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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1737

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1861 Total Votes  
post #17361 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc75 View Post
I used to run a decent coolant rig on my original Athlon64 4000 build, though had used a budget Thermaltake Big Water system... it had used a greenish fluid and yes it used to gunk up. Sometimes I would try to clean out the system to change the fluid and I would find all these little .. like.. rock things, tiny rock particles.. that seemed to have formed and built up. No matter how hard I tried to keep it cleaned out, more would build up, and eventually it just kinda ruined some of the parts, especially the reservoir tank.

I want back to air cooling after that and didn't give Liquid another thought until Corsair came out with the H50... and started pondering over modding mine to put in clear tubs instead of the covered black tubes it has now; and maybe add in a small reservoir... who knows, maybe someday!
I wouldn't mess with it man, they use a glycol mix and you'll never get it back to that. The best you can do is make it distilled water with either biocide or silver coil in it. I run a silver coil, just started taking it apart after almost a year, there was a slight lemony smell to it but no feel or smell of algae! Silver should be some kind of standard for water cooling but to each his own, some people thing you have to use a chemical.

@ Telnets: Yep, if it's free, I'd have probably used it too. I just like my 99cent per gallon distilled, gotta use it for the wifes oxygen anyway, so it doesn't hurt to grab a baster full. Well, glad the grass was high. Your demon dogs ever do any hunting? Brutus is nuts about anything that moves & one night at the trailer a skunk wandered into the yard, so long Mr Skunk! My boys protect thier mama good!


Hey Guys!! I gotta go, past time for my nighty pills & I been a busy guy today. Got an RMA request for my mobo & got a new modem from Charter to go with our new router. Gotta hook this puppy up to see what it can do!!
Edited by BriSleep - 1/20/11 at 10:50pm
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post #17362 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
I wouldn't mess with it man, they use a glycol mix and you'll never get it back to that.
Yea thats what I had read over on the H50/H70 Club thread.

There is also the matter of, limited funds... and, I would rather put said funds elsewhere in the System. Might bump up the Ram to 8gb at some point, and still interested in getting replacement fans for the front...and maybe replace the plexi window to one that doesn't have any side vents so I can take out my noisy side fans.
     
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post #17363 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Telnets View Post
Brisleep - Grass was high i think hehe.. Thanks for the comments!

And yes, its PC-Ice coolant.. I know i can just use distilled and some additives.. but it was thrown into the package for me so i figured why not use it

CJC - I was thinking the same thing about my system. Im not giving away my h70 just encase this one becomes too much of a maintenance headache. I mean i dont see how it can, unless the coolant gets dirty.. its sealed just like the h70, theres just more too it.. but if im finding that i have to take everything out and give it a wash down every 3 months or something, forget it.. Ill sell the loop somewhere and go back to my h70.

However, i was pondering this Rad


Since it has more ports then just the in/out, then you could literally fill it up, run the h70, shake the rad, and keep adding until its full then close it up for good and you wouldnt need a res then.

slap on some 1/4" tubing and barbs, and walla!
Hey Telnet!!
I don't know, a newcomer to rad land & having an unusual configuration. I'd really have to see reviews first. You'd be much better with a dual Swiftech or a Black Ice Pro II, the one Striker has really does the job!
Just a thought.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc75 View Post
Yea thats what I had read over on the H50/H70 Club thread.

There is also the matter of, limited funds... and, I would rather put said funds elsewhere in the System. Might bump up the Ram to 8gb at some point, and still interested in getting replacement fans for the front...and maybe replace the plexi window to one that doesn't have any side vents so I can take out my noisy side fans.
Yeah, I'd go more powerful fans, front & top, maybe more ram, if you do photo editing or gaming. I'm going to be making a plexi window as soon as it warms up a bit here for Mindy's Scout, it will be it's own thread, linked back here!
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post #17364 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
Ok, this is officially:
A Word about Video Card Numbering systems.
Subtitled: How you guys (and gals Aura & Izzy) are getting duped by the Video Card Numbering system.

Oh, for those of you that have been here a while, my speciality is video cards, it always has been, for those of you that are new here, go back about 17 words and read again.

Ok, this isn't new. With the introduction of Nvidia's 260 series came some of the first dupes. They were releasing 260 numbered cards that were not even close to the 260 cores that they were supposed to have. Some groups of owners tried to make them accountable for these dupes and tried to force them (Nvidia) to change the numbering system & send out the correct cards for the correct core numbers.

In fact, it didn't even have to be the number but the letter, a GTS card wasn't the same as a GTX card even though it was hard to tell the difference from the box.

