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[Official] The CoolerMaster Storm Scout, Scout II Club - Page 981

Poll Results: What is your Overall Opinion on this case

 
  • 49% (927)
    Great
  • 30% (573)
    Good
  • 12% (226)
    Meh
  • 1% (27)
    Bad
  • 5% (108)
    SUX
1861 Total Votes  
post #9801 of 28613
. . . thank's Enigma8750, much appreciative and np's in sharing for other's out there.
Just a note= IF you look hard enough in the HHD bay, you'll notice i have "something" hidden for then....
i will see if i can find the photo's of it for showing, or MAYBE the upgrade of it.....
Otherwise, this setup I can remove and reinstall or install into another rigg's 5.25 bay,
IF i want to without taking apart's all the Fan & Rad setup...


mr-Charles .

.
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post #9802 of 28613
Has anyone noticed vibrations coming from the HDD bay in this case, cuz i have vibrations there and the only way to slow it down kinda is when i took a hammer and hammered some pressure to the left and right side of the Cage.
Edited by Matthew_Rocz - 5/28/10 at 10:57am
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post #9803 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by dead_buzzard View Post
OK! OK! Here are the pics!!!! I hope they are worthy enough to join the club!
I'm still waiting for my h50 cooler and my fans for the side panel. I sent back the V8 Cooler for the H50. Once she is finalized and running I'll try to post another pic.








Fan is hanging as i am waiting for the h50....
I did a horrible job at trying to get the cables to fit on the backside.....
GIVE ME YOUR INPUT GUYS.

Welcome to the CMSSC, buddy!

First, good choice on swapping the V8 for the H50. I think the V8 is a great, top-notch air cooler, but it can get a little cramped for space. The H50 opens up a lot of room for airflow.

As for some tips & tricks for cable management, like Rockr said, it'll come naturally over time, but here are some pointers to get the ball rolling...
  • Since you don't have your H50 installed yet, this would be a great time to work with directing a few cables to run underneath the motherboard. Between the bottom (back) of the motherboard and the front of the motherboard tray. This is typically used for cables that are running from Front I/O to Motherboard. Since your H50 isn't installed yet, you have time to take out the motherboard and work on those (cause it's tough to do it afterwards).
  • For to cable located at the top of your board (looks like your 6 pin CPU), you should be able to run that cable through the opening for your CPU backplate. In turn that will hide the cable much more, instead of running it across the top of the board.
  • As for the rest of the cables, Molex, SATA, and PCI-E, you'll want to run them through the bottom hole, next to your PSU. Out, behind the motherboard tray, and bring them back around through the front. This is where your "playing" will begin. As Enigma said, get yourself some zip-ties from the hardware store (I recommend black colored ones), and use your imagination.
  • It will get cluttered back there. We all have our little methods of getting that side panel to close with all those cables there, but just remember, stay patient. For example, I pop in a movie, and sit down with your scissors and your zip-ties, and get ready to spend about 2+ hours figuring the cables out.
  • Some common tools that has worked for some of us are NZXT Cable Extenders. Personally, I use them for my 4-pin fan cables, 24-pin ATX, and my PCI-E. Why? Because they come pre-sleeved with gives you a nice stealth look, and the extension gives you more breathing room when wrapping cables through all those holes and turns.

Good job with your build, and have fun working the fine details of your rig!

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post #9804 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Rocz View Post
Has anyone noticed vibrations coming from the HDD bay in this case, cuz i have vibrations there and the only way to slow it down kinda is when i took a hammer and hammered some pressure to the left and right side.
No, sorry, I have not experienced this with the CM Scout.

Off the top of my head, I would assume the source is either the tool-less hard drive bay shaking, or its the HDD cage itself. Keep in mind, the HDD cage is locked into the case via rivets, not screws. Hopefully its the bays and not the cage.

My first attempt at a solution would be to isolate the source of the vibration, and try using some padding or insulation in key areas (of course, without compromising the integrity of any hardware).
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post #9805 of 28613
Thanks

I think i Might work on the cables this weekend. I did find me a package of black zip ties. Im not sure if i should leave the stock red led light on the back and replace the stock Corsair fan with my VM fan. I did order two for the side panel or the radiator.

