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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 2491

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

• 49% (928)
Great
• 30% (573)
Good
• 12% (226)
Meh
• 1% (27)
• 5% (108)
SUX
Quote:
Originally Posted by ModelersBrandÂ

It sounds like you don't mind doing a little splicing and cutting, so here's my idea. Those LEDs should be 5v. Each LED likely has a resistor on one leg or the other. Cut that resistor off and solder in a 470ohm resistor on each LED That's it. The 470ohm will be good for 12v. If you want to get into some real math, then you could simply add the appropriate resistor on the main lead and avoid cutting out the old resistors.
Search the net for an 'LED Calculator' and you can plug your numbers into that to give you an idea of which new resistor you would need for that 7v difference. So if 5v needs, say, 200ohm, then you would need to add ~300 ohms to get the 470ohm minimum. They only come in specific sizes, so if there isn't a 270ohm in this example, you go up to the next rated number. Never less!
The way to tell the resistor rating is by the color bands on it. There are usually 3-4 bands, but there could be as many as 6. If you have a smart phone, I highly recommend 'Electrodroid'. This little application is IMMENSELY useful for all electronics work. Primarily, it has an excellent resistor table that will let you ID any resistor with an interactive color chart.
You could go to radio shack and pay some stupid money for resistors, they are a penny or two anywhere else in the world except thru them. If you want a handful of 470's, I'll throw some in an envelope and mail them to you. I've got thousands on hand. PM or email me.
-t
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstar585Â

You could also look into creating a potential divider circuit out of two pre-calculated resistors that will drop the voltage down from 12v to 5v whilst supplying enough resistance to prevent you blowing the LED's...need to do the math like previously said but I feel It would be far easier to incorporate your 12v loop into your 5v loop.
just an idea though

Thanks both of you i'll give it a shot next week, i'll dig out my soldering iron too, yes i do already own one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliasOfMyselfÂ

Here's the question mentioned in the post above this one anyways lol..

I want to connect all 8 led's from the two stock fans for my scout to the sound controller, baring in mind that i can connect any 12v pre made set of led's to the outputs on the sound controller, and that it only has two outputs, so i'd be losing the other two cathodes til i can around to wiring a switch up for them to be wired to a molex etc, but based on a very distant and fragile memory, i believe the led's that are on the stock fans are 5v? what would i need to do/buy to add into the circuit so i don't fry them? thanks in advance n stuffs

I have a way of bypassing the fan to run them in 12v's give me a few and I'll post a how too. Or maybe Modeler can come up with an easier way from my pics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ModelersBrandÂ

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliasOfMyselfÂ

...i believe the led's that are on the stock fans are 5v? what would i need to do/buy to add into the circuit so i don't fry them? thanks in advance n stuffs

It sounds like you don't mind doing a little splicing and cutting, so here's my idea. Those LEDs should be 5v. Each LED likely has a resistor on one leg or the other. Cut that resistor off and solder in a 470ohm resistor on each LED That's it. The 470ohm will be good for 12v. If you want to get into some real math, then you could simply add the appropriate resistor on the main lead and avoid cutting out the old resistors.

Search the net for an 'LED Calculator' and you can plug your numbers into that to give you an idea of which new resistor you would need for that 7v difference. So if 5v needs, say, 200ohm, then you would need to add ~300 ohms to get the 470ohm minimum. They only come in specific sizes, so if there isn't a 270ohm in this example, you go up to the next rated number. Never less!

The way to tell the resistor rating is by the color bands on it. There are usually 3-4 bands, but there could be as many as 6. If you have a smart phone, I highly recommend 'Electrodroid'. This little application is IMMENSELY useful for all electronics work. Primarily, it has an excellent resistor table that will let you ID any resistor with an interactive color chart.

You could go to radio shack and pay some stupid money for resistors, they are a penny or two anywhere else in the world except thru them. If you want a handful of 470's, I'll throw some in an envelope and mail them to you. I've got thousands on hand. PM or email me.

-t

Please refer to my how to post and you'll see. The LED's are running into the fan PBC and all of them are running through a small resistor that says 101 then again through one that is labeled 0. The led's are connected to a 5v source stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solara2xbÂ

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInkÂ

What sata port do you have your ssd plugged in to? Your speeds are way too slow, you want that ssd plugged into the intel controller.
The back looks great but you cheated by having all the PSU wires in the front. Any reason you went this route? It would look much cleaner if you route them behind the MB tray. Then if you get a PSU and HDD cover, it would look great.

I have it plugged into the Intel Sata port using ACHI, From what I have read online and other forums the speed I am getting is about right for that drive.
I tried to route the PSU wires to the back but they didn't fit. The side panel won't close. Not enough space which is why I had to route them that way...

I am making covers for the PSU and HD cage.. when I have some more free time ill work on them a little more..

The back panel is a pain to get on, but it will go and won't bow out. I had to lay on mine to get it on. This was a long running joke for awhile, some even needed a second person. One to pretty much sit on it while the other slid it in place. If anyone has got the back side panel on with all your wires ran behind the MB tray and didn't have to fight it, I want pics on how you ran your wires. If you show a video of it being done, you get a promotion and it will be linked to the OP (custom length cables don't count)
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstar585Â

Quote:
Originally Posted by solara2xbÂ

I have it plugged into the Intel Sata port using ACHI, From what I have read online and other forums the speed I am getting is about right for that drive.
I tried to route the PSU wires to the back but they didn't fit. The side panel won't close. Not enough space which is why I had to route them that way...
I am making covers for the PSU and HD cage.. when I have some more free time ill work on them a little more..

