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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 1403

post #14021 of 36906
Quote:
Originally Posted by nubbinator View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigm84 View Post

........but it's pretty.

Sure, I just wanted to clear it up that it's not their own board. It's a Tex Beetle with a different layout.

Yeah, I just think company specific boards are cool, even if it's a rebranded one.
post #14022 of 36906
Most of the people who do key cap painting are doing nail polish dipping and some sort of lacquer over the polish.
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post #14023 of 36906
Well here's a keyboard to end the Topre is overpriced discussions
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?man=10
$150 Topre TK
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post #14024 of 36906
It's still expensive and you can even argue overpriced (though I've never heard people call Topre overpriced). It's cheaper because they have ABS caps instead of PBT. If you want to get nicer caps, it will still be over $200. At the same time, you could get some good Cherry boards with PBT caps or buy some discreet PBT caps for under $150. That's all a matter of taste though.
Edited by nubbinator - 8/2/13 at 4:41pm
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post #14025 of 36906
Really liking the wasd v2 but man it's spendy especially if you want clears.
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post #14026 of 36906
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrisc View Post

Really liking the wasd v2 but man it's spendy especially if you want clears.

is clear the same as ergo clear?
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post #14027 of 36906
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrisc View Post

Really liking the wasd v2 but man it's spendy especially if you want clears.

is clear the same as ergo clear?

No, MX Clears are produced by Cherry, Ergo Clears are modded switches comprised of the stem from an MX Clear switch and the spring from an MX Brown, MX Red or MX Blue switch.

MX Clears feel like heavier MX Browns, Ergo Clears feel like MX Browns with a more defined bump.
post #14028 of 36906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigm84 View Post

No, MX Clears are produced by Cherry, Ergo Clears are modded switches comprised of the stem from an MX Clear switch and the spring from an MX Brown, MX Red or MX Blue switch.

MX Clears feel like heavier MX Browns, Ergo Clears feel like MX Browns with a more defined bump.

lol now thats complicated
all I know is I love MX blue and switch back to it 2 days ago from my ergo clear, but my hands keep begging for my ergo clear
I found myself switch back to my ergo clear again this morning

the science of fingers biggrin.gif
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post #14029 of 36906
I have razer stealth, ducky 3 and I just pre-ordered the Roccat Ryos MK pro (browns) yesterday. I have to admit, I like typing and gaming better on my razer that I do on the ducky 3 .... redface.gif
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post #14030 of 36906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jixr View Post

Hey everyone, I've googled and look around on geekhack, but i've not found any good info about painting keycaps, I have the stock set that came with my QFR and was thinking about painting a few select keys. For the most part, everyone says its a bad idea and that they quickly wear off ( which is fine as you could aways re-spray ) The few post i've seen about people doing this have basically used hardware store paint, and just blasted the keys with only one thick coat, and called it a day. ( much like most of the case painters on OCN )

I figured if you treated the paint job like you are supposed to properly paint things ( sand, mist, wait 5 mins, mist, wait 5 mins, eventually having the entire key painted, let it cure at least 12 hours, wet sand, repeat for another 2-4 times ) then you would probably get half decent results. Pardon my hater, but most of the paint jobs i've seen by rattle cans have been piss poor jobs. I would at the very least use model airplane/car paint cans that run about $10 a pop, but they come in decent colors, look good, and work very well on plastics. ( since my keys are ABS as most model cars are )

Right now i've all white blank keys, and I wanted to use my stock keycaps ( that i hate ) to make a few key specific keys ( my blanks are fine for typing and FPS, but in some games such as SC2, and some RTS/TBS games I find myself key hunting a bit. I'm just not used to some of the lay outs for those games, and 4 or 5 colored caps would help me out )

I already plan on ordering another full keycap set, so I don't care if the keys eventually start to fade or wear off the paint.


Ideas, comments, tips?

I have done caps with standard spray paint, model paint, and nail polish (and variations using 2 to 3 at the same time). The nail polish looks very glossy and thick - and usually has a bit of a texture to it. The best results came with model paint. I have a set on my QFR that I just painted right over the stock printing. I prepped the caps by cleaning them with some nail polish remover. You have to be careful with this step and not touch them as the polish remover actually melts the plastic a little. If you touch it, you will leave a finger print. Let them dry for a while (they will look aweful in this step). One to 2 very light coats of primer (i use white Tamiya primer as I like my colors to be brighter). If you want, you can very lightly wet sand with some 2000 grit at this stage, but the Tamiya primer lays down very smooth. Clean the caps in some warm water if you wet sand them, and let them completely dry. Using the proper technique of multiple light coats, get the color and depth you want. Again, you can color sand, but be very careful as you will go through the corners very easily even with 2000 grit. I also use Tamiya satin clear (2-3 light coats, with a final heavier coat to get a nice even finish).

I have had my keys painted for a few months now with no visible wear. Of note though, is that I wash my hands before I use my computer and never eat at the keyboard.

The blue keys are the ones I painted. You can see in the photos how thin the paint is by how easily the pad printing shows.


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