Overclock.net banner

CoolIT TEC Club

66K views 371 replies 62 participants last post by  whk0 
#1 ·
Well, as requested by TiGa; a Coolit Systems TEC Club.
Everything about CoolIT systems Products can be discussed in here


Here is an overview of cpu products they have created with TECS:

* Eliminator
Attachment 111837
* Freezone
Attachment 111836
* FreeZone Elite
Attachment 111835
* Boreas
Attachment 111838

CoolitSystems uses the TECS to cool down the coolant which in its turn cools the cpu.

More info will be placed here....stay tuned.

You can add next bbcode to your signature:

Code:

Code:
[CODE]
[URL="http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-tec/505241-coolit-tec-club.html"]CoolIT TEC Club[/URL]
[/CODE]

The official members list:

Boreas:
EvilClocker
WolfBane
windfire
Chadwicksracing
Chiller-Pure

ffrazier1961

Freezone Elite:
XenoMopH (2x)
TiGa (2x)
laurie
reedo
Dejanh (FZE + MCR220-QP)
Malkie (4x)
Intuvati
Chiller-Pure

Kush

Freezone:
lauboi
Barrolde (2x)
Folken
Chiller-Pure

Eliminator:
overclocker333
tardana
Hey Zeus
Chiller-Pure
LL
LL
LL
LL
 
See less See more
5
#2 ·
As XenoMopH said, this is the place to talk about your CoolIT TEC unit or ask questions about them or share your modding logs and some tips on how to get more out of those TECs.

XenoMorpH already installed a Feser 240 rad on his Freezone Elite. He also has another FZE and he will plumb them together soon.

I have changed the waterblock on mine for an Enzotech Luna Rev. A and I will shortly add a 2nd FZE too, as soon as I receive the tubing.

I'm sure many people have a CoolIT TEC but don't really talk about it because these units are sometimes frowned upon by WC or TEC experts.
So, don't be shy and join the CoolIT TEC Club!

TiGa
 
#3 ·
I would like to know what tec modules are used in the Coolit products. I know they are 40mm modules wired in series and draw very little current. I'm thinking they are 12607 units but really have no clue as I don't know how to separate them from the water blocks... if there are even any markings on them. I guess they could be higher voltage or less.. more amps or less... not sure really. I know they are run on 12 volts.... but that is all.

Man... I would really like to know how to separate them from that glue on the waterblocks!

BTW... add me to the club!
 
#4 ·
I think I will stick some 12710's in there and replace the 92mm fan on my Eliminator with a super high cfm 92mm or build a shroud and go with a 120mm fan.... hook those tecs up to a 46 amp server psu in parallel and let them rip... lol... probably will.

I just need to know how to take off the old tecs so I can use them in my 12x40mm 72 amp water cooled hot side tec chiller project.

Stay tuned.
 
#5 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by overclocker333 View Post
I would like to know what tec modules are used in the Coolit products. I know they are 40mm modules wired in series and draw very little current. I'm thinking they are 12607 units but really have no clue as I don't know how to separate them from the water blocks... if there are even any markings on them. I guess they could be higher voltage or less.. more amps or less... not sure really. I know they are run on 12 volts.... but that is all.

Man... I would really like to know how to separate them from that glue on the waterblocks!
They are kind of limited for the total power that they can use for a unit because they use a PCI-E connector for power. The MTEC control board is supposed to be able to feed two FZE drawing each 72W. I don't know the specs of the TEC modules but I know they are severely undervolted so as not to burn itself since it is cooled only by air and not water.

I don't know how to remove them either but some adhesive dissolvent like acetone might do the trick without arming the modules.
I wanted to buy a Boreas heatsink from CoolIT to transplant the TECs from my 2 FZEs onto it since it is slightly bigger in size but they didn't want to sell me one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by overclocker333 View Post
BTW... add me to the club!
Done!

TiGa
 
#6 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by TiGa View Post
XenoMorpH already installed a Feser 240 rad on his Freezone Elite. He also has another FZE and he will plumb them together soon.
I will post some results on various setups I used with the 2 FZE's together.
Stripped my old FZE(.B), took off the pump and the sidepanel with the logo.

Already did:
  1. res->pump->FZE.A->block->FZE.B->res
  2. FZE.B->pump->FZE.A->block->res->FZE.B (
    ...nice temps)

    Going to test:
  3. FZE.B->pump->FZE.A->block->rad->res->FZE.B
  4. res->pump->FZE.A->FZE.B->block->res
  5. res->pump->FZE.A->FZE.B->block->rad->res
#2 had some very nice temps
with not too much TEC load. Also Load temps dropped 5-6C.

