or 6 regular boards that you'd have to go through in the same amount of time.

Don't believe me? Just check ebay for all the Model M boards from the 1980's. Used for 25 years and still kicking.

- The difference between PS/2 and USB is explained in the OP, and PS/2 is better. But none of the newer boards are PS/2 only. Not even potentially.

- The whole point of mechanical boards is so that you DON'T press the keys all the way down. Hitting the bottom of the keyboard is a waste of energy and tires out your fingers. The tactile bump is there so that you can feel exactly when the switch actuates, this way you no longer have to bottom out the switch. It takes a while to get used to but when you do it's a much better typing experience. And a strong spring is only nice for gaming really. For typing, when first coming off a rubber dome you'll probably start with a stiff spring, then as you get used to not bottoming out you'll start to prefer lighter and lighter ones.
Edited by Manyak - 11/25/09 at 5:54pm
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post #900 of 14564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
By the time computers hit 133MHz mechanical keyboards were already almost forgotten. The only PCs that still came with a mechanical board at the time were the IBMs - and even then it wasn't included with anything but the top of the line models.
I had a 486 as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
Anyway, as for your questions:

- The majority of people don't even know how to touch type. Why would they care about how the keyboard feels when they have to hunt and peck anyway? Keyboards are made with exotic exteriors and shiny plastic that gets fingerprints all over it because that's simply what appeals to people who don't know or care for the difference underneath the hood. No matter what body kit you put on a Toyota you'll never make it a Ferrari. The Ferrari is simply built better and lasts much longer, just like mechanical keyboards. Besides, there are people such as myself who DON'T want all the useless bells and whistles on these "cool" boards. I much prefer the simple, clean look of a Filco to any of that other crap. And since these boards last through decades of heavy use, it's not like you're really spending any more on one of these than you would on the 5 or 6 regular boards that you'd have to go through in the same amount of time.
I've never had a keyboard die on my in my life, and I've only owned three keyboards, I switched the first because my newer computer didn't have a PS/2 port (go figure) and I switched again because I bought a G15 because I like the G15.

I am a touch typist, I do not look at my keyboard and can type in the dark if need be. Most people may not be, but as a touch typist I've never had an issue with membrane keyboards.

And again, I also said that your opinion may differ, but you are not the majority of people, businesses care about who makes them the most money, you do not seem to fall under this category.

As an addition: This still doesn't clarify why these mechanical keyboard makers wouldn't just also make a mechanical keyboard that looks sleek and would get the attention of both people who want a quality keyboard and also something that looks nice? Or am I missing something, are these two groups mutually exclusive?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
Don't believe me? Just check ebay for all the Model M boards from the 1980's. Used for 25 years and still kicking.
I never said that mechanical keyboards were less durable than you made them out to be, I wouldn't doubt it either. However the tone of your post seems to be a little elitist and hostile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
- The difference between PS/2 and USB is explained in the OP, and PS/2 is better. But none of the newer boards are PS/2 only. Not even potentially.
I also don't remember asking if PS/2 was better or not, that was quite clear, I was asking why it would be justified to get PS/2 when some mobos were already phasing it out (though I still see a single PS/2 port on some boards like the Rampage II and the Classified I'm assuming for mechanical keyboard enthusiasts).

This is a nice thing to know, however doesn't this completely nullify the so well referenced complete n-rollover when using USB?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
The whole point of mechanical boards is so that you DON'T press the keys all the way down. Hitting the bottom of the keyboard is a waste of energy and tires out your fingers. The tactile bump is there so that you can feel exactly when the switch actuates, this way you no longer have to bottom out the switch. It takes a while to get used to but when you do it's a much better typing experience. And a strong spring is only nice for gaming really. For typing, when first coming off a rubber dome you'll probably start with a stiff spring, then as you get used to not bottoming out you'll start to prefer lighter and lighter ones.
I cannot disagree with this point, as the last mechanical keyboard I would have possibly used would have been 15+ years ago. I remember it being extremely loud and it sounded like a machine gun when my father was programming.

I don't think I would change my typing style though I believe I do understand what you are talking about by not bottoming out the keys, I notice very infrequently sometimes even though I have pressed a key on my G15 it doesn't register, this only happens on a few keys farthest from my typing location, I am probably not giving them enough force to register.
Edited by v3rt3x.cub3d - 11/25/09 at 6:23pm
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