They don't seem like they will fit but they will...My scout was the same but with a little brute force and ignorance I eventually got the back panel on. I have just got to put up with the fact it looks 6 months pregnant now

Way to tell the truth, integrity is a great thing!
Edited by GoodInk - 3/27/12 at 2:27pm
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Here is how you can wire your LED's in the stock fan to a 12 volt source. I'm not 100% sure that the LED's are 12 volts, but if they burn out they are easy to replace. You will need to bypass the fan PBC.

The LED's are just hot glued in place and come out easy after peeling the glue away.

You can cut the wire out, but it is glued in place, you can cut it out using a exacto knife, or cut the wire at the PBC and run jumper wires to the LED source wires. What ever works best for you, just make sure to insulate them from the PBC and each other so you don't get a short.

After looking at the fan, I believe you can wire in a RPM wire. On the other side of the PBC there is a chip. It looks like it is running off the 5 volt circuit and is tied in to the fan coils. I do know that some of the LED's are ran to the 12 volt ground, and my under standing is that means the LED's are running at 7v. If we have anyone that really knows this stuff please comment.

Here is the fan PBC, I have circled the resistors and all are labeled R# on the PBC. They are marked as 101 on the 4 and the one is marked 0. The one that is not circled is labeled D1 and is on the 12v circuit.

Edited by GoodInk - 3/27/12 at 3:19pm
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Yea, I am sure with I used a little more force I can get the back panel on with the cable back there.. but I didn't want my panel to bulge to much so I just did it the way I have it now... Its my Lan PC so it didn't bother me.. But if it was my primary PC I would have worked on it a little more to make it nice and clean. I use the scout as a carry around for Lan Parties so it works for what I need it for..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara2xbÂ

Yea, I am sure with I used a little more force I can get the back panel on with the cable back there.. but I didn't want my panel to bulge to much so I just did it the way I have it now... Its my Lan PC so it didn't bother me.. But if it was my primary PC I would have worked on it a little more to make it nice and clean. I use the scout as a carry around for Lan Parties so it works for what I need it for..

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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara2xbÂ

Yea, I am sure with I used a little more force I can get the back panel on with the cable back there.. but I didn't want my panel to bulge to much so I just did it the way I have it now... Its my Lan PC so it didn't bother me.. But if it was my primary PC I would have worked on it a little more to make it nice and clean. I use the scout as a carry around for Lan Parties so it works for what I need it for..

If you are happy that is what counts. Please take a second to fill out this short forum to get added to the Members List

Copy and paste this in to your sig
Code:
````:gunner2: [URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/525009/official-the-coolermaster-storm-scout-club] The Official CM Storm Scout Club[/URL] :gunner2:`
```
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliasOfMyselfÂ

thanks i got my controller off ebay like a year ago now, and it's been perfect, you can find them very very cheap with the molex cut off by some guy for modding onto a car or something, just put a molex back on and your good to go, anyways link below to the controller
SunbeamTech Sound Activated Module

Thanks for the link. I might try something with this......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara2xbÂ

Yea, I am sure with I used a little more force I can get the back panel on with the cable back there.. but I didn't want my panel to bulge to much so I just did it the way I have it now... Its my Lan PC so it didn't bother me.. But if it was my primary PC I would have worked on it a little more to make it nice and clean. I use the scout as a carry around for Lan Parties so it works for what I need it for..

When I had the Silencer MK II PSU in my rig, I found it really hard to get the panel on without difficulty. I found the best way to cable manage with the non-modular PSU is to put the unused cables through the bottom cut-out and stored in the HDD cage. You won't see any cables with the window panel on since the HDDs hide it. The other way, if you don't want to see any cables at all, is to zip tie them to motherboard tray but in a way that no cables are overlapping as any bulge will impede the door's ability to fit correctly. The 24-pin power connector fits the best if you run the cable through the bottom cut-out then through the top cut-out. You may have to take the front I/0 panel wiring out though to fit it. It takes a lot of trial and error so have tons of zip ties handy as the right side panel, even with the best cable layout, can be hard to put on. This is how I did mine:

The right side panel goes on nice and smooth.
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Quote:

I have a couple of rigs, My main one I use is my 700D that is custom painted. Built it last year.

You can see the specs in my profile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInkÂ

If you are happy that is what counts. Please take a second to fill out this short forum to get added to the Members List
Copy and paste this in to your sig
Code:
````:gunner2: [URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/525009/official-the-coolermaster-storm-scout-club] The Official CM Storm Scout Club[/URL] :gunner2:`
```

Nice!! Thanks..Ill fill that out when I have some time and also new pics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BranishÂ

When I had the Silencer MK II PSU in my rig, I found it really hard to get the panel on without difficulty. I found the best way to cable manage with the non-modular PSU is to put the unused cables through the bottom cut-out and stored in the HDD cage. You won't see any cables with the window panel on since the HDDs hide it. The other way, if you don't want to see any cables at all, is to zip tie them to motherboard tray but in a way that no cables are overlapping as any bulge will impede the door's ability to fit correctly. The 24-pin power connector fits the best if you run the cable through the bottom cut-out then through the top cut-out. You may have to take the front I/0 panel wiring out though to fit it. It takes a lot of trial and error so have tons of zip ties handy as the right side panel, even with the best cable layout, can be hard to put on. This is how I did mine:

The right side panel goes on nice and smooth.

Thats a clean wire management. I have my extra wires tucked away like you said right now in the HD cage at the bottom like you mentioned. Ill probably work on it more when I have more time..
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Hello i would like to join the club.

Here are some pictures of my build

Edited by Nortec - 3/28/12 at 1:11pm
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• [Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club