Now, the DX-11 cards come out. ATI (AMD), has led the pack the whole way with thier ground breaking 5xxx series of cards, it was pretty easy to tell your 5870 was better than your friends 5850 because after all a 70 is bigger than a 50.

Then along comes Nvidia again, the new, long awaited Fermi cards are HOT, not just on the market but literally the chips run upwards of 95c! Unless you have been around for a while & know there are many things you can do like running MSI afterburner & adding a custom cooling profile, running Evga Precision and also a custom cooling profile. Or you could change the TIM and get HF brackets & HF backplates, or go to the extreme & get watercooled.

So, when the 480 was released, it was easy to figure out, it had 480 Cuda cores, the 470 had 470 Cuda cores, the 465 and so on.

The only really confusing thing was AMD's eyefinity cards were the same as the regular card but the ports were entirely different. The card was still basically the same card. Then came the 6xxx series and of course, everyone was thinking.........Cool, the 6xxx card has to be better, stronger, faster than the 5xxx card of the same number right? Wrong!

Lets just take one, the 5870 and the 6870, well Bri, the 6870 is going to be a better card, right? Guess again, that answer is wrong!
A 5870 has 1600 stream processors a reference card is running at 850mhz with an effective memory clock of 4800mhz.
A 6870 has only 1120 stream processors running at a slightly higher 900Mhz (which you can do with the included CCC software on the 5870), making it's effective clock run at 4200Mhz.
So you see the flag ship of the 5xxx fleet is still better than the equivelent card of teh 6xxx fleet. The only thing you're going to get better by getting the 6xxx card is 3D & honestly, how many of you can actually afford a 3D setup?? I'm not talking about the built in 3D graphics but the full blown 3D effect that requires a special monitor & special glasses?

Now to Nvidia. The GTX 480 comes out & it trounces on the equivalent AMD card, the 5870. Or does it? It comes out a full $130- more, it takes up to 135 watts more & puts out heat off it's hobbled chip that goes up to 95c no problem. Also, the production is miserable, a full 50% of all the fermi chips that come out can't even make it to be a GTX 480. As usual though, they aren't headed to the Silicon graveyard but head instead to be altered to make 470's 460's and 455's. When "The Fermi Problem" is finally corrected though, the GTX 580 is released. it has a set of fully working 580 Cuda cores, it runs cooler, it runs quieter but it still takes a very powerfull PSU to feed it's hunger. Meanwhile the hobbled Chips on the GTX 480's have dropped in price, dramaticly, they're now selling for around $100- less than on release date. Nothing new there, early adopters are always punished.

The core count didn't stay right from the very beginning though because while a 480 had 480 Cuda cores, a GTX 470 has 440 cores.
Then we drop the numbers a bit and we get into the mix of letters too where a 470 is a GTX (336 cores) but a 450 is a GTS (192 cores).

Are we all baffled now?? Just wait, the GTX 580 was released with lots of fanfare and horns blowing that said it's got fully operational 580 cores but the new 570's have 480 cores! So how is it a 570 instead of a 480?? Well the 570 is cheaper & has 60 texture units and 40 ROP's. The 480 has 480 cores, 56 texture units and 48 ROP's. Is it better to have a 570 than a 480?

It depends gang, it all depends!
I have a very simple method for not getting duped by all that stuff: I ignore the model numbers and the marketing, ignore the technical details that I don't really understand anyway (I don't know -- or care -- what a ROP is), and just look at the real world gaming tests, and compare them with the prices. If the performance is the best in my price range, that's my card! (Allowing of course for necessary considerations like power usage, heat, card length, etc.) What they call it matters not, nor all the input measurements. Output per $$$ is what I care about.

And although there are cards out there with bigger model numbers, I remain quite pleased with my 5850. It should handle my gaming needs nicely for a couple years. Good enough.
Edited by Izdaari - 1/21/11 at 6:58am
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Tomoe Gozen
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post #17365 of 28613
My Scout, some new blue and uv cold cathodes, spec in sig







post #17366 of 28613
DB006
Very nice, I like how you even cleaned up your exterial cabling to the back of the case, nice attention to detail ;P
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post #17367 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by DB006 View Post
My Scout, some new blue and uv cold cathodes, spec in sig




THE GENERAL'S PHOTO OF THE WEEK

This great photo is from our new member Db006. He did such a fine job on his new rig and we thank him for Sharing it..

Thanks Db006 for your wonderful post.
    
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post #17368 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Telnets View Post
Well, I got it all done... Here's a few pics!

