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post #7301 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Matrix View Post
As previously written, I'm with 1.13 bios and X15 cpu-nb for a week. The PC turns on perfectly.

Before that, with the 965C3 and the same board, I still had cold boot issue with CPU-NB at X14 or even less.
LOL_- I read that TOTALLY Wrong!!! So it is more related to the CPU... Than the Board!? Got it!

Sorry for misreading that! sometimes I start thinking about what I'm going to reply with before I finish reading the info. Obviously THAT can hinder my response!!! LOL



Okay, So I'm running my CPU with BIOS 1.10 Official and I'm over 12 hours stable on P95 SmallFFT's @ 4.1ghz (205 x 20) with CPU Voltage set to 1.49v. Registers at full load as 1.472v (CPU-Z). So does everest round to the "nearest" decimal point I assume. If the Volts are over .05v of .x Volts it rounds the votls up. If lower than .05v it rounds down... Interesting...
Edited by Mastiffman - 8/7/10 at 9:47am
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post #7302 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopxsticks View Post
sorry Mastiffman I mean the G.skill Eco in particular. there timings are lower and I keep reading good things. Newegg only has ripjaws in 4gig sticks, that I can see anyways.

Thanks for the waterblock though, gonna read up on those, they look nice
If you really need 8GB of ram the G-Skill Tridents come in 2x4GB and are better than the ECOs. ECOs are great for the price but don't overclock much higher than stock.

What are you doing that requires this much ram?
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post #7303 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnoCrat View Post
If you really need 8GB of ram the G-Skill Tridents come in 2x4GB and are better than the ECOs. ECOs are great for the price but don't overclock much higher than stock.

What are you doing that requires this much ram?
Nothing, I really just wanted to say I had 8gigs. Been saving for some time now and it doesn't seem to costly these days. I'll look into Tridents though, thanks

Hmm so what exactly makes the Tridents worth $399 vs buying 4 sticks for $200?

Also I don't really OC my RAM so much, if ever, so headroom to OC was not in my thought process at the time
Edited by Chopxsticks - 8/7/10 at 12:54pm
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post #7304 of 9641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiffman View Post

You may have some build up restricting water flow... When was the last time that you flushed your system? Sometimes Dust buildup in the Rad Fins can insulate the Rad. Dust on fans or around the CPU Socket itself can cause insulation. Even buildup inside the CPU Block can do this.
well I am going to run some cleaner through It again and am also looking at a D5 or equiv. Right now i am running my eheim 1250 about same as a D5 with less head.
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post #7305 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipseaudio4 View Post
well I am going to run some cleaner through It again and am also looking at a D5 or equiv. Right now i am running my eheim 1250 about same as a D5 with less head.

What is the Flow rate on this Pump? I'm looking for a new one with better flow and head.....

I've been looking at the Sw.Tech. 655... I bet I could drop my load temps a bit further with a better pump. I want a new res. too!
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post #7306 of 9641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiffman View Post
What is the Flow rate on this Pump? I'm looking for a new one with better flow and head.....

I've been looking at the Sw.Tech. 655... I bet I could drop my load temps a bit further with a better pump. I want a new res. too!
flow rate is 1200 l/h but it is an AC pump and head is only 6ft. I also want a new res as mine is homemade PVC I am looking at the 655/D5(same pump) and am thinking about running both my 1250 and the 655 with a y split for added flow... I am already running 1/2 tubing and fittings so I can really go any higher there.

My only other concern is that maybe my 965 is just that "non-flat"

I wonder what the difference if any in heat is between my 965(C2) (140W) and a 1055T or 1099T is...
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post #7307 of 9641
Thread Starter 
1055T and 1090T users please add your data to the OP google spreadsheet!
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post #7308 of 9641
Hey I was just looking at the voltage checkpoints linked here & on the OP and I did not see any instructions. So w/that in mind I was just wondering if the red dot's represent where I would place my posative DMM lead and the grey dot's represent where I would place my negative DMM terminal? Has any one successfully tested the onboard voltage using the images listed in the link ^ up there and how much do the actual DMM voltages fluctuate from what software readings display?
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post #7309 of 9641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
Hey I was just looking at the voltage checkpoints linked here & on the OP and I did not see any instructions. So w/that in mind I was just wondering if the red dot's represent where I would place my posative DMM lead and the grey dot's represent where I would place my negative DMM terminal? Has any one successfully tested the onboard voltage using the images listed in the link ^ up there and how much do the actual DMM voltages fluctuate from what software readings display?
IIRC you are correct in that the red is positive and gray is negative.

Also IIRC my V fluctuations were ~.008

now this is just going from memory from quite a while ago. If it were not for the fact that I would have to remove my second card I would check for ya right now.
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post #7310 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipseaudio4 View Post
IIRC you are correct in that the red is positive and gray is negative.

Also IIRC my V fluctuations were ~.008

now this is just going from memory from quite a while ago. If it were not for the fact that I would have to remove my second card I would check for ya right now.
OK thank you. I don't need any one to remove hardware for my sake, I'm quite happy w/your response. For now I'm just trying to gather as much info as possible before I choose which ram to purchase and get her motor running for the first time.
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