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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1773

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (926)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1860 Total Votes  
post #17721 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
What heat sink are you planing on trying this with? I'm thinking it will have to be one designed for very low RPM fans and be very small. Here are some problems I for see having to be over come.

1. You are not going to have a lot of CFM's unless you use a fan. I don't think the heat from the heat sink will be enough.
2. I'm not sure if you will be able to create enough pressure with the size of a heat sink.
3.The other problem I see would be with a venturi this size and resistance from the heat sink it would have to be almost air tight. How would you seal it up around the heat sink?

Best of luck, and whether it works or not you should do a build log of this in the cooling experiments section so others can see lessons learned or how to do it right, but keep us posted too.
http://www.overclock.net/cooling-experiments/
Awesome thanks for the link, and the feedback. You've raised all very good concerns; definitely I'm prepared for the possibly of very little additional returns, if at all.

In the end I may get the same results with a straight duct as with the venturi. But even if it gets worse after the first few attempts or so, I'm hopeful that the general idea is promising and some tinkering will find a solution (change up the heatsink, fans, ductwork, ect, till something sticks).

My father is an industrial manufacture of heating and cooling supplies for the HVAC industry, so I'm kind of fortunate in terms of having ample thermal supplies around! LoL So it's a matter of choice, which I figure I'll start as simple as possible -- if for nothing else than to establish a few baselines -- and then identify what seems to need more attention from there.

This is going to be my first desktop in almost 10 years, so I'm pretty excited to play with it.
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post #17722 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by kev_b View Post
Yeah I did see a 2 to 3 degree lower cpu temp using this duct vs no duct, I'm doing pretty much the same thing with a Lian Li case with the same results.
That looks gorgeous. Prepare to see mine completely destroy yours in hideous disaster points! LoL duct tape... why not? (kidding of course -- if I can I'd love to make a working model that's both clean and aesthetic while functional too. Clear ductwork seems like the right choice for that)
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post #17723 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by noncognitive View Post
That looks gorgeous. Prepare to see mine completely destroy yours in hideous disaster points! LoL duct tape... why not? (kidding of course -- if I can I'd love to make a working model that's both clean and aesthetic while functional too. Clear ductwork seems like the right choice for that)
Mythbuster did a whole show about duct tape, we should add to what they did and make a computer case completely out of duct tape.
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post #17724 of 28613
nope.. they did two full shows completely on duct tape ^_^
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post #17725 of 28613
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kev_b View Post
Yeah I did see a 2 to 3 degree lower cpu temp using this duct vs no duct, I'm doing pretty much the same thing with a Lian Li case with the same results.
I love your work, it seems like every time you build a new PC they look cleaner and cleaner.
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post #17726 of 28613
What I'm playing with right now isn't a Scout case, they are Lian Li's but this info would help out here since there's so much modding going on with the Scout. I have a PC-8FIB case that is set up for an optional 140mm fan on top, swap out a plate for mesh, the problem is the fan just about don't fit between the 2 top cross bars of the case so I have this steel plate that I got from some water cooling store, 120mm to 140mm, (1/4 inch thick) so I can use a 120mm fan on top. Anyways I have another Lian Li with a 120mm fan on top (PC-A05N) and I happened to set the mesh on top of a 140mm billet grill and I felt almost no air coming out the top, I know the mesh does restricts the air flow but I had no clue it blocks so much, I have great air flow with this billet grill and 1500 rpm fan to, so needless to say I'll be going with the billet grill on top my PC-8FIB.


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post #17727 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by noncognitive View Post
well I'm not a mechanical engineer by trade. That's what I meant by 'it's not my speciality.' I've just been working as an adviser to the engineers at YVR for the last year. But if that's good enough for you guys I'll be honoured to join the club!
We would be horoured to have you on the Team Fellow Scout.

Remember.. Semper Fi. Do or DIE
    
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post #17728 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
Order them from Amazon and sign up for the Amazon Prime Trial to get free shipping. Order as much as you can during the free period to take advantage of it then cancel the membership just before it changes to the paid membership. That is if they have that option down there.
So true, we get so many things from Amazon for 2 reasons, #1 the "Western Distribution Center" is in Fernley about 35 miles away, #2 we used to get a lot of books so Mindy signed us up for Prime, sure you pay a fee once a year but when we looked at it, our savings were massive! If you're in the states after June and you still buy things from there, definitely get Prime, there's a lot more to it than just getting free shipping. You really do get treated better when there's an issue, you've got your credit card backing you up then you have your "Prime" membership which has some guarantees that come with it too. It's definitely well worth it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mnorris12706 View Post
Thank you. I'll give it a shot.
Umm, dude, did you see that your shot was already denied? Sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
I just got to thinking about GPU's and cooling. I wonder why AMD or Nvidia haven't adopted something like the way they cool laptops? Like this

P.S. Don't hate on my paint skills
Have you seen a Fermi card dis-assembled? They did adopt some of those cooling ideas. Especially if you get the HF backplate and HF bracket. I can put up some pics if you like to give you some ideas of what they've done.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
That kinda goes hand in hand with what I was saying with voltages and getting more speed out of the CPU. I know IBT GFlops is not the best way of telling how fast a CPU is, but running .2Ghz slower than others and running faster in what ever benchmark tells me that their CPU isn't stable. If it was clock for clock that is another story. If your OC fails because of 1°C then again, it's not stable. If a update goes wrong because you have an OC'ed CPU, then 99.9% its because its not stable, not that the update caused your OC to be unstable, assuming it wasn't a bad update. You can have those problems with a non OC'ed CPU, its called a bad CPU, because its not stable, lol. But F@H is a good way of testing too. From what I know of F@H others are running the same work unit you are to validate that the work your PC did was error free. The other thing people mess up a lot on is when they are trying to OC or tighten their RAM. Memtest is a good start, but I also use the resource monitor to look at the hard faults.
I gotta agree with both PapaSmurf and you. I see people bragging that they've run a test for 24 hours but the only thing I have seen fail over time is RAM, I don't know why, maybe the way the system handles it or the power flow as the demands go up & down. There are no good synthetic tests, nothing can replicate the way you use your computer at it's most stressed out times.