Back - Cable Management


Installation


Lighting


Assembled and complete!


Money Shot!


Reward for a hard days work


I have more pics of the whole project up at My Website if your interested

Overall Verdict:
The goal was not to break temps records with this setup, it was simply to improve upon the H70 temps I had when it was installed. (Low 80s @ 100% Load... Most games wouldsit around mid 70s.. and 35c Idle while clocked to 4ghz)

Well by adding a better quality rad, better fans, supposedly a better CPU block, and a stronger pump with reservoir.. it has been actually disappointing. I wouldn't say a failure in any case, but the temps are still comparable to the H70.

Idling is slightly higher then the h70 (sits around 37c), but at 100% Load with Prime95 for 45 min, it's slightly better then before (Hangs around 75ish).. That's a good 8 - 10 degree improvement.

During a 3 hour stint in Battlefield Bad company 2, I didn't actually SEE the temp, but HWMonitor reported the "highest temp" was 78c.. Which still is better then the H70, by a handful of degrees, BUT, not what I was hoping.

Of course, i could always throw on a second Rad, or even move to a better case setup where I could mount a 240x120 rad.. however, this is my LAN case, and 2 things i don't want are A) a bigger case, or B) an external rad to get damaged. So, for now, I think this will do.

All in all, was it worth the money? No... was it an improvement? Slightly.. Am I happy? Hell yeah! A full water cooling lop is still pretty cool, even if its nothing more then bragging rights to friends.

Thanks for following, anyone who did!
It looks really really good. But its a big shame that it hasn't made much difference.
I think you should get another single rad and mount it in the front of the case. I also think you should rearrange the drive bays like this to make it look better (im a bit anal lol ).

CD or DVD Drive
(Dual)
(Dual)res/pump
Switch
Edited by Jamyy10 - 1/21/11 at 12:01pm
post #17369 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamyy10 View Post
It looks really really good. But its a big shame that it hasn't made much difference.
I think you should get another single rad and mount it in the front of the case. I also think you should rearrange the drive bays like this to make it look better (im a bit anal lol ).

CD or DVD Drive
(Dual)
(Dual)res/pump
Switch

Yeah, Well, as mentioned, i kind of knew it was a sideways upgrade only using one rad. I cant mount a rad in the front, due to the HD cage in the way, and i cant remove the HD case, because.. well the res, CDRom and SSD take up all the 5.25 bays.

Putting a rad in the front, and one on the back was my Plan A originaly, but the resivoir i bought was cracked due to the cold and UPS leaving it outside so i couldnt use it So i had to go back to my previous res which was the 5.25 bay one.

As for your bay arrangement, I have an SSD on a tray in the bottom slot right now, and the CD rom above it.. not because I wanted it there, but i figured it was good insurance to have it under the Res, JUST INCASE there was a leak. Id rather it drop on a 20 dollar CD rom then a 200 SSD

But, i do like your idea of putting the rocker switch below the res.. what i might do is put it in the same bay as the SSD, and the bonus would then be i have a free 5.25 bay down the road!

Thanks!
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First Scout
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post #17370 of 28613
Question!

I know that 140mm Fans, can fit rather well inside the front 5.25 bays on the Scout, just by using the Scouts own locking mechanisms on those bays.


I am looking at ordering a new Fan for that spot, going to put it under my Blu Ray drive, locked in place with the Scouts existing slider locks. I am looking at either the Enermax Apollish Vegas, or a Silverstone Air Penetrator; both with red LED's and I am interested in moving my H50 Rad to the rear of those bays and have a strong current of air blowing in from the front grill fan, directly into the Radiator Fans and then venting out through a single rear case Fan, as well as the top Blow Hole.

I'll probably get the Enermax, just because the 140mm model of the Silverstone is a little harder to find and it would cost more, to get a 120mm and couple it with a drive cage; and I figure if a 140mm fits fine by itself just by using the existing slider locks, then why bother with a drive cage with a 120mm...

What I'm curious about though... is how to get the H50's radiator mounted on that spot, with a Fan already on it. Actually it will have two fans as I intend to keep it in its push/pull configuration... the push Fan would be almost inside the rear of the 5.25 bays, or mounted onto the rear of them somehow... the new Fan will be pulling cooler room temp air straight in from the front grill and pushing that through the bays directly into the Rad's push fan.

I'm just not quite sure how to properly secure the Rad and its push fan into that area... I could probably use some black Zip Ties, but... would that really be, secure? lol
     
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MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
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MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
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Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
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