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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 1402

post #14011 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by nubbinator View Post

I got an RK9000 for $35 shipped. I've routinely seen used and new RK9000s for $40-50 shipped and used or new Quickfire Rapids for $40-55, so saying you have to drop $100 on a keyboard to mod is disingenuous since you can easily find one for far less. I've even seen Cherry boards come up for under $50 on eBay and Cherry boards with Clears sell for under $70. The Clears I got off of Taobao and, even with agent fees and shipping, I paid something like $0.15-0.25 a switch and paid less than $30 for 140 of them. The stickers I got for something like $5 at the same time I got my springs for $10 and got some extras for something like $5. The lube I picked up for something like $5-10 and it's routinely gone for that cheap in buys on Geekhack. I got the paint for $5 a can locally by using a $5 off coupon on two different days. If you pay retail for everything and buy it brand new, of course you'll be dropping some serious money, but you can easily do it on the cheap.

And if you don't have soldering supplies on hand, you can get a mediocre iron for $10-15, enough solder for a whole keyboard for $4-5, a desoldering pump or wick for $5-15 and you're set to go. No need to drop over $100 on soldering supplies unless you plan on doing a ton of it. Even then, you can still get a nice iron, solder, and desoldering pump for under $100.

Again, which switch is a matter of taste, so you can't keep calling Topre superior. It's just different. Everyone has their own personal preferences, which, again, was all my original post was about.

Theres a reason I put quotes around "superior". Technically they are, but I know personal preference is just as important.

As for buying stuff used, with coupons, etc. Yeah, I know you can do that. You can also buy a used topre board for $100 or less. At the end of the day the price is still similar between topres and ergo clears. You can't compare a new product to a used one and make price judgements based on that. You either compare them both used or both new.
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post #14012 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

You can also buy a used topre board for $100 or less. At the end of the day the price is still similar between topres and ergo clears. You can't compare a new product to a used one and make price judgements based on that. You either compare them both used or both new.

I have never seen a used Topre board go for less than $160. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen one go for less than $170. You may see the Type Heaven drop below $150 used someday, but not the FC660C, HHKB, or a Realforce keyboard. Of course, if you could point me to a Topre keyboard that's under $100 and from a legitimate source, I'd buy it in a heartbeat as I could easily flip it for about twice the price. If you're talking about the HHKB Lite, that's not a Topre keyboard.

So, no, it's still cheaper to make your own Ergo Clear board than to buy even a used Topre keyboard. And that's counting new keyboards. Like I said, I've seen brand spanking new RK9000s and QFRs and several other boards go for $40-60. Unless you're buying super overpriced Clears online, you can still easily come in under $100 for an Ergo Clear keyboard if you're willing to put the work in.

Again though, that was never my point, I was just saying that until there's a 65g or stiffer Topre keyboard, I'll keep on doing my stiff linear switches and my Ergo Clears. I don't understand why it seems like it always has to turn into an argument over something asinine with you.
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post #14013 of 36842
To be honest IMO its not the matter of which is cheaper or more expensive
for me having various keyboard has become a hobby, satisfaction and stress reliever

I solder my own QFR with ergo clear, yes it takes time, will I do it again for my green cherry? NO , ill probably just gonna get a soldering service
but hell its such a satisfaction to custom your own keyboard
I used to live in a pc modding world, keyboard is as exciting as a pc modding biggrin.gif

anyway, anyone has experience with leopold fc700r?
I heard nothing but good review from it, planning to switch it to green
its either a filco or a leopold, but leopold is like 20-30$ cheaper in my country
Edited by jokrik - 8/2/13 at 6:24am
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post #14014 of 36842
Apologies for not putting up the poll for the July KOTM or thread for the August KOTM, been busy the past few days with moving house stuff. redface.gif

I'll get it sorted ASAP.

EDIT:

The poll for the July KOTM is up here.

The thread for the August KOTM is up here.

