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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1883

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (929)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1863 Total Votes  
post #18821 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockr69 View Post
My R.A.T. 7 dances on my desk too!
well im not surprised when my sound system is rated at 600w total output lol
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post #18822 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamyy10 View Post
Ah that's a shame because I don't like Cool-its closed loop water coolers. They just look cheap and tacky to me, like a cheap version of Corsairs closed loop coolers (Although i'm not sure how it performs against the H50 or H70).

Cool-It did a good job on the H60 I must say it looks cool, just proves that they cant be that bad.

I wonder how it performs against the H50?.
Corsair's H-series coolers are nothing more than cheap rebranded Asteks.

H60 review by HardwareHeaven: Link

Decent. Looks to be a better value than the H70 (Yes, I know I own one. Wish I would have gotten a RASA 360 instead )
Jarvis
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post #18823 of 28613
well, it looks that Im lucky

my RAT5 had zero tracking problems, its VERY accurate in my Mouse pad

but anyways...the biggest problem in the grip....

my K/D ratio in cod4 and bc2 had fall A LOT
GTR-PC
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post #18824 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTR Mclaren View Post
well, it looks that Im lucky

my RAT5 had zero tracking problems, its VERY accurate in my Mouse pad

but anyways...the biggest problem in the grip....

my K/D ratio in cod4 and bc2 had fall A LOT
That's one of the reasons why I returned my R.A.T. 7 -- just couldn't configure it in a way to make it comfortable. Looked cool though
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post #18825 of 28613
man, today sucks. got my durango back last night(mechanic tested everything and says its holding a charge now) and dam thing is dead dead this morning. no lights, no nothing when i try to turn it over. He tried to tell me its a wiring problem from who ever fixed it before...i told him that it was working fine for the month we had the truck before he worked on it, then he does and now there is a constant draw on the battery....atleast to me, that means that he messed something up. he already had to come back and pick it up once because the doors wouldnt lock, the dome lights wouldnt come on and the heater wouldnt work, all cause he didnt hook up a ground strap. now there is a constant draw on the battery and hes telling me its not what he did. I am just so fed up. we have had this vehicle in working condition for only 1 day since he touched it almost 3 weeks ago now.
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post #18826 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Destroyer View Post
man, today sucks. got my durango back last night(mechanic tested everything and says its holding a charge now) and dam thing is dead dead this morning. no lights, no nothing when i try to turn it over. He tried to tell me its a wiring problem from who ever fixed it before...i told him that it was working fine for the month we had the truck before he worked on it, then he does and now there is a constant draw on the battery....atleast to me, that means that he messed something up. he already had to come back and pick it up once because the doors wouldnt lock, the dome lights wouldnt come on and the heater wouldnt work, all cause he didnt hook up a ground strap. now there is a constant draw on the battery and hes telling me its not what he did. I am just so fed up. we have had this vehicle in working condition for only 1 day since he touched it almost 3 weeks ago now.

Sounds to me Blue, you need to find a new mechanic!

Take that Durango somewhere else!

Go get second.. AND, third opinions!
     
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post #18827 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc75 View Post
Sounds to me Blue, you need to find a new mechanic!

Take that Durango somewhere else!

Go get second.. AND, third opinions!
dont have the funds to have it done anywhere else. i am giving him till monday to have this thing back up and running or i will ask for a refund, or, take it somewhere else and get a repair estimate to fix whatever is wrong and hand it to him. if he dosnt fix/pay for it to be fixed i have no other option but to file a lawsuit. i really, really dont want to go down this way, but ive payed this guy over $1400 for work on 2 vehicles, this is obviously something he did wrong and he will have to fix it or pay to fix it. im not having this come out of my pocket. i am also going to talk to the car lot i bought it from as a backup and see what they might be willing to do.

