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post #191 of 1636
Worth while lapping a Heatkiller ??
     
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post #192 of 1636
Quote:
Originally Posted by BioHzrd View Post
Worth while lapping a Heatkiller ??
HESmelaugh tried lapping the HK 3.0, and that raised temps by 1.3 degrees. His advice: don't do it.

The copper base on my LT is slightly discolored, but I'll never see it anyway.
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post #193 of 1636
Lapped mine and saw temps drop. Just make sure you remove the contact plate BEFORE lapping.
 
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post #194 of 1636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4i7 View Post
What its called isnt important. As your not going to be able to use the connector for anything. Do you have a model number for the fan. That way someone can look up the specs, and see what type of power it draws. Your going to need to find a way to power it. These automotive fans usually have multiple speeds, ranging from ~1000 rpms to as high as ~5000 rpms. Since your going to be running it off of some sort of power supply your going to need to figure out how much amperage its going to draw. You might be able to use a computer psu, but its more then likely going to have to be dedicated. Send info on the fan and we will go from there.

On a second thought, your going to need to also rethink your reducer for your radiator. Is that a barb wrapped in pluming tape? Its kinda hard to tell. Im not sure if thats going to be strong enough to hold pressure.
It is called a va18-ap10/c-41a 12v low profile puller. It has a waterproof motor & and is balanced like a wheel, with a little weight. I think at 2200cfm you need 24v; 1330 at 13v , 8.5a , 7.5psi static pressure.
The spec sheet pdf:
http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30100400_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
At 13v 15psi-0cfm-8a, 7.5psi-1330cfm-8.5a, 0psi-2200cfm-7.5a

The power supply is an Antec Truepower 2.0 550w. Dual 12v rails 19a max each, 36a combined total, 530watt combined total.
Can I just splice it into the one of the 12v rails?
I also have a D5 running on this, but no other fans, I have a 10" Honeywell normal "table" fan, which seems to have very high static pressure pointed at the rad on the wall socket. Hottest core on the 920 d0 is 47c at 3.6GHz so it was fine for the moment.

The plumbers tape is over rtv sealant which had a small weeping leak, it stopped it. I have already been using it, it works fine for the moment, but it needs to be improved upon greatly, yes.

Edit: The highest indicated temperature on any one core was 47c at 3.6 GHz. If there is anything that the "Truth about voltages & TjMax" thread, it's that an indicated temp of 47c can only be considered "under 50c" according to Intel, so it could be even cooler, but probably not much warmer imo.
Edited by Clockadile Dundee - 8/16/09 at 5:00pm
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post #195 of 1636
I am building a radbox for this fan now.
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post #196 of 1636
Count me into the club =)



Heatkiller 3.0 + GTX 360
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post #197 of 1636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma View Post
Count me into the club =)

Heatkiller 3.0 + GTX 360
Why is the SS plate, the cheese in the copper sandwich, a different pattern than other 3.0 blocks I have seen.
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post #198 of 1636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockadile Dundee View Post
Why is the SS plate, the cheese in the copper sandwich, a different pattern than other 3.0 blocks I have seen.
That Heatkiller was designed for an AMD socket 754/939/AM2 motherboard rather than an Intel one.
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post #199 of 1636
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Me View Post
That Heatkiller was designed for an AMD socket 754/939/AM2 motherboard rather than an Intel one.
I would have gotten the other one but didn't for obvious reasons. Sadly I did not know of the superiority of Intel quads at the time of cpu purchase. I assumed that as usual AMD was a step ahead, boy was I living in the past.
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post #200 of 1636
Count me in!


Sadly, I messed up my reservoir when I was trying to move some stuff around. I screwed the threads on the top barb, and the threads on the res up. Basically, it is stripped out, and leaks very very slowly. I ordered a new res, and it should be here before the weekend!
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