Also in news unrelated to the KOTM ( tongue.gif ), I wonder if this will be a good board or not:

http://www.qwerkeys.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=148

It's cool to see new companies coming out with their own boards. biggrin.gif
Edited by Paradigm84 - 8/2/13 at 7:48am
post #14015 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigm84 View Post

Also in news unrelated to the KOTM ( tongue.gif ), I wonder if this will be a good board or not:

http://www.qwerkeys.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=148

It's cool to see new companies coming out with their own boards. biggrin.gif

It's just a Tex Beetle with an ISO layout.
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post #14016 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by nubbinator View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigm84 View Post

Also in news unrelated to the KOTM ( tongue.gif ), I wonder if this will be a good board or not:

http://www.qwerkeys.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=148

It's cool to see new companies coming out with their own boards. biggrin.gif

It's just a Tex Beetle with an ISO layout.

........but it's pretty.
post #14017 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigm84 View Post

........but it's pretty.

Sure, I just wanted to clear it up that it's not their own board. It's a Tex Beetle with a different layout.
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post #14018 of 36842
Hey everyone, I've googled and look around on geekhack, but i've not found any good info about painting keycaps, I have the stock set that came with my QFR and was thinking about painting a few select keys. For the most part, everyone says its a bad idea and that they quickly wear off ( which is fine as you could aways re-spray ) The few post i've seen about people doing this have basically used hardware store paint, and just blasted the keys with only one thick coat, and called it a day. ( much like most of the case painters on OCN )

I figured if you treated the paint job like you are supposed to properly paint things ( sand, mist, wait 5 mins, mist, wait 5 mins, eventually having the entire key painted, let it cure at least 12 hours, wet sand, repeat for another 2-4 times ) then you would probably get half decent results. Pardon my hater, but most of the paint jobs i've seen by rattle cans have been piss poor jobs. I would at the very least use model airplane/car paint cans that run about $10 a pop, but they come in decent colors, look good, and work very well on plastics. ( since my keys are ABS as most model cars are )

Right now i've all white blank keys, and I wanted to use my stock keycaps ( that i hate ) to make a few key specific keys ( my blanks are fine for typing and FPS, but in some games such as SC2, and some RTS/TBS games I find myself key hunting a bit. I'm just not used to some of the lay outs for those games, and 4 or 5 colored caps would help me out )

I already plan on ordering another full keycap set, so I don't care if the keys eventually start to fade or wear off the paint.


Ideas, comments, tips?
post #14019 of 36842
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jixr View Post

Hey everyone, I've googled and look around on geekhack, but i've not found any good info about painting keycaps, I have the stock set that came with my QFR and was thinking about painting a few select keys. For the most part, everyone says its a bad idea and that they quickly wear off ( which is fine as you could aways re-spray ) The few post i've seen about people doing this have basically used hardware store paint, and just blasted the keys with only one thick coat, and called it a day. ( much like most of the case painters on OCN )

I figured if you treated the paint job like you are supposed to properly paint things ( sand, mist, wait 5 mins, mist, wait 5 mins, eventually having the entire key painted, let it cure at least 12 hours, wet sand, repeat for another 2-4 times ) then you would probably get half decent results. Pardon my hater, but most of the paint jobs i've seen by rattle cans have been piss poor jobs. I would at the very least use model airplane/car paint cans that run about $10 a pop, but they come in decent colors, look good, and work very well on plastics. ( since my keys are ABS as most model cars are )

Right now i've all white blank keys, and I wanted to use my stock keycaps ( that i hate ) to make a few key specific keys ( my blanks are fine for typing and FPS, but in some games such as SC2, and some RTS/TBS games I find myself key hunting a bit. I'm just not used to some of the lay outs for those games, and 4 or 5 colored caps would help me out )

I already plan on ordering another full keycap set, so I don't care if the keys eventually start to fade or wear off the paint.


Ideas, comments, tips?

I like the model car paint idea. I'm sure there's a clear finish coat you can get for some added durability.
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post #14020 of 36842
Yeah they have cans of clear as well, though mostly the color choices are limited to army colors, and your basic colors. I figured it would make a fun little weekend trail and error project, and since full keycap sets only run $40 its no big deal if i goof up a few keys in the process.

I can't make it to the hobby store today, but I'll try to go tomorrow and I'll be sure to document the process so that people like me can hopefully find some useful article while googling.
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