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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 1884

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (926)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1860 Total Votes  
post #18831 of 28613
OH! and cigarbug, I do have a question for you bout your set up!

How did you install the fill port and the drain port on your Scout?
     
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post #18832 of 28613
I ordered my parts, but I have to wait till the mobo goes back on sale.

I was able to use the 10% off coupons for my RAM and PSU (both are combos), but now they wont work.
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post #18833 of 28613
My new mouse and mousemate just arrived! Cm Storm Inferno, and Weapon of choice mat. Reccomended. Overclockers.co.uk have the mouse for £24.99 with the mat free for any of you UK guys.

Mouse has awesome build quality, 11 programmable buttons, pulsing red CM Storm logo and it feels brilliant. Lighting is awesome too. All the CM storm stuff seems to be awesome!
     
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post #18834 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc75;12596513 
OH! and cigarbug, I do have a question for you bout your set up!

How did you install the fill port and the drain port on your Scout?

BE very careful to measure for a front rad mount. You will be doing some serious modding to the Scout bays. A 240 rad is bigger than 240. You may find that they do not fit. A 360 is out of the question. I understand that a completely internal system is ideal, but trade-offs have to be made.

I strongly suggest that you DO NOT mutilate your case for the sake of an internal rad mount. At best you would have to settle for a less than optimum radiator (because you will be shopping for size instead of performance). Oh, and don't forget to add the fan's 25mm to the rad size when estimating.

The top fill port is a DD 1" port. After carefully measuring the res position (TIP: mask tape top of res fitting. Elmers glue dab on tape to mark drill hole. Place res/fitting/tape/glue combo to interior case top to mark drill spot for 1" fill port hole.) I used a male to male fitting in the top of the res to connect the res to fill port. Just turn the res to tighten res to top fill port. Drill pilot hole from inside out. Drill fill port hole 1" (check your fill port instructions for proper size) hole outside in. Always follow proper drilling techniques and mask all areas around drilling areas to prevent damage.

Drain port: "Y" splitter out of pump line. The right side is tubed through the lower rear of the case. Plugged and clamped. When draining, the pump will help drain the loop with 1 or 2 on/off bursts.
    
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post #18835 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarbug;12597159 
BE very careful to measure for a front rad mount. You will be doing some serious modding to the Scout bays. A 240 rad is bigger than 240. You may find that they do not fit. A 360 is out of the question. I understand that a completely internal system is ideal, but trade-offs have to be made.

I strongly suggest that you DO NOT mutilate your case for the sake of an internal rad mount. At best you would have to settle for a less than optimum radiator (because you will be shopping for size instead of performance). Oh, and don't forget to add the fan's 25mm to the rad size when estimating.

The top fill port is a DD 1" port. After carefully measuring the res position (TIP: mask tape top of res fitting. Elmers glue dab on tape to mark drill hole. Place res/fitting/tape/glue combo to interior case top to mark drill spot for 1" fill port hole.) I used a male to male fitting in the top of the res to connect the res to fill port. Just turn the res to tighten res to top fill port. Drill pilot hole from inside out. Drill fill port hole 1" (check your fill port instructions for proper size) hole outside in. Always follow proper drilling techniques and mask all areas around drilling areas to prevent damage.

Drain port: "Y" splitter out of pump line. The right side is tubed through the lower rear of the case. Plugged and clamped. When draining, the pump will help drain the loop with 1 or 2 on/off bursts.

I'm looking at doing a 120 Rad, instead of a 240... and yea I know a 360 was way out of the question for an internal loop.

Though, IF.. a 240 Rad will give me better cooling on the CPU, then I might explore doing that via an external mount somehow.

For now though, my plan is to go with THIS RAD and put a pair of Gentle Typhoon's on it, in a push/pull set up, preferably towards the rear of the 5.25 bays... and then add a Appollish Vegas right in the front of the bay, suck in the air and push it all directly back into the GT's.
     
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post #18836 of 28613
This is my advice.
120 rad will be no better than the H50 you already have. AN H-70 would be better.

You have 3 options:

A better performing CPU loop.

A Custom CPU loop

Either one of the above with the ability to expand cooling to VGA's.

