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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1042

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (929)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1863 Total Votes  
post #10411 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwpjr View Post
@Striker: I'm not entirely sure this thread has a set topic, only a common theme. Excellent taste in music by the way. I will probably go with the TechFlex CC on the next build. I'm not patient enough to wait for the overseas shipping.
lol your right at this point but w/e

i LOVE my music... and Jina got those for me. "The Wall" is a first run (like a first edition book) that i had been looking for for a few years as im a colector of LPs and the other 2 are just INCREDIBLE bands if you like music that is more complex than 99.999% of the junk played on the radio

YouTube- DREAM THEATER - Forsaken one of the better songs on that album (and shorter lol)i really think Gen E will like the guitar from these guys. some of their riffs are just good.
YouTube- Dream Theater - Panic Attack this one more of you may have heard. as its in one of those guitar hero like games (i don't know which one as i never played them)

and YouTube- Porcupine Tree - Fear of a Blank Planet
look up Porcupine Trees Sleep Together if you want to also. its another killer track

Porcupine Tree is a COMPLETELY different band than Dream Theater but they are equally complex and musically deep with many layers of individual parts of each track



and i was going to use the Furryletters stuff my self but i wanted to see how the MDPC stuff actually compared and i had time to waste on other stuff and after my math i found that it would result in roughly the same amount of money the way i was going to do it . im honestly impressed with it


EDIT: and Rocker would probably like Dream Theater too if he hasn't heard them before
Edited by Striker36 - 6/16/10 at 7:17pm
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post #10412 of 28613
@ Y'all, picked me up one of these today, it folds to about 4" thick, includes the saw guide and two sliding clamps: http://www.keter.com/products/foldin.../#measurements

@ Enigma. M-16 or AR-15?? Do they allow fully auto weapons in 'Bama? Have one here and spend 5 years in state prison.

@ mr-Charles. Slap my forehead and call me Homer because I didn't even compare old fan to new fan and think I could cut out the whole corner. Then, this fan is double the power of the old one so maybe the corners are that way for a reason?

@ Rockr. Wasn't it DefecT? If it was he'll probably be around later tonight. Yours looks great though. Wondering about the non standard placement of the screws to hold them in though, there is so much that doesn't fit in those brackets, a lot of Haf owners just chuck 'em.

@Striker. No, I don't see any artifacts in that black space, even on 400% enlargement. Maybe your card or monitor is coloring pixels? If you're going to edit photos you need and IPS monitor, even a cheapy is better than a TN monitor. Oh, love the garage, gotta figure how I'm going to do my wall.

@ johnny. I really think people worry too much about temps. I mean, high temps are one thing, if anything gets over 95c under Stress, no just Load, then it is too hot. If the ambient air is anything over 73f then system temps will increase. In the winter my cpu is a cool 24-27c but since it's warmed up it runs 30-37c. Those kind of temps have absolutely no effect on chips, they can run that way 24/7 for 10 years or more. If you're playing game and your temps, cpu or gpu get up to 95c and stay there, then you have a problem.

Also, the H50 isn't water, it's water and Glycol, Glycol is to prevent freezing, it doesn't help much with dispersing heat. Pure de-mineralized, distilled water has proven to be the best cooling medium since the first guy got the idea to cool his CPU with his cars heater core.

Sure you can do something, you can do what Rockr said to start, if you're not satisfied with that result you can use stronger fans and further than that you can use Shrouds. Here's a setup courtesy of our own mr-Charles: Attachment 160331

@ gwpjr. This applies to anyone running an OverClocked anything! You NEVER flash a bios on >any device< while the device is overclocked. Re-set everything in your system to "Load Defaults", then flash the bios. This also applies to Raid. If anything is in Raid 1, 0 or JBSOD, take it out while flashing a bios. Even if you're pluggin in a video card, you're supposed to "Load Defaults", install, boot to bios, make sure it says "Load Defaults" again, then let it start, if you had Raid, it won't go into Windows, it doesn't matter, you're letting the bios set it's parameters. Then shut down again, wait at least 90 seconds, re-load your old settings then let it boot. On an Evga mobo, it will double start then load, Windows often takes a long time after this so you wait about triple your regular load time, if it's not responding after that, you probably need to go to "Safe Mode" by hitting F8 while it's booting, clean out all your old drivers and re-load them.

I've done a lot of system testing in my time and as advanced as things get, you still need to set things back to Default when you make a change.

@ You guys. With the exception of Enigma and Rockr, I think of you like my sons. So, you know what special day is coming up? Fathers Day. So when you're wondering what to get the old guy with Cataracts, fading hearing, Narcolepsy and other ailments, I just want you to consider this: http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/accessories/8a0f/
There are plenty of other sweet goodies here, so feel free to be creative!


Gotta go rest now guys, it's been a long month. One vid card DOA, one DEFECTIVE, exchanges to 2 different companies, lots and lots of testing. Man I'm sick of watching the Crysis, Pripyat and Heaven benchmarks!