One big problem I have is the video card the power needs to be plugged in the back side and its way close to the hdd case.. well I tried to feed some of the cables through the slot too.
My First One
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post #9806 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee413 View Post
No, sorry, I have not experienced this with the CM Scout.

Off the top of my head, I would assume the source is either the tool-less hard drive bay shaking, or its the HDD cage itself. Keep in mind, the HDD cage is locked into the case via rivets, not screws. Hopefully its the bays and not the cage.

My first attempt at a solution would be to isolate the source of the vibration, and try using some padding or insulation in key areas (of course, without compromising the integrity of any hardware).
Ahh thanks. lol i didnt damage anything though. but i seemed to stop it by the hammer. it was just pissing me off. vibrating my whole case with a loud humming sound.
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post #9807 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by dead_buzzard View Post
Thanks

I think i Might work on the cables this weekend. I did find me a package of black zip ties. Im not sure if i should leave the stock red led light on the back and replace the stock Corsair fan with my VM fan. I did order two for the side panel or the radiator.

One big problem I have is the video card the power needs to be plugged in the back side and its way close to the hdd case.. well I tried to feed some of the cables through the slot too.
  • The red LED fan(s). For the one in the rear, big heads up, to remove it you will need to remove the top of the Scout because of the wire that connects to the front I/O's button to switch the LED on/off. For the most part, you could always use the stock fan because with the H50 radiator, you should set up a "Push/Pull" scenario. Although, whether your choose to run the radiator as intank or exhaust, is up for discussion (as always).

  • If you have a Fry's near by, you should go check out the NZXT PCI-E Cable Extender at Fry's. The reason I say to go into the store, is so you can sort of play with the extender, and see its flexibility. Getting the hands on feel of it should give you a better idea if it would help the tight fight between the GPU and the HDD Cage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Rocz View Post
Ahh thanks. lol i didnt damage anything though. but i seemed to stop it by the hammer. it was just pissing me off. vibrating my whole case with a loud humming sound.
  • Problem solved? Great!
  • I would hate to hear that noise as well.. Which brings me to my next post...
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post #9808 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker36 View Post
yes. in this application i would agree its just about perfect. but not in trucks....



oh em gee! i want 2. in SLI
FOLD WITH IT!! lol
 
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post #9809 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma8750 View Post
men... Now this here is my next video card..

this i mean!
 
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Silicon Lottery i7 4790k 4.8 GHz Asus Maxiumus VII Hero Asus GTX 970 4GB Strix 16 GBKingston Hyper X 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Corsair Neutron XT 480 GB [1] WD Red 4TB [Data] [1] Seagate Firecuda 2TB [Games] Noctua NH-D15S 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 pro Asus VG248QE 120 Hz Lightboost Enabled Logitech G810 Corsair AX760 
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Fractal Design Define R4 Logitech G Pro AudioEngine D1 DAC ATM-M50 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Asus 990FX Sabertooth PNY GTX 570 1280 MB 6 GB Corsair DDR3 1333 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Seagate 500 GB LG DVD R/W Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Windows 7 Pro 
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post #9810 of 28613
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee413 View Post
  • The red LED fan(s). For the one in the rear, big heads up, to remove it you will need to remove the top of the Scout because of the wire that connects to the front I/O's button to switch the LED on/off. For the most part, you could always use the stock fan because with the H50 radiator, you should set up a "Push/Pull" scenario. Although, whether your choose to run the radiator as intank or exhaust, is up for discussion (as always).

  • If you have a Fry's near by, you should go check out the NZXT PCI-E Cable Extender at Fry's. The reason I say to go into the store, is so you can sort of play with the extender, and see its flexibility. Getting the hands on feel of it should give you a better idea if it would help the tight fight between the GPU and the HDD Cage.


  • Problem solved? Great!
  • I would hate to hear that noise as well.. Which brings me to my next post...
Hey Clee, I just want to make a minor correction. You don't actually have to remove the top plastic piece of the Scout to remove that fan. There's a molex and a proprietary connector for the LEDs on that fan. Just disconnect the two wires and no need to remove any other piece. If anything, you may find it easier to remove the 140mm exhaust fan to get the cables out, but I don't believe it's necessary.
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