The XSPC RASA 750 is a great kit, and for all the parts it includes is a great deal.

A Custom CPU loop is more $$, but allows more customized options.

Keep reading the guides and reviews, ask a lot of questions, and avoid impulse shopping. Sleep on your ideas.

You will also learn that push/pull adds nothing to better rads. (While it certainly does help on the Hydros)
    
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post #18837 of 28613
CJ, Some advice

A 120 rad is fine. Its what im running. and is comareable to my h70. Its actualy about 2 or 3 degree cooler then my push/pull h70 setup was in fact. Probably due to a better rad then corsair's, and a better CPU block.

The 120mm rad you linked wont fit the back exhaust mount. At least mine didnt (I ordered the exact same one). The space between the metal flashing of the side door panel and the small bend of metal near the motherboard was too small by about 1 or 2mm. I could have probably modded my case to make it fit, but instead I just opted to get a slightly smaller rad that was less then 130mm wide. I ended up picking up a coolance one found here.

I also found that a thick rad like the one you linked, didnt fit well at the top of the case either. With my motherboard, the bridge heatsinks wouldnt allow it.

I was thinking about mounting it at the front, as it fit there fine. However, I choose to go with the res that fit in my 5 1/4 bays, so it didnt leave me with anywhere for my HDDs so i had to keep my HD cage and that wouldnt allow me to use the front intake for a rad spot.

As i said, i used the 5 1/4 bays for my Res and it works great. Keeps the res out of the way, keeps things nice and clean, and hose routing was easy. I used this one from XSPC

Works really well, and i like the fact its got the pump built in, its 1 less thing i had to find a spot for in the case.

Lastly, i went with 3/8ID tubing. I initialy tried the 1/2"ID tubing and just found it not only to be overkill on 1 cpu, but it was hard to work with and bend where i needed it to go. The 1 step down in tubing worked out really well for me.

Here is a pic of my setup, im sure you seen it before posted

wcprojct09.jpg

If i can be of any more help let me know!
First Scout
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First Scout
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post #18838 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarbug;12597530 
This is my advice.
120 rad will be no better than the H50 you already have. AN H-70 would be better.

You have 3 options:

A better performing CPU loop.

A Custom CPU loop

Either one of the above with the ability to expand cooling to VGA's.

The XSPC RASA 750 is a great kit, and for all the parts it includes is a great deal.

A Custom CPU loop is more $$, but allows more customized options.

Keep reading the guides and reviews, ask a lot of questions, and avoid impulse shopping. Sleep on your ideas.

You will also learn that push/pull adds nothing to better rads. (While it certainly does help on the Hydros)


Good points, and I've heard a lot about that XSPC RASA 750 kit. i keep thinking a custom loop Kit like that would be better. But, I'm picky and I read a lot of reviews about how this block is better then that block, this pump is better then that pump, and so on...

Expanding the loop to a VGA block, is something I also considered... I don't intend on replacing my good ole 5850 for a long while; and its fan IS starting to go, probably needs a good cleaning some some oiling... but figure if I'm going to take that 5850 all apart to blow out and oil its fan, then why not consider adding a water block onto it instead.

I also considered upgrading to the H-70 instead, went and asked some questions about it awhile back in the H50/H70 Club thread and most of the guys over there seem to be of the opinion that there is not much difference in the two other then a few degree's difference in cooling, depending on fan types used...

Good info on the 120 Rad's. Perhaps I might look more into the 240's then, as I would probably have to have a 240 anyway if I plan to add a block onto my 5850 at some point.

As for the money invested... I know a custom loop can cost a lot. I plan to budget no more then $300 into it... though would prefer to try to keep it around $250.

If, I did a Kit though then I would likely go with the EK H30 Supreme HF 240 Kit; the Rasa 750 Kit would use up the 5.25 bays for its pump and Res; which means no room for a fan there! But then I figure, if I'm going to be picky enough to want the top rated CPU Block (EK HF Supreme), then I may as well pair it with the top rated pump (MCP355) .. and that just leaves in question, the Rad, Res and the rest of the loop! LOL
     
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Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
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post #18839 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Telnets;12597987 
CJ, Some advice

A 120 rad is fine. Its what im running. and is comareable to my h70. Its actualy about 2 or 3 degree cooler then my push/pull h70 setup was in fact. Probably due to a better rad then corsair's, and a better CPU block.