EDIT: I am pretty good with auto's. Rebuilt full engines, replaced tranny's, alternators, starter, fuel pumps, done tune-ups 10+ times, numerous other problem solving and repairs. due to my back i cant do those things anymore. thats one reason i know he hooked something up wrong(did i forget to mention that the 12v charger in the vehicle STILL has positive/positive connection instead of positive/negative connection?)
Edited by Blue Destroyer - 3/3/11 at 9:27am
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Haf of an 2500K
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post #18828 of 28613
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc75 View Post
Sounds to me Blue, you need to find a new mechanic!

Take that Durango somewhere else!

Go get second.. AND, third opinions!
I'll second that, what work did you get done to it?
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post #18829 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post
I'll second that, what work did you get done to it?
fuel pump on my explorer, front brakes(caliper rebuild/rotors/brakes) on explorer and then heater core on the durango. the first 2 were easy and went perfect. its been the durango he messed up.
Haf of an 2500K
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post #18830 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarbug View Post
Well it begins with planning the loop.
What components will you be cooling?
Next is reading, reading, and more reading about blocks, rads, pumps, and fans.

The res is attached to a fill port mounted into the top of the case. One of the 2 bottom fittings of the res goes to the input of the pump (the other is the return).

The pump output line goes to the rad. The rad is externally mounted with z brackets to the back of the case.

The rad output (cooled air) goes to the cpu block, cpu to GPU block, GPU block back to res.

I also put in a drain line that goes out the back of the case.

Lay your plan out on paper and take precise measurements of case space and component LxWxH. You will be amazed that all of those ideas won't fit even if you mutilate your case.

Buy your parts based on size (that fits) and budget. Layout the loop in the case before any permanent mounting, to be very sure of the layout.

As my Dad told me (rhs) many times..."Measure twice, cut once."

Good luck.
I've been contemplating doing a custom loop in my Lil Scout. Had fun looking at your pictures of your loop in your Scout!

My first experience with Liquid Cooling was an old Tt BigWater kit that I used on my old Athlon64 chip. It worked flawlessly for about 4 years before I finally upgraded that system to a Phenom II 940... and the BigWater kit was no longer compatible, so I went back to Air cooling on that one.

When it came time to upgrade my second computer, I chose instead to just build a new one entirely, which turned out to be my Sig Rig and in turn brought me to this wonderful Club when I chose the Storm Scout! Though this build, I went back to Liquid and got the H50...

But now, I am contemplating taking that H50 out, and going with a full custom designed kit; looking at some EK HF CPU blocks and an MCP355 pump, with a Black Ice 120 Rad with a pair of GT's. Planning to mount the Rad somewhere in the Scouts front 5.25 bays to pull a steady stream of cool room temp air straight in from the front, and vent out the "blow hole".

What I have not figured out yet though, is which res would be best for the Scout when I'm just cooling the CPU; as well as how to do the lines and tubing. Thinking I want to go with some red tubing, but I have absolutely no clue what to do about the fittings, etc...

You're right about one thing Cigarbug!

LOT's of reading!

I have learned a lot so far just from reading a few of the stickies over on OCN's Water Cooling section!

however, I am holding off on my decision until the end of the CeBit Convention, as word is, that AMD is going to be letting the Mobo Manufacturer's to unveil their new 990FX line ups. MSI has already revealed their's; and there is now news that Asus will be unveiling their Crosshair 5 soon at the Convention.

If I end up pulling my 89GX out, and replacing it with a 990FX, then I'll be pulling that H50 out as well, and that would be a good time to replace that H50 with something a lot more efficient!
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
OSOSOSMonitor
DOS 3.0 on 5½ Floppy Disk!! Atari BASIC on 24k ROM!! Atari BASIC Cartridge!! Samsung 32" LCD Television 
KeyboardAudio
Built-In Television Audio! 
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Reply
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
OSOSOSMonitor
DOS 3.0 on 5½ Floppy Disk!! Atari BASIC on 24k ROM!! Atari BASIC Cartridge!! Samsung 32" LCD Television 
KeyboardAudio
Built-In Television Audio! 
  hide details  
Reply
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