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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1023

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
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    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
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  • 5% (108)
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post #10221 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiggins View Post
Hey johnny.dot.exe,

Is this what you are looking for? I made a side panel with the 3 front and 3 back rivet holes plus the fan holes in Solidworks. In my experience machining things, the other rivet holes you will want to place by hand. The more holes you have cut, the more places for error. The holes I placed shouldn't be too off, but any time you try to duplicate a piece you get error.



Let me know what I should add if this helps at all.
Is that similar to a CAD? I don't know anything about that stuff, all I know is the plastic shop said "Bring us a CAD of the panel you want, we'll load it in to the machine which will take care of it."
 
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post #10222 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefez View Post
I usually upgrade something every year. New case this year

The theme here was keep it all black with a single white cathode and a 120 white Zig pushing the rad.( not to flashy..I'm old) I yanked the stock fans for Loons and cut a tad to get the rad internal Forgot to shoot the pics with her fired up
What kind of water cooling you got in there?? D-5 pump, some kind of single bay res, Heatkiller cpu block, no?? I can't even see the rad so I won't try to guess. What's the Norprene, 1/2" x 5/8"?

Oh yeah! Welcome, it's always great to have more people here!!
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post #10223 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Is that similar to a CAD? I don't know anything about that stuff, all I know is the plastic shop said "Bring us a CAD of the panel you want, we'll load it in to the machine which will take care of it."
johnny, they want an Auto CAD or equivelent drawing. It's what's known as "Mechanical Drawing". You put it on a thumb drive and take it to them, they put it on thier machine and the machine can then follow the specs automatically, all they have to do is turn it on and watch it cut. Really saves on labor. I'll check to see if we can "port" that into a CAD program. Oh, CAD is Computer Aided Design.

Edit: johnny, do they want it in 3D or is 2D ok? I'm not sure but I think if you have to enter the thickness it might be 3D.

Edit #2. Also can you do the drawing and measurements? If I do it I'm going to need a lot of info, including angles, distances, hole sizes, where the holes are on the window. All that stuff.
Edited by BriSleep - 6/11/10 at 10:43pm
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post #10224 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefez View Post
I usually upgrade something every year. New case this year

The theme here was keep it all black with a single white cathode and a 120 white Zig pushing the rad.( not to flashy..I'm old) I yanked the stock fans for Loons and cut a tad to get the rad internal Forgot to shoot the pics with her fired up
I love it, I want it
How does that 120mm rad fair, I wonder how a WC setup similar to yours holds against a H50 ?

(also where are the ground wires, all I see is red ?)
    
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post #10225 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
johnny, they want an Auto CAD or equivelent drawing. It's what's known as "Mechanical Drawing". You put it on a thumb drive and take it to them, they put it on thier machine and the machine can then follow the specs automatically, all they have to do is turn it on and watch it cut. Really saves on labor. I'll check to see if we can "port" that into a CAD program. Oh, CAD is Computer Aided Design.

Edit: johnny, do they want it in 3D or is 2D ok? I'm not sure but I think if you have to enter the thickness it might be 3D.

Edit #2. Also can you do the drawing and measurements? If I do it I'm going to need a lot of info, including angles, distances, hole sizes, where the holes are on the window. All that stuff.
The side panel window I want done is the same as the picture that the above poster made with his design software. The only difference is he only has 6 of the 18-ish rivet holes in there, for reasons he stated above. Since a plastic company will be doing this on a CNC style machine, I'd rather ALL the rivet holes be there...if it breaks, they start over at no cost to me. This will be acrylic since done on a machine, so I don't want to do any drilling or cutting myself due to high risk of breakage.

Unfortunately I have no way to make all those measurements myself, nor can I draw at all.

Best way I think is to trace the storm scout window, mark all the rivet holes and fan screw holes, draw a cross section for each set of fan screws...basically a big X where each fan would be and have the lines of the X all end at a screw hole...the middle point of each X is where the center of the 4.5" hole will be. The only real change being made is using holes instead of vents, since that vent design is garbage.

Also, the window that comes with the scout is about 1/8" thick, so that's the thickness I'll go with on the new panel. I don't think that needs to be included in the CAD file...but I'm not sure, they didn't clarify and I can't have an answer on that one until sometime tomorrow when I get around to calling them.
 
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post #10226 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiggins View Post
Hey johnny.dot.exe,

Is this what you are looking for? I made a side panel with the 3 front and 3 back rivet holes plus the fan holes in Solidworks. In my experience machining things, the other rivet holes you will want to place by hand. The more holes you have cut, the more places for error. The holes I placed shouldn't be too off, but any time you try to duplicate a piece you get error.



