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post #72 of 370
Thread Starter 
I'm about to order the HK3.0, it'll be in stock this friday, maybe I'm able to get it next Saturday
Looking at the pics of the crappy Domino block which is the same as for the FZE, I hope the HK3.0 will take off another 1-2C
Sulaco
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Sulaco
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post #73 of 370
Thread Starter 
Wooohh!! finally received the HK3.0 Now to find some time to install it
Sulaco
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Sulaco
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post #74 of 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
Wooohh!! finally received the HK3.0 Now to find some time to install it
Where did you get yours from?
Mine is still backorder.

Some updates from my side:
I should finish to transfer my NB/SB and MOSFET blocks to their own loop today or tomorrow.
I'm still working on insulating the blocks, too thin and it's not enough insulated, too thick and it impedes airflow. (more on that later)
I tried some cheap 38mm fans for push/pull but those cheap fans don't undervolt well and were ticking horribly. I'll try to get real Panaflos instead. In the meantime, I got a Kaze Master fan controller that will allow me to connect my own air/water temperature probes to an external display. What CoolIT uses as coolant temperature is really the block surface temperature.

My take on insulation:
The chiller seems to be made to operate mostly over ambient temperature. The blocks are not insulated to act as heatsink and dissipate the heat that cannot be removed by the TEC. The TEC can only handle a specific amount of heat, unlike radiators.
So a perfect insulation would make the chiller fail if it goes over ambient.
A thin insulation (2x1mm Norprene tape) is enough to at least insulate the temperature sensor from the open air. The water temperature appears higher but more stable, less jumping around up and down.

I've still got my other idea to try out, to build a tight box around each FZE to increase static pressure in push/pull configuration. I don't know when I'll have time to complete it though, I've got a big research project to finish at work and it fills almost all my time, even free time.

If I had to recommend some mods, they would go in order:
1. Additional chiller or rad
2. Replacing the pump
3. Replacing the waterblock
4. Additional fans
5. Insulating the blocks

I really think that I'm close to maxing out the mod possibilities of the FZE. I'm not even sure how I would get another 1-2C better temp besides adding a 3rd FZE or a Boreas or even better, watercooling the TECs.

TiGa
    
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post #75 of 370
Thread Starter 
I got mine from: http://www.highflow.nl they ordered them from watercool just in time.

Take a look at this:
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.p...atid=7&id=4270

But yuo're saying that the coolant temp is actually the heatsink temp?
Sulaco
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Sulaco
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post #76 of 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
But yuo're saying that the coolant temp is actually the heatsink temp?
The temperature sensors are simply stuck to the outside of the chiller blocks, it's not the real water temperature.

TiGa
    
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post #77 of 370
Thread Starter 
Adding an inline temp sensor would be an idea...I thought the sensor was somehow punched through the waterblock, guess I was wrong

I'll be needing a flow-meter and a internal temp sensor...that has to wait some weeks, as I already ordered the HK3.0, and money still doesn't grow on my back (need money for a new car).

Comparing both temps would be interesting...just to c how the heatsink-temp vs coolant temps are...
Sulaco
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Sulaco
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post #78 of 370
Thread Starter 
I installed the HeatKiller 3.0......What can I say take a look at the pics:

Close up pic of the Watercool Heat Killer v3.0


Here I installed it....I had 2 straight Feser fittings, but it seemed to be that when the bottom FZE was installed the tubes where kinked.
So the fluid could not pass... I had to order 2 90 Degree Feser fittings (sorry for the blurred pic, this was made last night with too little light...)


When I installed everything, I filled it up:


And having it run for an hour to get rid of the air:


30min:


All installed and ready to run, I already had a load temp run last night, but that was only for 10 min. This time I will have it run for 45min.

I also cleaned the stripped FZE, as you can c I removed the white stuff from the side...


Now, here it comes, the load temps on 45min OCCT, 940BE 1.47V @ 3700MHz



D*MN: 28.5C LOAD!!!

Ambient temps are 21C, the previous load temp ambient temp was 23C.
This HK3.0 took off yet another 6C!!!!!

What can I say:
2x FZE in Series with a Swiftech CMP350 pump with an XSPC topres, a HeatKiller 3.0 and some 5/16 ID tubes definitely does the trick!!

What will a Boreas with the same tubes/pump and block do
Sulaco
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Sulaco
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Swiftech MCR320-QP Swiftech MCP 350 Swiftech MCP 350 W8.1 64 
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post #79 of 370
dont replace it with a boreas, add it
post #80 of 370
Thread Starter 
Idea sounds great....but I don't think my wallet will like it
Sulaco
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Iiyama ProLite XB2779QS Black 27" Iiyama E480S 20" Roccat Ryos MK pro CoolerMaster 850W ESBA 
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Sulaco
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Swiftech MCR320-QP Swiftech MCP 350 Swiftech MCP 350 W8.1 64 
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