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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 334

post #3331 of 36874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
They are, and some people have opinions about the matter; but I have the FC200R (Leopold) and the Majestouch Tenkeyless (Filco.)

Overall, it's more or less the same experience with a slight difference in keycaps because the Filco's have a coating on them that makes them get a shine to them over time that is very uneven and ugly. Though if you were to c hange the keycaps the difference would be almost O

The Leopold's also have a better Key Rollover on USB (17 vs 6)
You don't feel any difference when comparing them side by side? I find that the MX Brown Filco has a much stronger tactile bump and feels crisper to type on than the MX Brown Leopold (and no it is not psychological). I presume that this is a result of the Filco being plate-mounted as opposed to the Leopold being PCB-mounted.

As for the keycaps, the Leopolds stock caps do feel nicer and thicker than the Filco's stock caps. You can always customize the keycaps on the Filco, however. It's harder to do so on the Leopold because the it's spacebar's stabilizers are spaced differently than filco/das/ducky. Many custom keysets have their stabilizers made to be compatible with those brands.
post #3332 of 36874
Well the numpad '4' key has stopped working on my work keyboard. This seems like a great time to get a filco with blues.
post #3333 of 36874
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChoboGuy View Post
You don't feel any difference when comparing them side by side? I find that the MX Brown Filco has a much stronger tactile bump and feels crisper to type on than the MX Brown Leopold (and no it is not psychological). I presume that this is a result of the Filco being plate-mounted as opposed to the Leopold being PCB-mounted.

As for the keycaps, the Leopolds stock caps do feel nicer and thicker than the Filco's stock caps. You can always customize the keycaps on the Filco, however. It's harder to do so on the Leopold because the it's spacebar's stabilizers are spaced differently than filco/das/ducky. Many custom keysets have their stabilizers made to be compatible with those brands.

The difference is in the rigidity of the board. The rest is in your head I would say.


It may be that I'm used to MX-Clears which have a stronger tactile presence and higher force requirement that I can't tell the difference. But the two just do not feel starkly different.


Then again, I'm a keyboard enthusiast; not a snob.
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post #3334 of 36874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
The difference is in the rigidity of the board. The rest is in your head I would say.


It may be that I'm used to MX-Clears which have a stronger tactile presence and higher force requirement that I can't tell the difference. But the two just do not feel starkly different.


Then again, I'm a keyboard enthusiast; not a snob.
Other people have also attested to the mushiness of the tactility of the Leopold. Trust me, I have compared them side by side many many times and I have never used clears before. The Filco DOES have a stronger tactile bump and the difference is quite noticeable for me.

http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?1...ss-brown-otaku

http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?1...actility-mushy
Edited by ChoboGuy - 7/18/11 at 9:55am
post #3335 of 36874
Linking to geekhack is like linking to a sea of trolls most of the time.

Many issues at Geekhack are blown out of proportions.

The point is, that the plunger is the same on the two, so the tactility is not what is different, is it mostly due to the higher amount of flex you get when depressing against a PCB instead of a metal plate.
At best, the difference is minimal
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post #3336 of 36874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
Linking to geekhack is like linking to a sea of trolls most of the time.

Many issues at Geekhack are blown out of proportions.

The point is, that the plunger is the same on the two, so the tactility is not what is different, is it mostly due to the higher amount of flex you get when depressing against a PCB instead of a metal plate.
At best, the difference is minimal
See Filco PING!
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post #3337 of 36874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
Linking to geekhack is like linking to a sea of trolls most of the time.

Many issues at Geekhack are blown out of proportions.

The point is, that the plunger is the same on the two, so the tactility is not what is different, is it mostly due to the higher amount of flex you get when depressing against a PCB instead of a metal plate.
At best, the difference is minimal
If you read back on my previous posts I never said that the switches themselves were different. I stated that I presumed the tactility was stronger because of something that had to do with the switches being PCB mounted vs plate mounted.

Like you said, you're probably just so used to the clear switches that you can't tell the difference yourself. My brother owns the MX brown Filco and he hasn't tried any switches besides the browns/blues and he agrees with me that there IS a much more noticeable tactile bump in the Filco. My other friends who have also tried the keyboards agree with me.
post #3338 of 36874
There has been some discussion on differences between older and newer Cherry Brown switches. However, between ones of the same age, issues such as keycaps, stabilizers, switching mounting and others are probably affecting how you perceive the feel. Personal experience suggests to me that sound also has a large impact on how you perceive tactility.

Either way, this is Browns that we're talking about. There's not a whole lot of tactility either way.
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post #3339 of 36874
Personally I think it's all perception; if I slowly press down the same switch (my unused Scroll Lock key) on each board, then I notice very little difference on each switch in the feel pushing them down to the point of tactility, and moving just slightly past it.
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post #3340 of 36874
Ugh...buying a blank set of keycaps is the worst idea I've ever had. I got them from a group buy on Geekhack, and they were shipped to me in a bag in an envelope instead of in the Filco box all laid out in order.

I've been sitting here since 1:00 trying to sort the keycaps into rows of the correct height...I can barely tell the difference and keep getting it wrong

The guy gave me some advice:
Quote:
Z to "?" and 4 arrow is a roll. count out 14 for same hight
A to " 11 for same hight
Q to ] 12 for same hight
1 to + and F1 to F12 with ESC 28 for same hight

All number pad key and other should be the same.
but even with that I can't seem to get this right.
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