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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 3459

post #34581 of 36815
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoostrC0gburn View Post

yup. great little board, made for cop cars. I painted mine beige and threw on some OG Cherry WoB doubleshots. PBT blanks for the odd keys. Matches my current build pretty well. Just wish it was a little heavier... i may have a thicker steel plate made for it

i was wrong, though, the layout doesnt quite match the 4100... is there an MX version? its hard to source caps for the BL82

I like the layout. Dedicated f keys, tilde, pgup pgdn, directional keys, 60 size, non-clicky keys. Seems harder to find than it should be. Other similar options I've found are MK MK84, Matias FK303, and Deck 82.

edit - I'm a keyboard noob. Apparently this is a fairly standard 75% layout. Learn something new every day.
Edited by Mrip541 - 2/13/16 at 10:40am
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post #34582 of 36815
What's the issue with the Poseidon Z RGB board? Kinda happy to see they used Cherry MX switches again and the one Kalih Blue one I have is holding up wonderfully after a year of HEAVY use.
 
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post #34583 of 36815
I bought my first mechanical keyboard the other day, should be delivered today. Coolermaster QFR.
post #34584 of 36815
The QFR is a good choice for your first board. You should like it. smile.gif
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post #34585 of 36815
Quote:
Originally Posted by pez View Post

What's the issue with the Poseidon Z RGB board? Kinda happy to see they used Cherry MX switches again and the one Kalih Blue one I have is holding up wonderfully after a year of HEAVY use.

Nothing wrong with the keyboard, I just rather dislike the company.
post #34586 of 36815
So, when I got my second Pok3r, I got another board with it for just the cost of shipping. I didn't think much of it, but then I remembered hearing about vintage switches and decided to look more into it. The board is a WYSE 900023-01 terminal board with MX Blacks. The case is marked 1985 internally. I don't know how to tell the difference between regular and vintage switches, or when Cherry supposedly changed materials. After cleaning the board up, though, it types like a dream. It's a pretty neat form factor, too.



Edit: Not my picture, but it's the best one I could find of the board.
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post #34587 of 36815
Pretty sure that's a WYSE ASCII but don't quote me on that. I've had a few of those that I stole the vintage blacks out of but it does have a really nice form factor. If I were to ever find them cheaply enough again, I'd get one and convert to USB, switch swap for something like Blues or Greens.
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post #34588 of 36815
For the cost, I could do just about whatever I want to it. I think I spent $18 on it? The blacks feel great, but I wasn't sure whether they were vintage or not. The form factor is neat, a lot like my chosen White Fox layout. I think i'm going to hold onto it and convert it to USB, at least until the Fox gets here in May.
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post #34589 of 36815
I just dental band modded my Leopold 660C. I’d give it 4.5/5 stars. It definitely changed the feel but I like it. The greatest resistance is at the top of the switch so the bands slightly depressing the keys make them feel lighter and I can feel less of a bump. I would describe the feeling as the way browns should feel and sound but don't. Slight bump at the top but smooth, with a satisfying but quiet thock sound. Like closing the door of a luxury car v. a Civic. More resistance than browns but less than the stock 45g topres. At work I’ve been worried that my typing may bother others, particularly when I’m wearing headphones and can’t hear myself type. After this mod I can type without fear. It’s as close to silent as you’re going to get.

The .5 star minus is due to the “f” key not sounding the same as the other keys. Every letter key sounds exactly the same except f which is still giving a sharper click sound on upstroke almost like I forgot to band that one slider. However, the key height is the same as the others so there has to be a band on it. My thought is that the sound comes from the switch itself clicking against the mounting plate, as if the way it’s mounted leaves a little wiggle room.

Couple notes about the banding process. I used 1/8” medium bands. It was even more tedious than anticipated. There are a million screws and the bands are way too small to easily slip over the sliders. I put each band on the tip of needle nosed pliers to expand it and then place it on the slider. I also noticed that the switches are numbered between 2-4 and each internal slider has a matching number. As far as I can tell every switch and slider is identical. I mixed the sliders around with no problems.

Bottom line is that this is easily my favorite now compared to my Das 4 with browns, WASD with browns, and K70 with reds.
Edited by Mrip541 - 2/13/16 at 5:10pm
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post #34590 of 36815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaise170 View Post

The QFR is a good choice for your first board. You should like it. smile.gif

Just came in.. I really like it so far.
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