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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 2471

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1861 Total Votes  
post #24701 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Still under construction, more to come
Modeler's Brand
Double Density LED Tape
Review


thumb.gif Bud, very specool.gif. Great review!!!
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post #24702 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Does this help?
431
This is not the same as the video, what he has going on is a 5v and 12v input to the switch and the out put changes to what ever volt he has it switched to.

That actually does help quite a lot! Rep up, my good sir! thumb.gif

Let me know if this makes sense from what I now understand:

The diagram shows the switch as being part of the 5v circuit that receives power from the PSU molex. The 5v circuit is kept separate from the 12v circuit via the diode. Activating the switch releases current through the 5v circuit into the relay, which in turn activates the 12v circuit that receives its power from the PSU molex as well.

Assuming that is correct, I have more questions:
The 12v circuit in the diagram above would actually run on 12v and not 5v, right?
In this scenario, would the LED light power switch itself require any modification to function as intended and/or for safety reasons?

I found a picture of the BitFenix LED wiring to determine how they would fit into this configuration. Since the LEDs are turned on via a jumper with only one wire, what would be the best way of controlling these fan LEDs from turning on and off? Another relay that uses the 5v circuit form the switch on the case that, when activated, connects both ends of the jumper without providing any power to the “jumper” side?

I'm going on a limb here assuming that the above is all correct; check out this schematic that I whipped up to help myself visualize how things might work in my setup and to get your input in case I’m mistaken. Let me know if anything looks out of whack:

425

*Edit: Typo. Doh!
Edited by Shaddax - 3/8/12 at 11:47am
post #24703 of 28613
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue1266 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Still under construction, more to come
Modeler's Brand
Double Density LED Tape
Review


thumb.gif Bud, very specool.gif. Great review!!!

Thanks and there is more to come with the review.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaddax View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Does this help?
431
This is not the same as the video, what he has going on is a 5v and 12v input to the switch and the out put changes to what ever volt he has it switched to.

That actually does help quite a lot! Rep up, my good sir! thumb.gif

Let me know if this makes sense from what I now understand:

The diagram shows the switch as being part of the 5v circuit that receives power from the PSU molex. The 5v circuit is kept separate from the 12v circuit via the diode. Activating the switch releases current through the 5v circuit into the relay, which in turn activates the 12v circuit that receives its power from the PSU molex as well.

Assuming that is correct, I have more questions:
The 12v circuit in the diagram above would actually run on 12v and not 5v, right?
In this scenario, would the LED light power switch itself require any modification to function as intended and/or for safety reasons?


I found a picture of the BitFenix LED wiring to determine how they would fit into this configuration. Since the LEDs are turned on via a jumper with only one wire, what would be the best way of controlling these fan LEDs from turning on and off? Another relay that uses the 5v circuit form the switch on the case that, when activated, connects both ends of the jumper without providing any power to the “jumper” side?

I'm going on a limb here assuming that the above is all correct; check out this schematic that I whipped up to help myself visualize how things might work in my setup and to get your input in case I’m mistaken. Let me know if anything looks out of whack:

425

*Edit: Typo. Doh!

1. The 5v circuit is kept separate from the 12v circuit via the diode.
No, the 5v is kept separate becuase the circuit never cross paths. The relay has 2 circuits the 5v switch and a 12v pass through that is turned on and off from the 5v switch.

This is how the relay works
Lights off
301

Lights on
301

2. The 12v circuit in the diagram above would actually run on 12v and not 5v, right?
Yes, pulling 12v from the PSU

3. In this scenario, would the LED light power switch itself require any modification to function as intended and/or for safety reasons?
The diode is used to protect transistors and ICs from the brief high voltage produced when a relay coil is switched off. Current flowing through a relay coil creates a magnetic field which collapses suddenly when the current is switched off. The sudden collapse of the magnetic field induces a brief high voltage across the relay coil which is very likely to damage transistors and ICs. The protection diode allows the induced voltage to drive a brief current through the coil (and diode) so the magnetic field dies away quickly rather than instantly. This prevents the induced voltage becoming high enough to cause damage to transistors and ICs.