The 120mm rad you linked wont fit the back exhaust mount. At least mine didnt (I ordered the exact same one). The space between the metal flashing of the side door panel and the small bend of metal near the motherboard was too small by about 1 or 2mm. I could have probably modded my case to make it fit, but instead I just opted to get a slightly smaller rad that was less then 130mm wide. I ended up picking up a coolance one found here.


I also found that a thick rad like the one you linked, didnt fit well at the top of the case either. With my motherboard, the bridge heatsinks wouldnt allow it.

I was thinking about mounting it at the front, as it fit there fine. However, I choose to go with the res that fit in my 5 1/4 bays, so it didnt leave me with anywhere for my HDDs so i had to keep my HD cage and that wouldnt allow me to use the front intake for a rad spot.

As i said, i used the 5 1/4 bays for my Res and it works great. Keeps the res out of the way, keeps things nice and clean, and hose routing was easy. I used this one from XSPC

Works really well, and i like the fact its got the pump built in, its 1 less thing i had to find a spot for in the case.

Lastly, i went with 3/8ID tubing. I initialy tried the 1/2"ID tubing and just found it not only to be overkill on 1 cpu, but it was hard to work with and bend where i needed it to go. The 1 step down in tubing worked out really well for me.

Here is a pic of my setup, im sure you seen it before posted

wcprojct09.jpg

If i can be of any more help let me know!


More good Water Cooled Scout Advice!

3/8 tubing is what I've been considering actually; I've read a lot a posts over on the WC Section here, that a lot seem to prefer the 3/8 on CPU only loops.

Also, great to know fact about that Rad with the Scout! That's why I have been considering a front bay mounting. I was concerned about the size of such a Rad on the rear, and I am of the strong opinion that when it comes to a Water Cooled Scout, the best place for the Rad is going to be in the front; seeing as the Scout is not truly designed for Water Cooling, that the front is going to be the best spot for drawing in the coolest air... least, thats just my opinion!

I remember seeing that picture of yours earlier in the thread, always thought it looked beautifully done!
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
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DOS 3.0 on 5½ Floppy Disk!! Atari BASIC on 24k ROM!! Atari BASIC Cartridge!! Samsung 32" LCD Television 
KeyboardAudio
Built-In Television Audio! 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
MOS Technology 6502B @ 1.79mhz! Atari XL Series 8bit w/ 24K ROM ANTIC/CTIA - Color Television Interface Adaptor 64K RAM 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1050 5½ Floppy Disk Drive Atari 1010 Cassette Deck Tape Drive One 12" A/C Desk Fan. 
OSOSOSMonitor
DOS 3.0 on 5½ Floppy Disk!! Atari BASIC on 24k ROM!! Atari BASIC Cartridge!! Samsung 32" LCD Television 
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post #18840 of 28613
Thread Starter 
One really nice thing about the RS240 rad that comes with the Rasa kit is it will bolt right up to the stock front fan mounts. If you do go this route you will have to cut in to the 5.25" bays. I do suggest not cutting the very front of the drive bays out. I does provide support to the bottom of the bays keeping them for spreading out. I did cut that part out and it causes me to break the bottom 5.25" tooless lock off because I have a thick window held in by screws that hit it when putting on the side. I can take pics if you would like. It is a very easy mod to mount it like this, you just need to plan for mounting your HDD's. The rad will fill the bottom 2 5.25" bays.

EDIT
One thing to keep in mind about mounting a 120 in the back is cooling the heat sinks that it will cover. Mine was not getting any air flow over it and was getting cooked. I was even having problems with my usb in the back cutting out on my because of the heat build up back there. For me it was a quick fix by pulling out the MB plate alowing air to flow through there.
Edited by GoodInk - 3/3/11 at 12:34pm
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Potentia et Decor
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XSPC Rasa CPU Block EK-Reservoir/Pump Combo DCP 4.0 Windows 7 64bit LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
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Logitech G15 Cooler Master 850watt SilentPro Lian Li A70F Logitech G9 
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