Let me know what I should add if this helps at all.
Thats perfect, wish I had it when I got my window cut +rep

If you are getting the window done on a cnc machine, then they should be able to route/bevel the edge in a similar fashion to the scout window. That way it will sit flush with the side panel. I would also leave out the mounting holes and rather drill them after aligning them to the physical panel.
    
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post #10227 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
The side panel window I want done is the same as the picture that the above poster made with his design software. The only difference is he only has 6 of the 18-ish rivet holes in there, for reasons he stated above. Since a plastic company will be doing this on a CNC style machine, I'd rather ALL the rivet holes be there...if it breaks, they start over at no cost to me. This will be acrylic since done on a machine, so I don't want to do any drilling or cutting myself due to high risk of breakage.

Unfortunately I have no way to make all those measurements myself, nor can I draw at all.
That's just a jpeg of the actual CAD file. I have the actual .SLDPRT (Solidworks Part File) on my computer but a jpeg is easier to show.

I can make a machinists drawing of it of varying levels of detail depending on what they want. I know when I get stuff done on the waterjet cutter the only thing needed is overall length/height and material. The machine automatically reads pathing from the drawing/.SLDPRT (Solidworks Part File).

Example:


Personally I've machined acrylic a bunch of times without cracking. You just need to start with a small bit (they make special starting bits for drill presses and mills). There is really no good way to measure out the other rivet holes with any certainty. My advice would be to get it cut with the other rivet holes left out then mark them by hand with a sharpie and then bring it to a local shop and ask them to drill the holes if you don't have the equipment. If you have wrongly placed holes cut with the CNC then its useless to you but the shop delivered what you asked for so they are done with the job.

BTW, the fan holes are all set. They are 4.5 inch and centered in the screws. That was easy to measure.

Hope that all made sense. Let me know what the shop says next time you talk to them. Sorry for the wall of text everyone.

Edit 1: @BriSleep When this is all set and done I'll try to get a drawing up with every minute measurement for do-it-yourselfers. It's not needed for CNC, but I'll make one as If I was milling the piece myself (Although I wouldn't dare ).
Edited by Shiggins - 6/11/10 at 11:53pm
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post #10228 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiggins View Post
That's just a jpeg of the actual CAD file. I have the actual .SLDPRT (Solidworks Part File) on my computer but a jpeg is easier to show.

I can make a machinists drawing of it of varying levels of detail depending on what they want. I know when I get stuff done on the waterjet cutter the only thing needed is overall length/height and material. The machine automatically reads pathing from the drawing/.SLDPRT (Solidworks Part File).

Example:


Personally I've machined acrylic a bunch of times without cracking. You just need to start with a small bit (they make special starting bits for drill presses and mills). There is really no good way to measure out the other rivet holes with any certainty. My advice would be to get it cut with the other rivet holes left out then mark them by hand with a sharpie and then bring it to a local shop and ask them to drill the holes if you don't have the equipment. If you have wrongly placed holes cut with the CNC then its useless to you but the shop delivered what you asked for so they are done with the job.

BTW, the fan holes are all set. They are 4.5 inch and centered in the screws. That was easy to measure.

Hope that all made sense. Let me know what the shop says next time you talk to them. Sorry for the wall of text everyone.
Thanks for the info. I'll tell them what you have...specifically the file type/extension, and find out exactly what they need in the file. Will PM you tomorrow sometime.
 
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post #10229 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
The side panel window I want done is the same as the picture that the above poster made with his design software. The only difference is he only has 6 of the 18-ish rivet holes in there, for reasons he stated above. Since a plastic company will be doing this on a CNC style machine, I'd rather ALL the rivet holes be there...if it breaks, they start over at no cost to me. This will be acrylic since done on a machine, so I don't want to do any drilling or cutting myself due to high risk of breakage.

Unfortunately I have no way to make all those measurements myself, nor can I draw at all.

Best way I think is to trace the storm scout window, mark all the rivet holes and fan screw holes, draw a cross section for each set of fan screws...basically a big X where each fan would be and have the lines of the X all end at a screw hole...the middle point of each X is where the center of the 4.5" hole will be. The only real change being made is using holes instead of vents, since that vent design is garbage.