I managed to put both of them into a CM690...
case is too small


@overclocker333
Thsi is what I found on the coolitystems forums:
'Use a blow dryer on high heat for about one minute per Tec (or longer if the Tech is really stuck); then using a flat head screw driver gently push the Tec you just heated up from left to right and use more heat as needed. Do not push to far, you will break the link in the Tec bank (little wire that links the Tec's together), just push enough from side to side to get the thermal interface moving and air underneath . The suction effect from the TIM is what makes it difficult to remove the Tec's. Once you break the suction you can gently lift the Tec up, do not force it. The Tec will just pop off. There are 3 Tec's per Bank prewired together; so you have to remove the entire Bank. Take your time with this and use lots of heat if need be, they will come off…"
 
#7 ·
Here are some testing results I did with my FZE's/rad/res
Room temp was about 21C in all tests.
My FZE.A (first Freezone Elite) cooled my OverClocked 940BE @3700MHz w/ 1.465V at load to 50-52C
When I added a read, the load temps dropped with 5-6C to 45-46C.

I ordered another FZE (FZE.B) to test things and to c if I could lower the temps significantly. With both FZE's I tried the next setups and got the results.
  1. res->pump->FZE.A->block->FZE.B->res
    With both units at 100% TEC power it lowered the load temps with 3C-4C, 41C-42C compared to the FZE.A+rad.
  2. FZE.B->pump->FZE.A->block->res->FZE.B
    With both units at 100% TEC power, the load temps were like 40-41C, slightly better than #1.
  3. FZE.B->pump->FZE.A->block->rad->res->FZE.B
    Was a no go, was having a problem filling up the system, so I skipped it.
  4. res->pump->FZE.A->FZE.B->block->res
    I was looking at the setup, and concluded that this setup was quite similar to #2, so temp diff. won't occur I think.
  5. res->pump->FZE.A->FZE.B->block->rad->res
    I was very curious running this setup, as I wanted to c what a rad would do.
    I had a load temp of 39-41C, so it was slightly better than #2
Considering #2 and #4 to be the same, test #5 wasn't much better than #2.

Conclusion
1xFZE: Load temps: 50-52C
1xFZE+rad: Load temps: 45-46C
2xFZE Load temps: 40-41C
2xFZE+rad Load temps: 39-41C

2FZE's in series would sure drop your load temps with 10C.
A rad with 2 FZE's won't do much, as long as the coolant temps are above ambient temp, then the rad would not hurt the coolant temp much, but when it raises it will heat up the coolant, ur tecs have to work harder to cool the coolant.

Not sure yet whether to keep both FZE's in series, or to go back to FZE+rad....going to use this setup for a while to c how it goes.
 
#8 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
Not sure yet whether to keep both FZE's in series, or to go back to FZE+rad....going to use this setup for a while to c how it goes.
Thanks for sharing your results. It was really interesting to see the temps of these different setups.
I'm sure 2 FZEs + rad would be better if you keep full loads for a long time.

I'll soon be adding a full-cover MB block to my FZE setup, maybe MOSFETs too but I'm still not sure about that. I'll post my before and after results. I'm getting some regular 1/4" tubing at the same time so I'll finally be able to plug my 2 units together. CoolIT is kind of slow to process orders.

I'm also looking for Norprene pads to cover the TEC blocks. If I stop two of my fans that are close to the FZE, the coolant temp drops 5C. That's why I would prefer to have them outside the case. I'm trying to have a metal stand fabricated to turn my two FZEs into a Ghetto Boreas.

TiGa
 
#9 ·
Will be curious to c the results, especially with a different cpu-block.
What type of tubes are you going to use, the standard neoprene tubingset from Coolitsystems?....I just bought some Tygon R3603 -8MM ID -11.2MM OD Clear tubing. To fasten them I'm using tie-wraps, works just fine.

My pc is in my livingroom in a pc-cupbard, so having the FZE's outside the case is not possible. I also go to LAN-parties...so having them outside the case is also a no go...

Maybe I will mount them both on the top of my pc where I have mounted the rad. Therefor I have to strip the other FZE too, lol.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
Well I have the Freezone Elite but have not modded it at all.
I used to run a full water cooling loop and did so for over a year.
What appealed to me with the Freezone is how lazy you can be with it. I was spending so much time maintaining my WC setup I was not enjoying overclocking or using the PC.
So far the Elite has been great. I run it at 65% as its a good sound/temp compromise.

Depending on ambient my CPU sits at about 30 - 35 Idle and then will heat up by about 6 - 8c when under full load. I still need to get a new motherboard before I know my temps accurately as the core sensors are not being read correctly by my Crosshair.

I look forward to the TEC discussion here
 
#12 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by TiGa View Post
I ordered this at the same time as the NB/SB block:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=673
It simplifies greatly moving the case or draining the loop cleanly.

I got this tubing too:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...?product_id=46
It's not norprene but it will do the job good enough.

I'll finally be able to plug them together but I'm pretty sure a single stock pump won't be enough anymore.

TiGa
The tube you ordered does not fit over the blue tec blocks. I had those tubes too, but I had to order the 8mm ID tubes.
The Shutoff nozzle sounds like a great idea


@laurie: I hope you get urself a nice board soon, so you can c what the real temps are for the 940. adding a 240rad to the loop would sure drop ur load temps.
 
#13 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
The tube you ordered does not fit over the blue tec blocks. I had those tubes too, but I had to order the 8mm ID tubes.
The Shutoff nozzle sounds like a great idea

1/4" ID is 6mm and 3/8" ID is 10mm.
8mm would be 5/16", I'm not sure where I can find that.
The norprene tubing that CoolIT uses and sells is 1/4" ID 3/8" OD.
It probably needs to be stretched in hot water first. I had no problems with Bitspower 1/4" ID barbs for the CPU block.

