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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 706

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1861 Total Votes  
post #7051 of 28613
A fan story, I got my system back from DS and they transferred over the zalman fans that were in the other rig, they took out the stock side fan and put the 4 zalman 120's in the side panel. When I turned it on I got this massive Wirrrrrrrrrr sound.
There were 7, 120mm zalman fans in a Haf 932 case and one stock red front fan. It only took about a month of listening to that and I ordered the replacement fans Cooler Master blue 230 x 200mm that were supposed to be 900 rpm and 150cfm. I took out 5 of the buzz fans, put a 140mm Noctua in the back and the new blue large fans in the front and side panel. They're not 900rpm they're 775 and I've got 12V going to them and they aren't 150cfm they're only about 100cfm.
The only temp guide I have is folding, when I had the other fans in the temps got up around 66 to 70c and there was so much air being forced into the case that it came out the Haf's side louvers, the bottom fan hole and the one 5.25 bay that has a grill on it. I took the grill out one night and the temps dropped 4c! I replaced the fans and it's very quiet now and it run around 55 to 57c. Sometimes quiet is better. Maybe the fans need to draw the air around them, not just through them. I'm sure it helps having that Noctua in back blasting out hot air.
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post #7052 of 28613
I spent all day putting in the new PSU, it's running at 45 watts less than with the old 80+ plain Vanilla. The new one is the Enermax I posted a few weeks back, it's and 80+ silver but they call it an 85+ because they swear it won't get below 85% and from the reviews I read it must be true. It's definitly putting out a lot less heat, so that was 45watts that was just going up in heat. What a waste!!
So I re-routed all the cables, took out a bunch of garbolla that wasn't doing anything and cleaned it all up, cleaned off my desk. Oh, I re-wired the case lighting too, there were 2 CCFL's on the bottom. The new PSU is shorter and thinner so I moved one CCFL over and put the second one on top. Here's how we're looking now.

Attachment 147042
Now I need to learn to solder and replace those funky colored LED's in the drives.
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post #7053 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
Sometimes quiet is better. Maybe the fans need to draw the air around them, not just through them. I'm sure it helps having that Noctua in back blasting out hot air.
In my opinion, humble as it may be, air acts identical to water only without the extra mass. Fans running too fast without enough of a feed would cause cavitation, much like a boat prop, wasting much of the energy used to turn it. instead of the airflow being linear and smooth it becomes turbulent and inefficient. Also, much like the coolant in an automotive cooling system, if the coolant is moving too fast through the system it can't absorb enough heat to properly do it's job.That's why there is a thermostat. Not only does it control the temperature regulation it slows the coolant down so it can absorb the maximum amount of heat before it gets cooled by the radiator. The same with air in a closed system like a computer case. If it's ripping through the case too fast it goes right out the exhaust without becoming saturated enough with heat to cool the components. Sometime it's better to be the tortoise and not the hare.
    
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post #7054 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
Now I need to learn to solder and replace those funky colored LED's in the drives.
If you're gonna do it get yourself one of these http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062731 and when solder in the new leds use a 15watt iron so as not to burn the printed circuit. Believe me I know. I successfully changed out the light on one of my dvd drives and have successfully screwed up two more by burning the printed circuit. The drives still work just no activity light. Oh and you gotta be fast.
    
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post #7055 of 28613
Rockr, you pretty much expressed the theory of fluid dynamics without all the math and stuff people can't understand!
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post #7056 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriSleep View Post
Rockr, you pretty much expressed the theory of fluid dynamics without all the math and stuff people can't understand!
Thanks!
    
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post #7057 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockr69 View Post
If you're gonna do it get yourself one of these http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062731 and when solder in the new leds use a 15watt iron so as not to burn the printed circuit. Believe me I know. I successfully changed out the light on one of my dvd drives and have successfully screwed up two more by burning the printed circuit. The drives still work just no activity light. Oh and you gotta be fast.
Well that's really good to know. I got a 45 watt iron and a suction bulb. I've never soldered before so I was going to practice on some really old drives I have. Reminds me I need to post a pic of the oldest drive I ever worked on, I still have it, found out a few days ago cleaning up the back room. Oh, so I gotta get a lower watt iron and a de-soldering kit, then practice, then take apart my drives and find out what kind of LED's are in them.
The LED behind my water reservoir died, it was really bright so I think they overvolted it. Told Mindy tonight I'm never buying a computer again. I've spent too much time fixing stuff they should have got right the first time.

You're welcome, thanks for steering me straight before I ruined a bunch of PCB's.

Ah, maybe I got the hang of this picture thing, lets try this one.
Attachment 147047

Nope still puny.

Edited by BriSleep - 3/21/10 at 9:12pm
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post #7058 of 28613


Those are Great. They were brand new back in the eighties.. Heck a painter that I knew came up with the idea for the Power Painter. He was an Air Force troop too.
any way... Those suckie things really work at pulling the solder out. Works just as good as sucking thing out of kids noses. Same process. Although I think that 45 watts is not enough to do real solder melting. Especially that really hard solder they put on the Back of Graphics cards.
Edited by Enigma8750 - 3/21/10 at 9:06pm
    
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post #7059 of 28613
You're welcome Bri.
    
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post #7060 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockr69 View Post
In my opinion, humble as it may be, air acts identical to water only without the extra mass. Fans running too fast without enough of a feed would cause cavitation, much like a boat prop, wasting much of the energy used to turn it. instead of the airflow being linear and smooth it becomes turbulent and inefficient. Also, much like the coolant in an automotive cooling system, if the coolant is moving too fast through the system it can't absorb enough heat to properly do it's job.That's why there is a thermostat. Not only does it control the temperature regulation it slows the coolant down so it can absorb the maximum amount of heat before it gets cooled by the radiator. The same with air in a closed system like a computer case. If it's ripping through the case too fast it goes right out the exhaust without becoming saturated enough with heat to cool the components. Sometime it's better to be the tortoise and not the hare.
I wonder if they make a thermostat in the 360 Radiator set ups.. I think that would help too. or do you disagree.
    
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