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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 1660

post #16591 of 36848
PSA: Frys now carries QFR's with the black top case, from what I understand that should be the newer coating found on the new XT, its supposed to be a bit more durable and not rub off as easily as the previous versions.
post #16592 of 36848
So, wait... Who's chair is that?
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IT'S WHITE
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post #16593 of 36848
Quote:
Originally Posted by skupples View Post

So, wait... Who's chair is that?
The key cap throne belongs to no one except for those kings and lords foolish enough to play their game of thrones.
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post #16594 of 36848
Hey fellow keyboard enthusiasts. Got a few n00b questions. Here goes.

  1. If my keyboard casing doesn't have rubber coating on it, would I still have to sand it down before spraying? I'm guessing no, since I don't have confidence in not ruining it, and I'm not using any sensitive spray?
  2. What (kind of) spray should I use for the most matte, darkest, most boring black there is? Or should I go black > matte overcoat?
  3. What are the steps I should take, and if I should do anything to prepare the casing? How long should I let the spray cure/dry before applying another layer or overcoat? Do the two require different curing time?
  4. What is the best, easiest way to create a logo via stencil via printed paper? Oh wait.... What is the best way to put a logo on a casing via spray?

I know I might have asked this in a weird order. Help would be much appreciated. Spray n00b here. With my Gunpla models back the the days, I hand painted to perfection. tongue.gif But with a casing, I want it to be even and nice. biggrin.gif
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post #16595 of 36848
1. Sand it down a little if you can, I don't see how you could ruin it unless you go crazy and use 60 grit sandpaper tongue.gif

2. I think you should just get non gloss black paint, and you could sand it at the end if you want.

3. I would say 15-30 mins depending on the paint/temperature of the room/ventilation

4. Not sure, stencil would work if you find one you like. Not sure what you mean by that since you crossed out the first part of that.



Quick question though, what case are you painting?
 
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post #16596 of 36848
 
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post #16597 of 36848
Quote:
Originally Posted by HPE1000 View Post

1. Sand it down a little if you can, I don't see how you could ruin it unless you go crazy and use 60 grit sandpaper tongue.gif

2. I think you should just get non gloss black paint, and you could sand it at the end if you want.

3. I would say 15-30 mins depending on the paint/temperature of the room/ventilation

4. Not sure, stencil would work if you find one you like. Not sure what you mean by that since you crossed out the first part of that.



Quick question though, what case are you painting?

Thanks for the quick reply. +Repped. thumb.gif

I am planning on painting my QuickFire TK's casing. Yes, I know it is already black. But hear me out. tongue.gif

I want to spray it one layer black first to cover up all the branding, even though they're quite subtle already. These are the CM Storm logo on the top next to the Lock LED indicators, and at the rear. I figured one even coat would cover them up.

Then, (here's where my boring "mod" idea gets revealed. No place like here though, so) I want to do a subtle, almost exact same colour of the CM Storm logo, but only as an Evangelion's "Nerv" logo, much like the cap I purchased from Geek_Feng. Hence why I'm wondering how I would stencil. I'm guessing... print out and cut out with my graphic designer skill with a scalpel knife, and tape it down and masking tape off as far as I can on the case?

What adverse effects might I face if I were not to sand it at all before applying spray/base? Again, treat me as a spraying n00b as the last time I sprayed something it required no finesse whatsoever.

EDIT: I'm in the UK, when hunting down bits and bobs for such a job. I'm thinking where I could get a giant cardboard box to use as a spray booth, lol.
Edited by neo0031 - 10/13/13 at 1:23pm
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post #16598 of 36848
you don't have to sand the plastic before hand, but by doing so you can clean off any surface dirt, mold markings, etc.

Basically, sand ( though the more prep work you do the better the final look will be. )

MIST the case every 10mins ( if you cover it all in one go you're doing it wrong )
if it looks wet or runny, you did it wrong.

Its always easier to add more paint later than it is to go back and sand out errors and have to re-spray

once you are happy with the layers, let it dry for at least a few hours and then wet sand with some soapy water using 600grit or higher sandpaper
do so lightly, then let the case sit another day or so until the paint is fully cured, then get to wet sanding some more until you have a nice smooth finish.


as far as the stencil work, you want to spray the area you want the stencil color to be first ( using above method ) then get some painters tape, tape over the area, draw the stencil on, and use a exacto knife to cut out the shape, cut through the tape but don't scratch the plastic, then once happy, spray over the tape and entire case ( same method as above ) with the black paint.
Edited by Jixr - 10/13/13 at 2:01pm
post #16599 of 36848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jixr View Post

you don't have to sand the plastic before hand, but by doing so you can clean off any surface dirt, mold markings, etc.

Basically, sand ( though the more prep work you do the better the final look will be. )

MIST the case every 10mins ( if you cover it all in one go you're doing it wrong )
if it looks wet or runny, you did it wrong.

Its always easier to add more paint later than it is to go back and sand out errors and have to re-spray

once you are happy with the layers, let it dry for at least a few hours and then wet sand with some soapy water using 600grit or higher sandpaper
do so lightly, then let the case sit another day or so until the paint is fully cured, then get to wet sanding some more until you have a nice smooth finish.

Thanks for the tips! +repped.

So when I'm misting the casing, it doesn't matter if it's in patches, since it's misting? I'm guessing spray paint are quite thinned down by the can's thinner.

I'm guessing model shop spray paint is ok? (Again, need to be UK available if otherwise)

About the sanding (beforehand), could I just get a low number/fine sand paper (for fine, not rough) for that in one go, instead of rough then medium then fine?

Thanks for the help guys. smile.gif

EDIT: A crappy photoshop mockup with the logo and keycap. Original image courtesy of Maxkeyboard, (Only one with this keycap set, obviously). Ignore the US layout and imagine it in UK/ISO layout....:



....what if the whole top row (F1 to F12) were blank WASD dark greys.... Hmmm.... more photoshop.
Edited by neo0031 - 10/13/13 at 2:32pm
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post #16600 of 36848
I would not use model car/airplane paint, i've personally have not had success with it.

I always use Rustolium brand paint as it sticks very well to plastics, drys fast and even, and can get a really good finish with it.
( dont know if you'll be able to find it over seas though )


and with sandpaper the higher number = finer paper, I would not use anything rougher than 600, and you dont really need rough, since your intention is smoohting, not taking material away.
( and rough paper can/will leave deep scratches in the plastic )


and as far as misting it, ( i say mist since most people just blast their whatevers with paint in one go and call it done ) it does not matter if its in patches, though be sure to cover the edges and corners well because if you are sanding you may sand through the paint and back to the plastic ( causing need for spraying again )

Just take your time and don't rush and you can get some pretty good results.


Both of my painted cases were done with about $3 paint cans, some sand paper, and time, effort, and patience,
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