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liquid cooling

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
i might buy this, i know it cooling your cpu, but i am worried about it cooling the chipset as well. can any-1 help me.


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...1104&CatId=499
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post #2 of 15
You could add a north bridge waterblock yourself, but the "radiator" might not be able to handle the extra heat if you have the GPU block also. And I think it's kind of overkill. Air cooling the NB is perfectly fine.
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post #3 of 15
if you go with that kit you WILL regret it. It is just a waste of money, you can get a much cheaper setup and a GREAT PERFORMER instead of that crap. NEVER buy kits unless its like the custom ones at danger den
post #4 of 15
here you go, of the dangerden website. only thing you need is waterwetter($5)



total = 236 + 5 = around 245 including shipping
post #5 of 15
You will very much like the kit from danger den, but beware...if its your first time...go slow, and dont waste the money on a peltier (my kit came with one, I wasnt paying any attention when I bought it)

Filling and bleeding your rig will be a pain in the ass, no matter what you do (IMHO)

I already had to perform a double bypass (one, to shorten the tube from the output of the pump, and two, to take care of a leak I aquired while moving the stuff into its locations)

I'll post pics of the set-up being done...(not too many pics though)

I opted for a radiator from Xoxide (again, make sure all your connections are the same side O.D. (to match or be a tad bigger than the tube's I.D)

I can't wait to start it up, now if I can just figure out a way to power that pump without running an extra power cord out of the case...

oooOoooH DEATH?! Where are ya buddy?!
(oh, nevermind, you already responded to this post...what the hell was I thinking)
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post #6 of 15
I would forget about the chipset block and reservoir. Save the money. Maybe upgrade to a whitewater waterblock, and eheim 1250 pump. Also, instead of paying $50 for the black ice xtreme, go to auto zone or some place and pay no more than $25 for a Chevy Chevette heatercore. Then you can use a piece of cheap rubbermade tupperware to shroud the heatercore. Like this:


Or if you want something better looking and have the time to work on it, you could cut, bend, and paint a piece of sheet metal as shown in this guide. You might get a chevette core that has a 3/4" barb on the inlet. SO you would have to dremel the other one off and JB weld (or solder) a 1/2" or 5/8" one on. I just JB welded cause it's easy. If you didn't want to do that you could find someone skilled to do it. Either way I think it's alot better than paying $50.

Xavier, how are you filling and bleeding your system? For me I just fill it up via my bleed line (created w/ a T-fitting), tilt the case around to get alot of the air to float out, fill it up some more, start the pump, then let it sit there bleeding and leak testing at the same time. 24hours later I'm ready to rock. I just might have to top off the water level onece or twice at the beginning.

Also, about not running an extra cord out of the case. You could do what I did:
1)Plug the pump's AC cord into a female 3 prong plug w/ wires coming from the other side. Like this one. (or just shop your pump's cord!)
2) Open up the PSU, fish the wires through a levour in your PSU.
3) Where the AC line comes in to your PSU (where the plug is), you will probably be able to see two contacts. W/ my PSU the plug was soldered to a piece of PCB. So I just soldered my lines to the same spots on the PCB. You might not have the PCB, just 3 pins. If you solder your wires to the plug, your pump will always be on when the plug is plugged in. ANother option is the switch below that plug. I couldn't get to mine to solder to, so that's why I didn't do it that way. But same thing, just solder the wires to the pins or whatever comes from the switch. Before soldering, make sure you take a multimeter and make sure you know which was is live and which is negative. W/ the PSU plugged in, if you have the black end of the mutlimeter on the ground of the AC plug, and the other end on a pin of the switch or plug, you will get 112V or so when touching the live pin and ground, and about 1v when touching the negative and ground. W/ this way if the switch is on so is the pump, if the switch is off so is the pump.

I soldered to the plug, but also added in a solid state relay and switch. That way the pump is only on when I have the comp on, OR if I bybass the relay for the pump to ALWAYS be on. That way I can have the pump on when I'm bleeding and leave the system off.

Lol, maybe I helped.
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post #7 of 15
I guess I'm filling and bleeding the hard way...lol

I have a 5.25" bay resevoir, and trying to fill and bleed that isnt as easy as they say...that's a noob for ya

I ended up spending the 40 bucks on a 120mm radiator only because I didnt want to have to shroud it and go through the process of trying to get get the fittings situated.

I have two 120mm fans on the radiator now, havent run them yet, but with the vents I just put in, should work well I think. Those 120's move some AIR!

I also got a pyramid fan controller that will control the two based on temperature, 40% to 100% power based on the temperature of the pyramid. Prolly not worth the money, but I couldnt pass up the LED's, and the cool clear design. It fits perfectly in a spot where the wires arent out in the open too much.

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post #8 of 15
I say you should use a shroud even w/ a black ice xtreme or whatever. W/ the fan mounted right against the radiator, not air is traveling through the fins where the fans motor is. It's a dead spot.

I might have a water cooling guide up some time next week!
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post #9 of 15
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I hate it when you make a good point. lol


what size fans you running death?
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post #10 of 15
I have a 172mm fan. Pulls 148CFMs at 36dB. But when your pulling air through a heatercore/radiator, you're not ever going to get the rated CFMs. Your actual CFMs depend on the fan's static back pressure. Static back pressure is measured in inches of H2O or Pascals. Not exactly sure how the test is done for back pressure, but they duct the fan to some body of water. Then they mesure how far the fan blows back the water. I'm not sure where the fan is possitioned or how much water of anything. Here's the graph of my fan's static back pressure. Would be nice if it was in Inches of H2O, but oh well, we can convert units.


Then looking at the graph of a air flow and static pressure for radiators (taken from here


You can figure out the actual CFMs your getting by where the two graphs cross. The "Big Momma" is the radiator most like the chevette heatercore. Then the have the black ice graphed as well.

I think I should add another 172mm fan to my heatercore!! Someone I was talking to said I was only getting around 75CFMs!?!? I haven't calculated it myself to see what I came up w/.

Hopefully everything I said is accurate enough. Dunno why I went off on this...
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