Prime only stresses your Cpu cores, Gpu tests like Kombuster or anything based on Furmark only test your Gpu's. While Prime is running your gpu is doing the most simple thing it can.... 2D. Neither of those run the tests you need for your Ram, write 0's write 1's Walking bits and that lot. Futuremark tried to do it with PC Mark but there's too many variations in PC hardware to keep up with. MaximumPC came up with thier own suite of tests but to release it to the public would be a lot of legal stuff and it would have to be on Blu-ray and cost the end user hundreds for the disk.

Folding (using a Virtual Machine) on both the Cpu and one client on each Gpu is as close as you'll get to a true stress test for the whole system, it keeps logs, which gives you the hand offs to test the drives, it has a visible effect on Ram because of the use of the virtual machine and it's a solid test for the Gpu's because it uses 99-100% of Gpu processing ability, but this is only with the SMP clients running with the right settings.

If nothing else were to be gained from it, Folding is the only stress test you can do on your system that will pretty much show you the total power useage of your components! It's the only reason I stopped at a million points.

As far as the amount of time goes, again, I've never seen one fail because of time more than 15 minutes unless it was a fault in one of the components. If you want to watch your hard drives fill up for a test just run super pi on them! If you want to stress your drives, get this: http://www.fileshredder.org/ Or any program that will run DOD wipes 5220-22.M or Guttman Algorithims, set it up and watch it click away, if your drive has any faults on them, this will find them. It did on 3 of mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kev_b View Post
I want this hand gun, even has taget sights.
Why not just cut down a Mossburg 500? They're cheap, so no big loss & you keep the 7 shell magazine, or holder or whatever it's called on a shotgun! LOL!! I do like the revolver idea!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kev_b View Post
The duct idea is a good one, I did it myself but with no venturi, mine was more of focusing the air where it did the most good. I am a mechanic by trade and did a little experiment with the AC on cars & trucks, with the fan turned all the way up the temp out of the ducts went up, too much air flow across the evaparator actually heated it up, drop the fan speed one notch and the temp went down, no sure if it will be the same with a cpu cooler though but it would be a cool experiment to find out still.
Yeah, running a tube, duct, to the cpu was a thing for a little while. Dell & HP did it the most, as far as I know, they had an intake on the side or back & plastic ducting direct to the cpu, this let them run lower speed (quieter) fans. The problem with ducting in a small space like a PC is that the ducts can get in the way of the air flow through the case. Just as taking out the side fans can sometimes make the airflow better because there's not air being pushed in from the side, taking out the ducting proved that it was better for the system as a whole for cooling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noncognitive View Post
well this was more effort than it was worth but anyhow looks like a swanky animation lol (hope the format works)
Ok, I don't see the dimensions, not sure it would matter, Rockr is better at seeing this kind of thing than I am, but when you pinch the airlfow down like that, sometimes when it's let loose on the other side of the restriction, it messes up the pressure and your Laminar (smooth) flow becomes Turbulent (turbulent) flow littlle eddies appear on the other side of the squeeze. It all depends!

With the idea of having one fan a few inches from another fan, inside a ducted area, you end up with the same kind of problem, the first fan blasts your air into the duct, it usually gets flowing smooth after a short distance (google: Laws of Fluid Dynamics). If they're equal power, fin shape, flow type, they might sync up naturally, the first one regulating the way the second one flows. Most likely though, you're not going to get any boost and probably end up shorting the air burst at least a little.

Oh yeah, the one more thing. The whole idea of shrouding came up because of wanting to smooth out the flow.
Ok, this pic is my rad filled with dirty nasty river dust, it's only a good example because you can see the pattern that the fans struts and the center of the fan created, basically they're in the way:

When you put a spacer (shroud) between the fan and the rad you help eliminate the spots that you see in the areas where the dust collected less. This shroud, basically a fan case without struts and the fan, is the easiest way & keeps the air moving in the direction it started: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fetfcxtrash12.html
I picked this one because there's a bunch of pics below it to look at.

If you use a big boxy shroud, you pretty much give the air the room to go where it wants to: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpeshps1.html

There's all kinds of materials & studies saying one works better than the other & tests skewed both ways, either way, you're better with a shroud than without one.

Here's a single box type: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpsshforpad.html
Edited by BriSleep - 1/30/11 at 7:33pm
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post #17729 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
Why not just cut down a Mossburg 500? They're cheap, so no big loss & you keep the 7 shell magazine, or holder or whatever it's called on a shotgun! LOL!! I do like the revolver idea!




I would have bought this hand gun but I couldn't find a holster to fit it.
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post #17730 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
I love your work, it seems like every time you build a new PC they look cleaner and cleaner.
Yea.. he has been an inspiration to us and he was the first to use a tinted Plexi Hard drive Cover to the CMSS. His work is Extra-ordinary.
    
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