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[Official] OCN Headphones and Earphones Club - Page 2451

post #24501 of 38373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiihokatti View Post


I would recommend to get separate O2 and ODAC if you also have speakers. And then add an audio switcher (or sumthing similar) between the ODAC and O2, to connect both speakers and O2 to the ODAC.

What I was thinking of though, is to get the HD800s and eventually use HD800 + Amp/Dac combo. But in the meantime I want to get the Objective combo early and play around it with my speakers, just because I can. (Before I get the HD800s, I mean.) And I might decide I want another headphone other than HD800s, maybe another brand, so it'll take a while before I commit to actually buying a headphone.

 

I vaguely and probably inaccurately read some info on how plugging a speaker into a high-powered amp might damage the speakers.

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post #24502 of 38373
Yeah, you can blow speakers out by delivering too much power to them. However, just connecting them to an amp obviously isn't going to kill them alone.

If the speakers are passive, pretty much no headphone amp (and certainly not the O2's op amps...) can deliver enough power to really tickle them. Well, for a nearfield setup, a very powerful headphone amplifier, and sensitive speakers, you can get a good sound, but generally you're looking at a few orders of magnitude of power taken between headphones and speakers.

If the speakers are active or you're otherwise connecting a headphone's amp to the amplifier input, that depends on the amplifier gain, volume setting, amplifier power output, speakers, etc. Though if the signal levels from the headphone amp are too high, it could just clip the input of the speaker amp. But O2's max level of 7V is only about 11 dB higher than nominal Redbook 2V output. Unless you have the volume really cranked, 11 dB more isn't going to be what pushes it into the danger zone. That's worst-case scenario too.

In general you can use a headphone amp as a speaker pre-amp (before the speaker power amp). It's just overqualified for that duty. Actually, especially earlier on, people used speaker pre-amps as headphone amps.
Edited by mikeaj - 4/13/14 at 8:06am
post #24503 of 38373
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeaj View Post

Yeah, you can blow speakers out by delivering too much power to them. However, just connecting them to an amp obviously isn't going to kill them alone.

If the speakers are passive, pretty much no headphone amp (and certainly not the O2's op amps...) can deliver enough power to really tickle them. Well, for a nearfield setup, a very powerful headphone amplifier, and sensitive speakers, you can get a good sound, but generally you're looking at a few orders of magnitude of power taken between headphones and speakers.

If the speakers are active or you're otherwise connecting a headphone's amp to the amplifier input, that depends on the amplifier gain, volume setting, amplifier power output, speakers, etc. Though if the signal levels from the headphone amp are too high, it could just clip the input of the speaker amp. But O2's max level of 7V is only about 11 dB higher than nominal Redbook 2V output. Unless you have the volume really cranked, 11 dB more isn't going to be what pushes it into the danger zone. That's worst-case scenario too.

In general you can use a headphone amp as a speaker pre-amp (before the speaker power amp). It's just overqualified for that duty. Actually, especially earlier on, people used speaker pre-amps as headphone amps.

Cool. The Rokits are powered speakers. So basically what's going to happen is, the volume becomes loud, and when it gets too loud that's when it becomes dangerous right? If the volume sounds normal (after adjusting volume knob accordingly) there should be no danger.

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post #24504 of 38373
If your speakers are powered, they do not need an amp.
I do not think the O2 amp is capable of blowing up speakers as it does not provide much power, and you can use it directly as a pre-amp.
You can also just plug your speakers directly into the line out of the ODAC, and adjust the volume using the knob on the speakers ( I assume they have one given that they are powered).
post #24505 of 38373
interesting little D/A converter called the QNKTC AB-1.2 ($170)





pressing the PROG button switches between USB Audio Class 1 (24/44.1, 24/48) and USB Audio Class 2 (24/44.1, 24/48, 24/88.2, 24/96, 24/176.4, 24/192). chip is AKM4430.
    
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post #24506 of 38373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex132 View Post

Would anyone say that the Xonar DX has super weak bass? Because I have to boost the low freq. in my xonar to get anything out of ~<200hz

I also noticed a drop in bass going from onboard to a Xonar DS and DG (the DS was faulty and I couldn't find another one). I suspect it's normal with Xonars. I don't mind it though.
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post #24507 of 38373
Ordered the desktop O2 from Head 'n' Hifi. Looks like the O2 will act as a pre-amp for the speakers when I unplug the headphones.
But this time it would be a pretty good thing, my speakers don't have any volume knob and no way in hell I'm going to buy that overpriced Genelec knob for 80€... Cheapest knob I was able to find was Fostex PC-1ex @ 40€.

I was tempted to order the DIY kit + DIY desktop kit but I'm just too lazy for that kind of stuff...
Edited by Tiihokatti - 4/14/14 at 8:47am
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post #24508 of 38373
Somehow found myself with a AH-D2000 and a TH-600. Will compare.
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post #24509 of 38373
Selling my Schiit Modi. Gonna replace it with either the HifimeDIY Sabre U2 Async DAC or the SPDIF Sabre DAC. Can Async exist via optical? And since it's SPDIF, should I have to worry about switching Bit Depth/Sample rate for different music files?
Quote:
Originally Posted by friend'scatdied View Post

Somehow found myself with a AH-D2000 and a TH-600. Will compare.

Gib plz
Edited by phillyd - 4/14/14 at 12:18pm
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post #24510 of 38373
As far as I know, S/PDIF is just a continuous unidirectional data stream type of protocol, not packetized like USB. Thus there should be no concept of when you schedule data to be sent (here, I mean "schedule" in a loose sense) and modes of operation like some kind of asynchronous mode because it's just data all the time. I guess the speed of the transfer depends on the bit depth / resolution.

If you want to avoid software resampling somewhere, you'd still have to make sure the output sample rate matches the audio data source. That said, it's 2014 and most software and/or OS resamplers do a pretty good job anyway.

I don't know when you'd ever want to change bit depth, though. You always want to select the highest the hardware supports unless somehow that's buggy. It's not like you lose anything by zero padding.
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