4. Since the LEDs are turned on via a jumper with only one wire, what would be the best way of controlling these fan LEDs from turning on and off? Another relay that uses the 5v circuit form the switch on the case that, when activated, connects both ends of the jumper without providing any power to the “jumper” side?
Use one relay to power your terminal block and run all 12v lights off that, fan LED's and LED's strips.

5. Get rid of the top relay and run the fan LED's off C and D unless you are wanting the fans to turn on and off with the switch, guessing you still want air moving in your case. The relay that you are looking at is good for 1 amp, you might need one that can handle more. Just add up the amps on everything to see how much it will pull.
425

PS Thanks for the Rep and what are you using to make that schematic?
Edited by GoodInk - 3/8/12 at 2:22pm
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post #24704 of 28613
How do I get onto the "New" members list? Wait, just filled out the form... Check out some pics, and check out the build log for details

Build Log

Pics (more in build log):


400

450

400
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post #24705 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

1. The 5v circuit is kept separate from the 12v circuit via the diode.
No, the 5v is kept separate becuase the circuit never cross paths. The relay has 2 circuits the 5v switch and a 12v pass through that is turned on and off from the 5v switch.
This is how the relay works
Lights off
301
Lights on
301

2. The 12v circuit in the diagram above would actually run on 12v and not 5v, right?
Yes, pulling 12v from the PSU


3. In this scenario, would the LED light power switch itself require any modification to function as intended and/or for safety reasons?
The diode is used to protect transistors and ICs from the brief high voltage produced when a relay coil is switched off. Current flowing through a relay coil creates a magnetic field which collapses suddenly when the current is switched off. The sudden collapse of the magnetic field induces a brief high voltage across the relay coil which is very likely to damage transistors and ICs. The protection diode allows the induced voltage to drive a brief current through the coil (and diode) so the magnetic field dies away quickly rather than instantly. This prevents the induced voltage becoming high enough to cause damage to transistors and ICs.

Thanks, that more or less confirms what I was thinking... I just didn't know how to explain it as well as you did there. That last explanation was awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

4. Since the LEDs are turned on via a jumper with only one wire, what would be the best way of controlling these fan LEDs from turning on and off? Another relay that uses the 5v circuit form the switch on the case that, when activated, connects both ends of the jumper without providing any power to the “jumper” side?
Use one relay to power your terminal block and run all 12v lights off that, fan LED's and LED's strips.

The reason that I have it set up like that is because the BitFenix Spectre fans use jumper-type connectors to turn on the lights. I'm pretty sure that if I were to add more power to that particular circuit that funky things might happen. Here's a quick and dirty explanation of what I mean:

Cooler master fans have power and ground running from their LED lights
+ ---- | LED connector |
- ---- | from fan |

BitFenix look like they use jumpers
Jumper -> C | LED connector from fan |

Have a peek at the photo I had provided in my last post to get a better idea of what I mean. Since those jumper wires are already powered by the connection made from the fan itself, I was thinking of separating the jumper via terminal block AB so that all it does is bridge the connection, no power involved other than what's already there from the fan once the connection is made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

5. Get rid of the top relay and run the fan LED's off C and D unless you are wanting the fans to turn on and off with the switch, guessing you still want air moving in your case. The relay that you are looking at is good for 1 amp, you might need one that can handle more. Just add up the amps on everything to see how much it will pull.
425

Oh man, adding up amps is something I have never done before or even thought of doing. I'll look that up and try to find an answer and will get back to you.

I definitely still want air running through my case with the lights off... wink.gif

As for running the fan LEDS off terminal block CD, that would be adding extra power to the LED fans from what I understand of the jumper connections I described above. I'd be worried that would cause something to go really wrong (e.g. burn out the fan/fan LEDS/other stuff). Am I misunderstanding something about how the jumper connections work on the BitFenix fans? redface.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

PS Thanks for the Rep and what are you using to make that schematic?

