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Official- Heatkiller Club - Page 19

post #181 of 1641
heatkiller 3.0 & BIGTX360
Silent But Deadly
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Silent But Deadly
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post #182 of 1641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyric View Post
Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Block
bitspower mosfets block + bitspower nb/sb block

here are some pictures, and a link to my first crappy put together work log, lol.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...7-920-haf.html

I've yet to be added, just wondering.
RavenV2
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RavenV2
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post #183 of 1641
Juggalo23451 is the OP, so he will add you when he gets on next. Hes pretty good about it. No worries, youll get added. Nice build btw.
post #184 of 1641
heatkiller arrived.



Radiator is XSPC RX360 with Bitspower Compression fittings

Build log (in progress) here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tcs-840-a.html
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post #185 of 1641
CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 Cu Rev. 3 / 1366 backplate

Mobo: EK-FB 760 full block

Radiator: Behr BMW E36 (92-99 325i,M3 etc.) radiator
560mm*432mm + end tanks, double row aluminum, plastic end tanks with drain plug and thermostat bung, 22 fins per inch.

16" Spal puller fan 1300-2200 cfm.
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My System
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2*WD3000HLFS RAID0,2*WD1001FALS RAID0,WD1500AHFD GH22LS30 * 2 Windows 7 Pro x64 LG W3000H 
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post #186 of 1641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockadile Dundee View Post
CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 Cu Rev. 3 / 1366 backplate

Mobo: EK-FB 760 full block

Radiator: Behr BMW E36 (92-99 325i,M3 etc.) radiator
560mm*432mm + end tanks, double row aluminum, plastic end tanks with drain plug and thermostat bung, 22 fins per inch.

16" Spal puller fan 1300-2200 cfm.
Id like to see pictures of that.
post #187 of 1641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4i7 View Post
Id like to see pictures of that.
This is a story about why the rig was not assembled long enough to take pictures of it in-action and complete, but I could show the rad. setup, and everything but the mobo till the replacement arrives.

Ok, everything has been disassembled to replace the TIM and install the blocks. I am RMA'ing the mobo because when I removed the stock NB/SB heatsink, the southbridge (ICH10R) chip had a corner broken off, about 1 square mm in size missing; you could see the crystalline structure.
Interestingly, the missing fragment was not stuck in the TIM or in the antistatic bag, so it didn't happen in shipping. It worked just fine as far as I know (I had been air-cooling while waiting for my parts), so I installed the blocks, set everything up and was in denial about what I had seen; I didn't want to give up my new god-like monolith of power.
After a couple days, I realized that with repeated heat cycling and water block re-mountings, cracks could propagate from the damaged area, or it just wouldn't last as long and mayne even hurt performance. Newegg is paying shipping both ways because it's considered "defective".

I can take pics of the radiator with homemade 54mm to G 1/4 1/2" "adapters". They are made from those clear orange pharmaceutical bottles which happen to be the exact same OD as the rad in/out OD, and utilizing a cut section of the old rad. hose.
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My System
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2*WD3000HLFS RAID0,2*WD1001FALS RAID0,WD1500AHFD GH22LS30 * 2 Windows 7 Pro x64 LG W3000H 
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post #188 of 1641
I'll try to take a camera phone picture today, but I installed a Heatkiller GPU-X² for my GTX-285 a couple days ago.
R'lyeh
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R'lyeh
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post #189 of 1641
Heatkiller 3.0 Cu & GTX295 co-ops hydrocopper waterblock base


Behr E36 Radiator, 7950gt for scale and "adapter/reducer'



Fan / automotive fan connector<--what is this connector type called?


If you notice, that connector's plug "blades", one is vertical, the other horizontal if that helps id it.
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2*WD3000HLFS RAID0,2*WD1001FALS RAID0,WD1500AHFD GH22LS30 * 2 Windows 7 Pro x64 LG W3000H 
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My System
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i7 920 D0 3849B018 4420 MHz P6T7 WS GTX295 CoOp HydroCopper 691/1440/1224 Super-Talent Chrome @ 1691 7-7-7-21 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2*WD3000HLFS RAID0,2*WD1001FALS RAID0,WD1500AHFD GH22LS30 * 2 Windows 7 Pro x64 LG W3000H 
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Logitech EX 100 Corsair HX1000W Cardboard Box 3000 Death Adder 
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post #190 of 1641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockadile Dundee View Post

Fan / automotive fan connector<--what is this connector type called?


If you notice, that connector's plug "blades", one is vertical, the other horizontal if that helps id it.
What its called isnt important. As your not going to be able to use the connector for anything. Do you have a model number for the fan. That way someone can look up the specs, and see what type of power it draws. Your going to need to find a way to power it. These automotive fans usually have multiple speeds, ranging from ~1000 rpms to as high as ~5000 rpms. Since your going to be running it off of some sort of power supply your going to need to figure out how much amperage its going to draw. You might be able to use a computer psu, but its more then likely going to have to be dedicated. Send info on the fan and we will go from there.

On a second thought, your going to need to also rethink your reducer for your radiator. Is that a barb wrapped in pluming tape? Its kinda hard to tell. Im not sure if thats going to be strong enough to hold pressure.
Edited by Jason4i7 - 8/16/09 at 10:38am
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