Originally Posted by Rockr69
No I never heard of that. I'm getting the FF code regardless of what I try. I've tried all memory slots, no video card or anything connected to the board at all except the CPU and 1 RAM module. I'm thinking I got sent a used bad board. There are many things that point to this assumption. For instance; MSI sent out a whole "new" retail package however the box had no seal and looked like it had been opened, beacause the locking tab on the box is torn in the corner like someone pulled on the flap instead of sliding out the tab first. Also, the grounding beads around the screw holes are completely crushed flat. Plus I found a small burnt looking blister on the back of the board down by the sata ports. I'm reluctant to say the CPU went bad when the first board died, because while diagnosing this board I installed the AMD HS and fan. I left the fan unplugged and could feel the HS getting warm to the point that I plugged in the fan and when the chip cooled the fan slowed down. I know I should try the CPU in a confirmed working board, but when I called the local shops and asked if they could test it I was told "We don't have a way to test CPUs" and I don't know of anyone who has an AM3 board for me try so my heat test is the only confirmation that the CPU still works. It's not much but it's all I got.
i sometimes get an FF error from a failed overclock usually involving the cpu or imc, usually this happens if ive really pushed them too far,
a standard cmos clear usually sorts that out but not always, sometimes i have to leave my psu on so theres power to the board before it will clear the cmos and even then ive got to press it a few times before it will actually clear it,
i also had the FF error last week after buying some more ram so i could compare it to the ram im currently using in my sig rig,
after some investigating it turned out that one of the sticks was bad, basicly one worked fine and the other one would just cause the board to display FF, i tried running the good stick and then upping the voltage and then putting the bad stick in to see if that would work but no joy so there being rma'd,
i'd try those two things first, and then think about rma'ing your hardware.