I used MS Pain, a lot of patience to get it placed in an understandable manner and brainpower trying to figure out how it should all come together. biggrin.gif

Thanks a ton for all your help, GoodInk. I really hope I'm not too much of a pain in the butt. tongue.gif
post #24706 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post

How do I get onto the "New" members list? Wait, just filled out the form... Check out some pics, and check out the build log for details
Build Log
Pics (more in build log):
450

Great looking build mate! I was looking at this build log a few days ago and was hoping youd find your way here. First time Ive seen a 7970 in a scout I believe! Lovin the look of it! thumb.gif
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post #24707 of 28613
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post

How do I get onto the "New" members list? Wait, just filled out the form... Check out some pics, and check out the build log for details

Build Log

Pics (more in build log):


400

450

How is that 140 to 120 shroud working out? That 7970 looks as if it was made for the Scout! Great job thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaddax View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post


The reason that I have it set up like that is because the BitFenix Spectre fans use jumper-type connectors to turn on the lights. I'm pretty sure that if I were to add more power to that particular circuit that funky things might happen. Here's a quick and dirty explanation of what I mean:

Cooler master fans have power and ground running from their LED lights
+ ---- | LED connector |
- ---- | from fan |

BitFenix look like they use jumpers
Jumper -> C | LED connector from fan |

Have a peek at the photo I had provided in my last post to get a better idea of what I mean. Since those jumper wires are already powered by the connection made from the fan itself, I was thinking of separating the jumper via terminal block AB so that all it does is bridge the connection, no power involved other than what's already there from the fan once the connection is made.

I missed that

Oh man, adding up amps is something I have never done before or even thought of doing. I'll look that up and try to find an answer and will get back to you.

I'm sure you will be fine

I used MS Pain, a lot of patience to get it placed in an understandable manner and brainpower trying to figure out how it should all come together. biggrin.gif

Paint Skills thumb.gif

Thanks a ton for all your help, GoodInk. I really hope I'm not too much of a pain in the butt. tongue.gif

No problem, just got me using a part of my brain that I haven't used in about 15 years redface.gif
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post #24708 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow_Foxx View Post

Great looking build mate! I was looking at this build log a few days ago and was hoping youd find your way here. First time Ive seen a 7970 in a scout I believe! Lovin the look of it! thumb.gif

Thanks,
I did a lot of research on the 7970's before buying. From what info I can find online, this XFX DD model is the shortest available, and it JUST BARELY fits. There is about 1 or 2mm of clearance, I've got a pic of a thin ruler that I slide in place and is held there just from the tight fit. So I'd say this is the only 7970 model that fits this case without any mods.
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post #24709 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

No problem, just got me using a part of my brain that I haven't used in about 15 years redface.gif

Nice! Always good to keep practicing the brain. tongue.gif

Alright, just from glancing at the fans, I'd be just under 1 amp ±10%... That ±10% is scary stuff being so close to the 1 amp mark though. As for the LED strips, they are rated in Watts and I'm baffled now. Argh, why does Google have to be down here right now... frown.gif

Considering that the fans alone are close to 1 amp, does that mean I need to find another relay that can handle more amperage? While I wait impatiently for Google to come back up here, what exactly does one have to do to figure out Watts to Amps? headscratch.gif

*Edit: Damn typos. Why u no work right Spellcheck?
post #24710 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

How is that 140 to 120 shroud working out? That 7970 looks as if it was made for the Scout! Great job thumb.gif

The shroud works good. It lets me use a 140mm fan on the H50 rad. So I can get the same airflow at lower rpm, which means less noise at idle and low use. But this fan still cranks up to high speed when needed. The shroud actually blocks the upper screw hole for the side panel. I could have modded something to make that work, but decided not to. So the side panel is held in mainly just by the bottom screw. And on the top the panel is just sandwiched between the case and the shroud. Also since the back of the shroud is not accessible when installed, I had to use some rubber quick-release/anti-vibration mounts for the fan.
That means that the procedure I have to follow to remove the side panel is this: 1. Remove two of the rubber fan mounts from the shroud. 2. Swivel the fan aside, and unscrew 2 of the shroud screws from the radiator. 3. Unscrew the bottom screw from the side panel. 4. Now the panel will slide back to remove, pushing the shroud out of the way.. Reverse the steps to install.
It's a little inconvenient, but a worthwhile compromise.

I'm actually a little concerned about temps now. My old gpu was a reference design which pushed all the air out the back. But now with the new one, it's circulating hot air inside. Which means more hot air going through the rad, and possibly not so good for the cpu. I'm keeping an eye on temps for now, and if needed I'll upgrade to a bigger rad.
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