TiGa
 
#15 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
You can always try, but there was no way I could fit them...not even with hot water. Note that those Neoprene hoses are way more flexible than the pvc tubes and they expand more.
Just trying to prevent you to buy the wrong tubes like I did....
Thanks, I appreciate the warning. I'll be using the stock Norprene tubing to connect the blue TEC blocks. I'll put the pump and res outside the case so the PVC tubing will be only connected to those parts and the ones inside the case.

TiGa
 
#16 ·
I finally received my D5 pump top and Norprene tubing.

I did some pressure testing on the CoolIT pump and D5 with a flow meter. I connected the pump directly on the PSU so it would get maximum power.

CoolIT pump alone < D5@1
CoolIT pump alone = D5@3 + GPU
CoolIT pump alone = D5@5 + CPU + NB/SB + MOSFETs
CoolIT pump + Coolit CPU = D5@3.5 + CPU + NB/SB + MOSFETs
CoolIT pump + CPU = Drip-drip-trickle-trickle

The CoolIT pump alone has less flow than a D5 at minimum speed.
The CoolIT pump alone has about the same flow as a D5 at speed 3 with GPU block installed.
The CoolIT pump alone has about the same flow as a D5 at speed 11 with CPU, NB/SB and MOSFETs installed.

The CoolIT CPU block is a LOT LESS restrictive than the aftermarket ones I tried. There was barely any water moving with the Enzotech Luna, lower flow than that and the water would stand still.

Still no ideas about flow speed vs temps but the results should be coming in a few days. Whatever they are, I'll probably end up chucking the CoolIT pumps anyway.

If high flow is better than low flow, I'll be changing the D5 for a DDC3.2 w/ XSPC res top as the D5 is maxed out anyway but if low flow is better, the D5 with a very restrictive loop can be matched to provide the same speed as the CoolIT pump or even lower.

TiGa
 
#17 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by TiGa View Post
If high flow is better than low flow, I'll be changing the D5 for a DDC3.2 w/ XSPC res top as the D5 is maxed out anyway but if low flow is better, the D5 with a very restrictive loop can be matched to provide the same speed as the CoolIT pump or even lower.

TiGa
Low flow is never better it never has been and never will be (thats if your excluding any additional heat dumped by the pump to make it move faster)

Here's a link to some testing i did
Flow Rates and Temps
 
#18 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) View Post
Low flow is never better it never has been and never will be (thats if your excluding any additional heat dumped by the pump to make it move faster)

Here's a link to some testing i did
Flow Rates and Temps
I tend more and more to trust the experienced OCN TEC guys over CoolIT's ramblings.

I'm leak testing right now but I'm sure my experimental results will point the same way as yours. I'm almost tempted to reproduce your setup with two pumps.

It's surprising that I had any flow left using the original pump and a restrictive block. Adding the NB/SB and MOSFETs would have probably killed whatever little flow was left.

TiGa
 
#20 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by TiGa View Post
I tend more and more to trust the experienced OCN TEC guys over CoolIT's ramblings.

I'm leak testing right now but I'm sure my experimental results will point the same way as yours. I'm almost tempted to reproduce your setup with two pumps.

It's surprising that I had any flow left using the original pump and a restrictive block. Adding the NB/SB and MOSFETs would have probably killed whatever little flow was left.

TiGa
yeah well they have a vested interest, so it's hard to take what any salesman says at gospel
 
#22 ·
I finally finished building my 2x Freezone Elite setup.


Here are some temps on idle and load after 45 minutes and 2 hours of Prime95 SmallFFT at stock speed (~2.9 with Turbo).
Load temps after 5 minutes would have been cheating (32C)
.

High flow is definitely a winner. I'm switching for a dual pump setup very soon. I will also move the NB/SB and MOSFETs to my GPU loop as they hurt my CPU temps. I also got a roll of Norprene to insulate my res and chiller blocks.

I used 1/4" ID 3/8" OD Norprene tubing, using the clear PVC tubing only for the span between the pump and res to see if it was filled or not. I used a D5 Vario cranked to the max.

In the screenshot:
SYSTIN = NB
TMPIN1 = HD temp
TMPIN2 = Ambient temp
TMPIN3 = Water temp (GPU)

Much better already than a single FZE. It would have been simpler and cheaper to buy 2x Boreas in the first place (2x400$CDN).
Idle temps are impressive but load temps could still be better. More mods to do.


TiGa
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
 
#24 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH View Post
Nice!!
But which D5 pump did you use?
I used a D5 Vario cranked up to 5, the regular D5 is set to 4 so the Vario is a better choice anyway. The MCP355 has more head though.

Even at full load, the coolant temperature is sub-ambient so I won't be adding any rad to my setup. Maybe another FZE or Boreas if I find a cheap used one but there still are a few degrees left to take off those load temps.

The nicest thing is that two units make less noise than one on idle if the coolant temp is set to match ambient.

TiGa
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top