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post #7811 of 9641
Sad news to share with ya guys. I was overclocking my 95W 1055T the other night and bumped the vcore a bit further then usual, in between about 1.55v and 1.60v to find a stable 4.2GHz overclock and without any warning my computer shuts off in the middle of stress testing. I hit the power switch to turn it back on but instead the LEDs and fans make a faint attempt to come back to life for a split second and then nothing.

At first my mind had panicked thinking I fried my processor but I knew this was not the case since my temperatures were clearly in the safe zone (never broke past 55C and this chip is made to withstand up to 71C max) but to be sure I swapped in my old 955 and still nothing. After ruling the CPU out I start testing my HX750 power supply by disconnecting the plugs from all my components except the fans and jump starting it with a paper clip.. to my suprise all the fans kick right on normal as can be.

Now for the motherboard, it turns out that after uninstalling and observing it I notice that the 8-Pin cpu connector/power regulation area fried. To assure this I connected only the 24-pin connector (without the 8-pin) to the board with no cpu/ram and all LEDs light up, but when I try it with the 8-Pin connected as the same time I get no dice. R.I.P. 790FX-GD70, I will always remember the long nights we've spent together overclocking.

Aside from my tragic loss there is good news, my one year warranty doesn't expire until the 30th of this month . I've already requested an online RMA and should be getting an email from MSI shortly, thanks for reading guys.
Edited by Regamaster - 10/5/10 at 9:24am
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post #7812 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by thealex132 View Post
I suggest you get some Corsair Dominators 1600Mhz CL7-8-7-20 2x2Gb(no more than 2 sticks as AMD boards don't have triple channel yet)
Dominators can be overclocked very nicely and AMD prefers lower timings to higher Mhz.

Dominator link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-290-_-Product

Also Mushkin is a very good company btw
Mushkin Enhanced Ridgeback 6-8-6-24: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-123-_-Product
Thanks for the tips.

I think I may actually give my Mushkin 996601 another chance. You guys seem to highly recommend it, maybe I should just save my money and fiddle with the volts more.

Heres what I'm at:

CPU 3.4GHz
CPU-NB 2600MHz
HT Link Freq 2000MHz
RAM 1333MHz 6-6-6-18-1T Unganged
CPU : 1.365
CPU-NB : 1.370
DRAM: 1.9
NB-V: 1.2
HT Link V : 1.3

Do you guys think I can get away with less volts? I really don't want to overclock right now.. I just want to keep it at stock speeds with as little as volts as possible.

I ran OCCT for about 20 minutes last night before bed and everything seemed fine. Temps got up to 50C for the CPU and 73C for the NB but I'm not sure if Speedfan is reading the NB right.
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post #7813 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
Thanks for the tips.

I think I may actually give my Mushkin 996601 another chance. You guys seem to highly recommend it, maybe I should just save my money and fiddle with the volts more.

Heres what I'm at:

CPU 3.4GHz
CPU-NB 2600MHz
HT Link Freq 2000MHz
RAM 1333MHz 6-6-6-18-1T Unganged
CPU : 1.365
CPU-NB : 1.370
DRAM: 1.9
NB-V: 1.2
HT Link V : 1.3

Do you guys think I can get away with less volts? I really don't want to overclock right now.. I just want to keep it at stock speeds with as little as volts as possible.

I ran OCCT for about 20 minutes last night before bed and everything seemed fine. Temps got up to 50C for the CPU and 73C for the NB but I'm not sure if Speedfan is reading the NB right.
Why not? My RAM's stock are 1.65v but I'm running it overclocked and lower timings at 1.5v Try push it and just stress test with SuperPi or MaxxMem or even the BIOS stress tester for RAM.
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post #7814 of 9641
Do you suggest OCCT? I've been mainly using that running Large Data Sets.

I'm stress testing right now at DRAM 1.81V - so far so good..
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post #7815 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
Do you suggest OCCT? I've been mainly using that running Large Data Sets.

I'm stress testing right now at DRAM 1.81V - so far so good..
Not sure if I'm right.

I was able to produce/identify more errors(instability) using prime95.

I always stick to OCCT, however even though it says it is stable for 6 hours, with the same settings, i will fail the test in prime95 almost immediately

EDIT: small fft tests
Edited by NYM - 10/5/10 at 6:31pm
post #7816 of 9641
Hmm interesting, what did you do? Trust OCCT or tweak your settings since it failed Prime95?

My whole thing is if I can play a game and be stable I'm happy.
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post #7817 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
Hmm interesting, what did you do? Trust OCCT or tweak your settings since it failed Prime95?

My whole thing is if I can play a game and be stable I'm happy.
I trusted OCCT, but after a few days, i crash/BSOD/hang even after opening one FIREFOX only.

Hence it seems that it isn't very reliable for me. I'm trying out prime95 now.

i was @1.34v @ 3.6ghz. I thought it was really stable after 6hours of OCCT. It was a joke

quote from a reputable member from Overclock.net who gave me this piece of advice,
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
You're not stable if you're only running Small FFT's. You need to pass (IMO) at LEAST 12 hours of Prime95 blended. If you keep crashing, make note of the BSOD. If its a different BSOD each time, its likely a memory or IMC issue (so up your CPU-NB volts or vDIMM). If it just shuts off, its likely the CPU, so up your vcore.

