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[Official] Mechanical Keyboard Club - Because saving money is boring. - Page 852

post #8511 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe221 View Post

2 bucks for a coffee?!? LOL good luck!

mcdonalds any size coffee is only $1

http://www.mcstate.com/8133/43388/1-Any-Size-Coffee/
post #8512 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by azianai View Post

mcdonalds any size coffee is only $1
http://www.mcstate.com/8133/43388/1-Any-Size-Coffee/

You can get TWO!!! Just need ~$.12 for tax tongue.gif
    
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post #8513 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunkles View Post

You can get TWO!!! Just need ~$.12 for tax tongue.gif

Yay!
post #8514 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunkles View Post

You can get TWO!!! Just need ~$.12 for tax tongue.gif
See if you can find a macdonalds in Somalia, they won't make you pay any tax there.
post #8515 of 36805
I suppose this question is for "advanced" keyboard people.

A few weeks ago a friend mentioned he had, in his parents attic a very old keyboard, that he would get for me next time I was there. Today he got that keyboard for me. It is a terminal keyboard.

It uses something similar to a 10pin din, however, they pins themselves are not exactly aligned the same as a ten pin din. My question is this, how would I go about finding which each wire does, so I could see if maybe there was a way to make my own conversion to din6 with some older/seperate wires.

It is a wyse 50 ASCII keyboard. Uses cherry black switches.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
450

If anyone could shed any sort of light, as to what the numbers over the resisters may mean, or if this a specific proprietary thing, or maybe someone knows of some sort of database where information like this is stored would be great.

edit: There used to be a metal ring around the pins, lost somewhere in time.
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post #8516 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusboots View Post

I suppose this question is for "advanced" keyboard people.

A few weeks ago a friend mentioned he had, in his parents attic a very old keyboard, that he would get for me next time I was there. Today he got that keyboard for me. It is a terminal keyboard.

It uses something similar to a 10pin din, however, they pins themselves are not exactly aligned the same as a ten pin din. My question is this, how would I go about finding which each wire does, so I could see if maybe there was a way to make my own conversion to din6 with some older/seperate wires.

It is a wyse 50 ASCII keyboard. Uses cherry black switches.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
450

If anyone could shed any sort of light, as to what the numbers over the resisters may mean, or if this a specific proprietary thing, or maybe someone knows of some sort of database where information like this is stored would be great.

edit: There used to be a metal ring around the pins, lost somewhere in time.
Harvest the caps and trash it? You will have much better luck with old stuff like this over at deskthority.
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post #8517 of 36805
Thanks for the reply.

That honestly what I was considering doing, just keeping the caps.

It is a pet peeve of mine to make up an account for a single question, which is why I brought the question here, instead of desk authority or geekhack (which is down).

I am considering seeing if I am capable of moving some of the switches from the board over to an all mx blue board that I have as the wasd keys. Though I am not certain how difficult that may be, it seems there are only two solder points.
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post #8518 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusboots View Post

I suppose this question is for "advanced" keyboard people.
A few weeks ago a friend mentioned he had, in his parents attic a very old keyboard, that he would get for me next time I was there. Today he got that keyboard for me. It is a terminal keyboard.
It uses something similar to a 10pin din, however, they pins themselves are not exactly aligned the same as a ten pin din. My question is this, how would I go about finding which each wire does, so I could see if maybe there was a way to make my own conversion to din6 with some older/seperate wires.
It is a wyse 50 ASCII keyboard. Uses cherry black switches. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
450
If anyone could shed any sort of light, as to what the numbers over the resisters may mean, or if this a specific proprietary thing, or maybe someone knows of some sort of database where information like this is stored would be great.
edit: There used to be a metal ring around the pins, lost somewhere in time.

wy50 terminals are not electrically compatible with at, ps/2, or usb. You would need a converter to actually use it. I don't know of any for wy50. I've seen plans for wy85 and wyse pce terminal keyboards at kbdbabel.org.

Another way to use the keyboard, would be to replace the controller. Not too difficult (only basic soldering skills required but it's time consuming and tedious) but you can't exactly just drop one in. It would involve cutting the traces to the current controller, then wiring a new controller to the matrix (x * y grid that tells the controller what key is pressed), then making sure the new controller is setup for the matrix. You could use a teensy or custom kb controller like the aikb cameleon.

You could also use the controller from a donor ps/2 or usb keyboard but you would likely have to modify the matrix to match the controller (i.e. cutting more traces and wiring it to match the donor kb) since you can't change the configuration of the controller like you could with a teensy or custom kb controller.

Also the franken keyboard would be limited in KRO by the controller used and matrix. Even if you used an NKRO controller without diodes for each key you would not get NKRO. Adding diodes would add another level of complexity.

Unless you really, really like the Wyse keyboard (looks/feel) it's not a task that's I would recommend.

At the very least you have a donor board with blacks and a set of double-shot wyse caps (at least it should be double-shots, I think all MX Wyse boards are double-shot). Wyse is nyce! but you'll still need a moogle kit to complete the set. I love my Wyse set.
post #8519 of 36805
Quote:
Originally Posted by Igthorn View Post

wy50 terminals are not electrically compatible with at, ps/2, or usb. You would need a converter to actually use it. I don't know of any for wy50. I've seen plans for wy85 and wyse pce terminal keyboards at kbdbabel.org.
Another way to use the keyboard, would be to replace the controller. Not too difficult (only basic soldering skills required but it's time consuming and tedious) but you can't exactly just drop one in. It would involve cutting the traces to the current controller, then wiring a new controller to the matrix (x * y grid that tells the controller what key is pressed), then making sure the new controller is setup for the matrix. You could use a teensy or custom kb controller like the aikb cameleon.
You could also use the controller from a donor ps/2 or usb keyboard but you would likely have to modify the matrix to match the controller (i.e. cutting more traces and wiring it to match the donor kb) since you can't change the configuration of the controller like you could with a teensy or custom kb controller.
Also the franken keyboard would be limited in KRO by the controller used and matrix. Even if you used an NKRO controller without diodes for each key you would not get NKRO. Adding diodes would add another level of complexity.
Unless you really, really like the Wyse keyboard (looks/feel) it's not a task that's I would recommend.
At the very least you have a donor board with blacks and a set of double-shot wyse caps (at least it should be double-shots, I think all MX Wyse boards are double-shot). Wyse is nyce! but you'll still need a moogle kit to complete the set. I love my Wyse set.

Thanks much, very informative. They caps are double shot, they fit on both my cherry blue boards (obv.).

I will not be doing any of that. HAHA!

What do you think about transplanting any of the switches themselves?
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post #8520 of 36805
Should be pretty easy to transplant switches. You just desolder both and switch. It might be easier to use a solder pump instead of braid/wick. But it's good to have both. It's easier to remove a lot with a pump, but it's easier to clean up with braid.

Be careful not to heat the traces too long or they could come off the board. Use the donor board for practice. Once you're confident, then you can work on your good keyboards.
Edited by Igthorn - 7/18/12 at 6:03pm
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