Then this absolute insanity about this house we're getting. If they would have just listened to me when I said "what you're asking is Illegal", they would have spared everyone 6 weeks of nightmares and bickering. To come out in the end and say: "Ummm, gee, we're sorry, what we were trying to do IS Illegal because you're getting a VA loan", is pretty useless when they've already subjected us to the STRESSSSSSS!!! I told them, my nervous system isn't like a normal persons, if this falls through after 4 months of hunting and almost 6 months of BS, then I'll just live out my days in this trailer alone! So now, they're running like Jack Rabbits trying to get everything done in 10 days!! HA!!!!! You know how tempted I am to wait till the end then refuse to "Sign Zee Papers"??

Just letting you know I might not even look at the board tomorrow.

Edited by BriSleep - 6/16/10 at 8:44pm
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post #10413 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post

@ Rockr. Wasn't it DefecT? If it was he'll probably be around later tonight. Yours looks great though. Wondering about the non standard placement of the screws to hold them in though, there is so much that doesn't fit in those brackets, a lot of Haf owners just chuck 'em.
Thanks Bri. On the Scout theres actual screw slots on the back side of the drive bay, so it worked out good.
    
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post #10414 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockr69 View Post
Thanks Bri. On the Scout theres actual screw slots on the back side of the drive bay, so it worked out good.
Yeah, same on the Haf. That's why we chuck these quick release things. On the Haf they're actually made of 7 parts including 2 springs, if you're not carefull when you take them off, everything everywhere. They took the idea from click pens and applied it to the drive locks. One click the pins go through, second click the pins come out but the alignment has to be perfect!

Oh, didn't even realize we're on a new page.
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post #10415 of 28613
Thread Starter 
OK its been awhile but I have my Scout built and here some pics. I was really unhappy with window. It came all scratched up and didn't have time to mess with it so I used it. I think I might try some of that stuff for headlights on it.











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post #10416 of 28613
Just moved my H50 radiator to a new location in my case.

Before it was...

<rad | fan | front of case<

Now it is...

<rear of case | rad | fan<

The < symbols are direction of airflow.


In the first setup, this was putting fresh air through the rad...but the rad was heating that air up before it blew across my RAM and CPU/H50 pump on its way to the rear and top exhaust fans. I believe this was the reason why my CPU idle was 38c.

Now I have the rad in the back of the case, sandwiched between the case and an R4. This isn't giving the rad the same cool air it was before, but having two intake R4s on the front and two intake R4s on the side all pulling in fresh filtered air is helping that rad stay nice and cool.

I probably should have made a note of the inner case temp before and after this modification to verify that this problem was true and has been resolved with the new rad location...but my CPU is now idling at 35c, and I don't believe the ambient room temp has dropped at all.

I also took all the spare PSU wiring from behind the PSU and below my HDD, coiled it all up with a zip-tie, and hid them on top of the HDD. Now the front lower intake fan pushes air past/under the HDD, through the cage towards the PSU. Before doing this, that intake air was hitting a big mess of cables, so there should be a decent drop in HDD temp now.

Edit : Does anyone sell a 120mm fan mounting bracket that fits in the 5.25" bay of the scout without modification? Currently I'm using 2 of the 3 block-off plates as a way to mount the fan below my optical drive, and this cuts down on that intake airflow a bit. I'd much rather have the fan properly mounted in there.

Edit 2 : CPU idle temp is back up to 37c, peaks out at 51-52c under 100% load with Orthos, so it doesn't look like moving the radiator made much difference. Oh well, I guess I can live with those numbers.
Edited by johnny.dot.exe - 6/16/10 at 9:47pm
 
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post #10417 of 28613
If it is one thing I do not like about the Scout is the case sides, The shape of the window is such a drag when showing the components off imo, So I will be ordering a Sheet of Styrene plastic to make my case side panels.

I do a lot of 1/25 model truck building, so working with plastic is best for me, rather than metal. With a secure metal straight edge, and a sharp scribe, you can snap cut styrene panels with ease, You can weld styrene together using a chemical solvent also. I got some styrene strips here that will act as the lip that holds the case side flush to the case itself. This is just thinking out loud But I will try it and document it.

I got my new crosshair IV and am glued onto the red white and black aesthetics. I got a order of MDPC sleeve and screws coming too, H50 and Corsair memory 2 fan cooler (for looks more than anything) Some G skill Flare's and a lamptron fc6 controller

Here is where Im thinking of getting the styrene.. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...2883&catid=715

Gonna try out some sign shops also


If the plan works.. I can get a nice flat side panel, with a flush rectangular window right over the motherboard area, so it can hide the hard drive bays and PSU area. (falsefloor will be made also)
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post #10418 of 28613
Sound really interesting Meatloaf.. Please share with us what you do..
    
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post #10419 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
OK its been awhile but I have my Scout built and here some pics. I was really unhappy with window. It came all scratched up and didn't have time to mess with it so I used it. I think I might try some of that stuff for headlights on it.












Thats a pretty build man.. So you used Rivets on your side window.. Interesting..
    
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post #10420 of 28613
Bri...
Quote:
@ Enigma. M-16 or AR-15?? Do they allow fully auto weapons in 'Bama? Have one here and spend 5 years in state prison.
Whats the diff.. All you have to do is shave the Shear Pin a little and you get full auto.. But it can be a Magazine emptier if you shave it too much..
    
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