Also, the window that comes with the scout is about 1/8" thick, so that's the thickness I'll go with on the new panel. I don't think that needs to be included in the CAD file...but I'm not sure, they didn't clarify and I can't have an answer on that one until sometime tomorrow when I get around to calling them.
Ok johnny, this is what I got and this is what I can do. I'm going to be doing a window too, in the very near future. So, if you help me out, I'll give you and the CMSSC a CAD drawing that we can all use or adjust to fit what we're doing.

@ Y'all. Hey guys, help out a little here this will benefit us all and future members too.
I have this drawing that Enigma posted a while ago: Attachment 159627
This should be "Actual Size", meaning if you open it to 100% it should be actual size, so, you couldn't view it unless you're on a 32" monitor or HDTV. If you have a printer that will print this as one picture with overlapping edges you'll have a full size Template. Interesting I just noticed it says TechPowerUp on the bottom.

Now, what I need from you or anyone is:
Read this totally then figure out these distances. I need what is known as a 123 measurement, this creates a square on the image. It's actually going to be a triangle but it's used to make things square.
So, the left side is the straight edge, measure a distance along that side, not the whole thing because we just need a combo, that measurement is 1. Then at the top of that measurement you make a line 90 degrees to it, that measurement is 2. Then, the length of the line from the end of 2 back to the bottom of 1 should equal the distance of 1+2.

Example: I make a line 3" from the top of the straight part of the left side going down, the next line which is 2 goes from the top of line one out at 90degrees and that line is 4". This means that when you measure from the end of line 2 back to the bottom of line 1 the distance is the length of 1 & 2, in this case 5". Got it?? That's why it's called 1, 2, 3. If the first is 1" and the second is 2" then the third has to be 3", if it's not, the CAD won't come out right.

Next, after you have 1,2,3, measure the exact distance from the top of line 1 to the other side of the window where the curve starts. Please do this in milimeters, it will be more exact. You can even do another 1,2,3 there, backwards to make sure they're both square.

Get the picture? This is how you extend a steel girder bridge across a gap, if 1,2,3 aren't right, the bridge falls into the gap and you loose two ranks and 3 months pay!

After you have 1,2,3 on the left and the distance to the other side you will then have an exact line across the window. This is line 4.

Next, now that there's an exact and straight line across the window, you can drop a center line through where the fans go. It will be exactly 90 degrees to the top line, which is 2. I need to know the distance of that line from line 1 also in milimeters please. This line is line 5.

Finally, I need to know how far apart fan 1 and 2 are. If you just want 2, 120mm fans put together in the center of line 5 then I can do that measurement on my own.

If you guys can get me these measurements I can plug it all into a free CAD program, it will calculate the angled parts on it's own then I can measure the rivets and screw holes by myself. It will take a while for the drawing to come out right but when it's done it will be final and available to everyone to download and use in the future. Then, if you want to space you fan holes differently it's pretty easy to just give the shop a measurement and it will do a "natural drift" which moves the centers of the XX's that are the fan motor pins and the holes and all will move by themselves. I'm going to make the thickness 3mm, because that's what Kev_b used on his window and it's the closest you can get to 1/8". Unless you guys want it thicker.

@ Shiggins. Dang man, see what you've gone and done while I was telling you guys how to do it! So, can you get me the 1,2,3 & 4 in milimeters, and convert everything you've measured into mm's also? If you can do that then I should be able to CAD it in about 8 hours or 3 days in my time (narcolepsy time).

Edit: Corrected the line numbers, there are 5.
Edit 2: Shiggins snagged me, corrected the formula.

Edited by BriSleep - 6/12/10 at 3:34am
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post #10230 of 28613
Wow. That's all I have to say. I can tell I'm a still just a student for a reason.

I started mine off of a datum at one of the center rivet holes, then worked from there as if I was milling the piece. I made one half and then mirrored in Solidworks. That's how I have faith in most measurements, but not in adding any new rivets. I'll have to reread your method when its not three am. Just a question, is the 7" supposed to be a 5" (3,4,5 triangle), or am I visualizing this wrong?

In terms of your idea, I wish I was still at school where I have a poster printer at my disposal. Also, watch out with the image that was posted earlier as it is a simplified version of the side panel and neglects a large chunk out of the left side.
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i7-930 3.6GHz @1.18V Gigabyte X58A-UD3R 5770 1GB Vapor X G.SKILL 12GB 8-8-8-22 
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Pride
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i7-930 3.6GHz @1.18V Gigabyte X58A-UD3R 5770 1GB Vapor X G.SKILL 12GB 8-8-8-22 
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1TB Samsung F3 Windows 7 x64 Ultimate OCZ 600W Modular Cooler Master Storm Scout 
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