EDIT:
For the record, I passed 8 hours of blended, and BSOD'd shortly after. I myself considered it stable too (like you're doing now). 10 minutes into GTA IV, and I would BSOD. Once I got it stable enough to pass 12 hours of blended.....no more crashing in game.
EDIT: everyone have their preference, so yea, you can decide
Edited by NYM - 10/5/10 at 9:14pm
post #7818 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velcrowchickensoup View Post
Didnt see the "might" haha.
Np man, just wanted to clear it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmh69 View Post
Hi guys, I just wanna ask if theres an option in the bios, in which you can disble or turn off the the blue led lights.. thanks
It's in Green Power (Motherboard LED Control).

Quote:
Originally Posted by thealex132 View Post
What really? Even the CPU Phase, NB Phase ETC LED indicators?
It turns off all the blue LEDS, but the ambient CPU temp LED, red hard drive LED, and also the green LED for the Power On/Off and Reset buttons are kept always on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
So you have everything set to auto besides what you've listed?

I'm using the 996601 model which I think is only rated for 1.9V.
It's rated for 1600mhz 7-7-6-18 timings, so try setting it to those rated settings. If you're gonna lower it to 1333mhz, try using 6-6-5-18-23 timings or whatever CPU-Z might report in tighter timings.

Kind off like my RAM CAS 7 @1600mhz (far left) vs CAS 6 @ 1333mhz (far right)


Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
Thanks for the tips.

I think I may actually give my Mushkin 996601 another chance. You guys seem to highly recommend it, maybe I should just save my money and fiddle with the volts more.

Heres what I'm at:

CPU 3.4GHz
CPU-NB 2600MHz
HT Link Freq 2000MHz
RAM 1333MHz 6-6-6-18-1T Unganged
CPU : 1.365
CPU-NB : 1.370
DRAM: 1.9
NB-V: 1.2
HT Link V : 1.3

Do you guys think I can get away with less volts? I really don't want to overclock right now.. I just want to keep it at stock speeds with as little as volts as possible.

I ran OCCT for about 20 minutes last night before bed and everything seemed fine. Temps got up to 50C for the CPU and 73C for the NB but I'm not sure if Speedfan is reading the NB right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitMobber View Post
Hmm interesting, what did you do? Trust OCCT or tweak your settings since it failed Prime95?

My whole thing is if I can play a game and be stable I'm happy.
Good decision in keeping the RAM. Saves you a ton of money and you get to learn more about your system. I also consider gaming stable, as good enough, especially since I never crash if it is gaming stable, despite failing LinX/Prime95 stress tests. I suggest you lower your CPU-NB voltage somewhere between 1.25-1.3v (Mastiffman suggested that as the stock voltage for 2600mhz).

***Note that you should set your HT Link Control to 16bit both ways; in DRAM advanced settings, you should have Bank Interleaving disabled; lastly, in Advanced BIOS menu, look for C1E support and disable that.

Here some pictures of my BIOS settings (v1.9):
Ignore what I set for CPU PLL Voltage.






Edited by Kokin - 10/5/10 at 11:27pm
    
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post #7819 of 9641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Regamaster View Post
Sad news to share with ya guys. I was overclocking my 95W 1055T the other night and bumped the vcore a bit further then usual, in between about 1.55v and 1.60v to find a stable 4.2GHz overclock and without any warning my computer shuts off in the middle of stress testing. I hit the power switch to turn it back on but instead the LEDs and fans make a faint attempt to come back to life for a split second and then nothing.

At first my mind had panicked thinking I fried my processor but I knew this was not the case since my temperatures were clearly in the safe zone (never broke past 55C and this chip is made to withstand up to 71C max) but to be sure I swapped in my old 955 and still nothing. After ruling the CPU out I start testing my HX750 power supply by disconnecting the plugs from all my components except the fans and jump starting it with a paper clip.. to my suprise all the fans kick right on normal as can be.

Now for the motherboard, it turns out that after uninstalling and observing it I notice that the 8-Pin cpu connector/power regulation area fried. To assure this I connected only the 24-pin connector (without the 8-pin) to the board with no cpu/ram and all LEDs light up, but when I try it with the 8-Pin connected as the same time I get no dice. R.I.P. 790FX-GD70, I will always remember the long nights we've spent together overclocking.

Aside from my tragic loss there is good news, my one year warranty doesn't expire until the 30th of this month . I've already requested an online RMA and should be getting an email from MSI shortly, thanks for reading guys.
when you get the new board back...reset the nb and vrm heat sink. make sure theres like a print mark on the vrm thermal pad. if you wnana be extra safe...add a spot fan on the heat sink of the northbridge or vrm. most likely you blew out the vrm cause it got hot due to the x6. oh well.
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post #7820 of 9641
Hey guys

What are the chances that your CPU Voltage is equal/or ever lower than your CPU-NB Voltage?

Any conflicts or whatsoever?

Currently running prime blended, I set my CPU-NB to 1.30 in bios, show as 1.33-1.35 in Everest. My CPU Voltage is currently 1.380 in bios, show as 1.35 in Everest
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