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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1333

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1861 Total Votes  
post #13321 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockr69 View Post
Whadda you guys think about the red stripes or should I go back to black?

Actually in my viewpoint I like them. It matches the Memory stick. Maybe if they were closer together.. But I like them.
    
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post #13322 of 28613
Okay.. Hacktard...

Take out your window.. those plastic rivets are easy.

Then go to Lowe's and pick you out a piece of 15x15 inch acrylic or larger.

Then Trace the old window with a black marker.

Then cut the new window with a dremel or rotory tool. Go Slow.

Then mark your Holes for mounting and then drill very slowly or the Acrylic will crack. Try to use a new Drill bit.


Window Removal:

Enigma8750:
Quote:
The plastic rivets are slightly mushroomed at the end. You could possibly push them out from the back to front and then once 1/2 of them are out You would be able to just pull the rest out by pulling slightly on the windows.
If your careful you might be able to save the rivets for the next window but I would bet that at least one would break.
PS. IF you want to drill them out that will work but drill from the front to the back. and only drill enough to remove the head and then stop. But it should not be nessesary. Actually a very small pair of needle nose pliers would do the trick.

K10: Answer. I took out some of my plastic "rivets" last night. They were easy to take out and put back in. I actually don't think you'd break em if you took em out but maybe I was just too gentle.
Seven9st surfer:
Quote:
Quote:
seven9st surfer: DKev Window Replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkev View Post
Ok, so I replaced the stock window. And in the process ended up cracking it. Sooo, this time I bought plexi that is twice as thick and tried again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seven9st surfer View Post
alright, for anyone who's interested, here is the quick log for my window mod.

First off, here's the back of the plastic rivets holding the window on



They were incredibly easy to remove and replace. You just have to push down the center, and it de-mushrooms, and pops right out. I used a screwdriver



Then I traced out the pattern on 1/8" acrylic from Home Depot


Gotta be careful to drill slowly. I got going a bit fast, and here's the result. Luckily, its small enough to where the lip of the window hides most of the crack



Enigma8750:
Quote:
I want one of those break away fan connector on the side of that thermaltake. I bet you could buy it in their accessories thread on their site. I also Thought the same thing Path. They stole from the 560, the Storm Sniper and the Storm Scout and I love the fact that you can change the LED colors on the fly. the cable routing clips were also really neato. But If I bought that case I would have to mod it. Its too plain and lacks the charisma that the Storm has.. But that is my opinion.

Also Surfer, You can put all the pictures you want on this thread. That is what it is for. Thank for the intel on the new window and I like the clear. I thought about it. You are in Florida. I know there is a tint shop somewhere in town. Take out your window and clean it by hand with Dawn Dish washing liquid and water until all the dust is gone and then take it over to one of the tint shops in the area. Tell him you are entering the case in a competition and you may get a tinting for free if you say that you will put his name on your Thank you list. There is a Gold tint that used to be really popular but no one asks for it anymore. Tell him you want that.. Last time I did that the guy gave me 6 feet of it for free and it works great. I am still using it.
Tricks and Cool Tips

PhotoMoo says:
Quote:

Cover up your privates. Great idea for hiding your drives and PSU

Kegger
Quote:
reveals another coverup.
Quote:
Kevb Shows us the Classy Glassy Cover UP


Baldo 1013 used a part off an old VCR to cover the hard drives.



Then put the window on and replace the Factory Rivets back into the case to hold it and your done.
Edited by Enigma8750 - 10/5/10 at 10:07am
    
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post #13323 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacktard View Post
Which is the best cooler for this case? That will fit even if you have the two fans on the side panel, and not so very expensive one
I you insist on using the top side panel fan you are limited to an H50 or one of the coolers that blows DOWN on the motherboard. You will NOT be able to fit a tower type cooler with the side panel fan in place, and even if you do the side panel fan will more than likely INCREASE temps. Get a good tower type heatsink and run WITHOUT the top side fan for optimal performance. The lower side panel fan might make a difference depending on your display cards.

One of the best "bang for your buck" heatsinks is the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with a second Blademaster fan added in a push pull setup. The is about $29 shipped and the second Blademaster from SVC is $7 + shipping.
http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.htm

Add the 4pin PWM Y adapter from SVC for $3 shipped and your motherboard can control both fans via PWM. One of the nice things about this setup is if you are short of funds you can get the 212+ at first and use that then add the second fan and PWM Y adapter later as funds allow. You probably won't find anything better for under $30.
Edited by PapaSmurf - 9/27/10 at 4:17pm
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post #13324 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haleskater View Post
i had this prob and didnt know which way to go but if u think about it, if ur on load or running prime95 do u really want all that hot air coming in onto ur components and ram?

i decided it was best to put it as exaust on the rear u will see in my posts how ive modded mine.

i will never think twice about exaust or intake on the H50 on this case again.

