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Official- Heatkiller Club - Page 42

post #411 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4i7;13677452 
I would move the radiators apart. go pump to radiator, to cpu to rad to gpu's them to res.

Pump-320-cpu-320-gpu-res.

This may help your temps, going from rad to rad has show to have little to no improved drop in tempratures. Being able to isolate the cpu temps from your gpu temps should help lower total system temps. By running your cpu temps into your gpus after being heated once, just means the temps are going to get thet much higher.

The only thing that I needed to change was to rotate the cpu block 90 degrees to the left. After I did that my temps went WAY down and everthing is normal now. The block was hitting on the caps and I didn't realize it, so it was not making full contact with the cpu.
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post #412 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostRiderZG;13677895 
The only thing that I needed to change was to rotate the cpu block 90 degrees to the left. After I did that my temps went WAY down and everthing is normal now. The block was hitting on the caps and I didn't realize it, so it was not making full contact with the cpu.

Really glad you figured it out. So you rotated your block that the ports are now facing sideways? I see a lot of people doing that and glad its working for you. I still enjoy the way it looks that way. But that just opinion.
post #413 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4i7;13677955 
Really glad you figured it out. So you rotated your block that the ports are now facing sideways? I see a lot of people doing that and glad its working for you. I still enjoy the way it looks that way. But that just opinion.

You can see the caps in this picture on the left side of the block:

2551109010089617845S600x600Q85.jpg

Then I rotated the block and now the block makes full contact with the cpu:

2830593600089617845S600x600Q85.jpg

I didn't even take the time to put new tim back on, just unscrewed it, rotated it and screwed it back down. I thought if it didn't work then I didn't waste time redoing the tim. lol

I reran Prime95 and the cpu never got past 45c where before it was hitting 85c.
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post #414 of 1625
I'd like to be added to the club... Just got an HK 3.0 ni-bl
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post #415 of 1625
bd0351617373.jpg

5ebe1afc3ad8.jpg

cba3540d1379.jpg

1c8be7486707.jpg

4168268e7ea8.jpg

HEATKILLER® forever!!
post #416 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accept View Post

bd0351617373.jpg
7ffe5dbc470f.jpg
5ebe1afc3ad8.jpg
cba3540d1379.jpg
1c8be7486707.jpg
4168268e7ea8.jpg
HEATKILLER® forever!!
post #417 of 1625
Back from the deads wave2.gif

Anybody could direct me to a picture of a CU Heatkiller with trim and brackets painted black? I would like to avoid going through all 40 pages of pictures biggrin.gif
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post #418 of 1625
tastey

008.jpg
Edited by sli_shroom - 2/24/12 at 6:57pm
    
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phenom ii x6 1100t gigabyte ga990fxa ud5 gigabyte 480gtx gigabyte 480gtx 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
evga 480gtx corsair vengence ddr3 1600 ocz agility 3 sdd ocz agility 3 sdd 
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maxtor hdd asus blu-ray reader/burner xspc ex360 rad (x2)  swiftec mcp655 pump w/bitspower pump kit and v2... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
laing d5 pump w/bitspower pump kit and v2 pump top heatkiller cpu block koolance nv480gtx full vga blocks ek northbridge block 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
lamptron fc5 bitspower 150 black ice reservoir vista ultimate 64 bit asus s248h-p hdmi led 
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acer x183h acer x183h corsair k60 mechanical silverstone strider 1000 silver 
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post #419 of 1625
Anyone know if the heatkiller is socket 2011 compatible?
post #420 of 1625
The socket 1366 version is compatible with socket 2011. You will have to get a 2011 back-plate, but is well worth it!
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