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Fan Testing Part 2 (Radiator Tests & Videos)

post #1 of 34
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New rules do not allow 3rd Party Sponsored Testing or Reviews.
Edited by Martinm210 - 12/8/12 at 6:33pm
    
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post #2 of 34
Great tests! That must have been a ton of work.

Looking through the videos, anyone who still thinks the Ultra Kaze 3000 doesn't have problems undervolting needs to watch that video. That was horrible.
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post #3 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljason8eg View Post
Great tests! That must have been a ton of work.

Looking through the videos, anyone who still thinks the Ultra Kaze 3000 doesn't have problems undervolting needs to watch that video. That was horrible.
Yeah, while the 38mm fans measure generally pretty low in dB noise level, the sound quality doesn't match that. I think in general, the larger the hub and motor, the more pulsing and ticking type noises you get at lower RPMs. There is a bit of a tradeoff though. there's more motor pulsing/ticking...but on the positive, you get less noise level and a lower tone. The UK1 is pretty smooth though, so I think that's more of an undervolt with large motor type of thing.

Some people may prefer that over a smoother but higher pitched noise. But that's why I wanted to do the videos so you can decide for yourself.

I've still got a few more fan videos to record and upload, but I should be done with this in the next few days. I'll update as that gets done.
Edited by Martinm210 - 5/5/09 at 7:55pm
    
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post #4 of 34
Martin, great job. This is really gonna be helpful for people trying to quanlify what loud and quiet are to them.

Do you want a UK2? I have a bunch collecting dust and I'll gladly send one your way to test.

Do you have any ambitions to test push/pull scenarios? I'd love to quantify what that does to total noise as well as total cfm through the rad...
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post #5 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
Yeah, while the 38mm fans measure generally pretty low in dB noise level, the sound quality doesn't match that. I think in general, the larger the hub and motor, the more pulsing and ticking type noises you get at lower RPMs. There is a bit of a tradeoff though. there's more motor pulsing/ticking...but on the positive, you get less noise level and a lower tone. The UK1 is pretty smooth though, so I think that's more of an undervolt with large motor type of thing.

Some people may prefer that over a smoother but higher pitched noise. But that's why I wanted to do the videos so you can decide for yourself.

I've still got a few more fan videos to record and upload, but I should be done with this in the next few days. I'll update as that gets done.
I still like that San Ace 1011 though. Very little in the way of ticking compared to the other 38mm fans when undervolted, yet it doesn't get too loud even at 12v. Guess you get what you pay for.
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post #6 of 34
man martin, you are just brilliant.

thank you so much for your hard work! don't burn yourself out man!
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post #7 of 34
amazing work man, research and study like that is extremely rare. well done!
post #8 of 34
wow very nice man ...thank you very much
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post #9 of 34
first of all, great work man

now on the measuring the noise part, you should put some distance between the fan and the meter say about a foot or a yard

the reason is that sound will travel further depending on the frequency

if its low, then it will travel further than high frequency

so a fan might be noise when put next to the ear but when placed some distance away like in real life, it will be hardly noticeble
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post #10 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbyss View Post
first of all, great work man

now on the measuring the noise part, you should put some distance between the fan and the meter say about a foot or a yard

the reason is that sound will travel further depending on the frequency

if its low, then it will travel further than high frequency

so a fan might be noise when put next to the ear but when placed some distance away like in real life, it will be hardly noticeble
Thanks!

I'd recommend the videos over the noise numbers. The sound level meter I have and used for these tests was a cheapy (Under $100). To use a method where you measure sound level from several feet away would require that you purchase one of the high end lab grade meters that have a range down well below 30dB. Those can cost as much as $200-300 and way outside my budget.

My meter will only read down to somewhere around 39dB, so the only way I was going to get a number and a large range of useable numbers to plot and look at, I had to measure point blank range. I also added a constant background noise to keep the ambient level fixed. It's what I had to do for the tool I had to use.

But I'd be happy to run some more tests if you want to donate me one of those high grade sound level meters..

If there's one thing I've learned in this excercise, measuring sound level is very tricky. To do it right you would really need to build a sound room, then you need a sound meter that costs a fortune, then you're only measuring noise level and you're still missing the whole sound quality piece. Then you realize this was supposed to be for fun!...
    
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