EDIT: ive even got my top fan as intake because i have 2x scythe kraze 3000rpm push/pull on my H50 so there the only exaust i have.

if im going to modding my side panel to clear acrylic what mm thick should i use?
same. I've got mine on exhaust, with my top fan exhausting as well...2 side fans and a front keep the intake portion rounded out, and I have the airflow adjusted so there's more exhaust cfm than there is intake.
post #13325 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
I you insist on using the top side panel fan you are limited to an H50 or one of the coolers that blows DOWN on the motherboard. You will NOT be able to fit a tower type cooler with the side panel fan in place, and even if you do the side panel fan will more than likely INCREASE temps. Get a good tower type heatsink and run WITHOUT the top side fan for optimal performance. The lower side panel fan might make a difference depending on your display cards.

One of the best "bang for your buck" heatsinks is the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with a second Blademaster fan added in a push pull setup. The 212+ from Amazon is about $29 shipped and the second Blademaster from SVC is $7 + shipping. Add the 4pin PWM Y adapter from SVC for $3 shipped and your motherboard can control both fans via PWM. One of the nice things about this setup is if you are short of funds you can get the 212+ at first and use that then add the second fan and PWM Y adapter later as funds allow. You probably won't find anything better for under $30.
I completely concur.
    
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post #13326 of 28613
Update 26 September

Havent been on for a little while as hadn't been well, but I have finished the Installation of Debbie's PC Upgrade. (for her Birthday)

Of course all mounted into Her CM - Storm Scout

I must say that I'm certainly glad that is over and finished as there were a few headaches, and problems along the way, this would have to of been one of the most cantankerous, frustrating Builds I have ever done!

Hardware
CPU - E8400 3.0Ghz (OC'd @3.60Ghz)
GPU - MSI-GTS 250 !GB Twin Frozr

New -Mobo - GA-EP45-UD3P
New -PSU - HX-520W
New -Logitech LX8 Lazer Cordless Mouse
New - Liteon Lightscribe DVD-RW

Installing GA_EP45-UD3P










Installing CoolIT VANTAGE ALC



Installing Win 7 Pro x64 (Take One)



Now this is where all the Fun and Frustration, started, first it off it sinstalled half of Win7 then shut down, and wouldnt boot back up, :banghead: :banghead:

Then when I finally was able to get back into BIOS, got erros about checksum and something else was to quick didnt get to see the second error,

So I Re-flashed the BIOS with new one, reboot and redo the BIOS settings and go for Take TWO of installing Win7

Then the same as before only didnt get even as far, but this time I saw the error, was to do with the Liteon DVD-RW Drive, So ripped it out and a Quick trip down the street when PC Shop Opened to take it back and get replaced with another.

Got New Liteon DVD-RW Drive installed, and system refuses to even boot,,,,, :banghead: :banghead:
So I too DVD Drive out ,, grabbed mine from my Desk plugged into e-sata port, by this time the Wife is getting a little pissed off, and I dont blame her.

So Take Three installing Win 7



Now that went all OK, so after getting all the windows updates ect, time for a little OC to see how this Mobo performs,

3.60 Ghz all ok,,,, 4.0 Ghz crashed , doesnt want o boot goes into continuous reboot cycle, and noticed PSU was making clicking sound, so pulled that one out grabbed my trusty Corsair HX-520 from The Sled PC, and installed into this one, reboot all OK



Didnt get pic of rear cable management after replaced with HX-520 as batteries on Camera died, but was much better being modular!

I have also grabbed the Liteon Lightscribe DVD-RW from my Office PC installed the into her PC and all working well, then put her new Liteon DVD-RW into the Office PC and it works OK in that PC, so guess the EP45-UD3P Mobo didnt like it for some unknown reason

Now the Wife still a bit pissed with me , I have her PC all up and Running @ 3.60Ghz

Starting to install her Programs ect, all still well and Wife Happy again

Temps CPU @ 3.6Ghz - 40C Vantage coolant Temp 25.4C
Temps GPU 32C & 40C Load

Thank God that's Over and done!!!!!
    
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post #13327 of 28613
Try plugging the optical drives into the purple JMicron ports with AHCI disabled on them. That tends to work better on that board from my experience.
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Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
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80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
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442
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Q6600
(14 items)
 
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(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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CoolingOSMonitorPower
Stock pfsense Acer H233H Antec EarthWatts 430 
CaseAudio
custom onboard 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
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post #13328 of 28613
Ok Scouts. I have some more HDD covers



What they look like in the Scout,



I'm probably gonna make a false floor with the left over mesh material so that can be a set. Or I can make two more HDD covers. If you've liked what you've seen PM me for details.

This is not final paint I just threw some on for photo shoot. Final paint will be perfect.

EDIT I went ahead and made the false floor. Will post pic when paint is dry

EDIT#2 Pics of HDD covers/false floors;




Again PM me if you want in on this action

EDIT#3 The mesh set has been sold.
Edited by Rockr69 - 9/29/10 at 5:05pm
    
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post #13329 of 28613
Those are sweet covers Rockr.
I'm actually looking to pick up a couple 12x12x1/32" thick carbon fibre sheets and finagle a set of similar covers.
post #13330 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoloid View Post
Those are sweet covers Rockr.
I'm actually looking to pick up a couple 12x12x1/32" thick carbon fibre sheets and finagle a set of similar covers.
Carbon fibre would be HOT!
    
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