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Cooler Master V10 Modding - Page 5

post #41 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsTopher View Post
There's a mod done to the V10 which runs the TEC %100 of the time, I've been thinking about doing it...although would love to see how this works out before I go ahead with that.
Hi what temps are you hitting with your 955 Fully stressed like prime love to know because I think I got a crap unit.

Plus about that mod that runs the TEC 100% it only lasts for around 20mins then its burned out that’s why I been thinking of moving the sencor to get the sucker to power up to 100% under load.
Edited by BlueShark - 8/11/09 at 7:20pm
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post #42 of 82
Well I've never done any stress test, and my room is very hot, no A/C here...

But I'm running 3.8 stable throughout the hotness, 4.0 works on cool nights. Never done any stress tests, just SuperPi, gaming, some 3dmark, and that's about it.
    
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post #43 of 82
Well a 80watts Q TEC at 5.58 volts uses about 22watts of electricity . Which is why it's NOT a 75watt of Q TEC that's for sure !

Even with a 15.2 volt, 226watts of Q TEC it will only draw 56watts of electricity at 6.18 volts.. but this is a 50x50 TEC that's rated at the lower voltage than the 226 watt40x40 TEC . The 40x40 will draw even less than the 15.2 volt TEC sooooo the 6 volts can’t be right .. But that’s no surprise .. It wont be being powered by 6 volts.. it will be powered by 12 volts that’s PWM’d.
Edited by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) - 8/11/09 at 8:43pm
post #44 of 82
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) View Post
Well a 80watts Q TEC at 5.58 volts uses about 22watts of electricity . Which is why it's NOT a 75watt of Q TEC that's for sure !

Even with a 15.2 volt, 226watts of Q TEC it will only draw 56watts of electricity at 6.18 volts.. but this is a 50x50 TEC that's rated at the lower voltage than the 226 watt40x40 TEC . The 40x40 will draw even less than the 15.2 volt TEC sooooo the 6 volts can’t be right .. But that’s no surprise .. It wont be being powered by 6 volts.. it will be powered by 12 volts that’s PWM’d.
Ok... im trying to do the math for the conversion, but i see its not as straight forward as it seems. As for the PWM'd 12V, i understand the term, but not how its implemented... googling now.(ok, i gotcha now)
On a slightly different branch of this topic, need to know if i remember right or am just way off, but i remember running fans off the 12V and 5V together give you a ~7V. (easy way to run a fan slower/quiter w/o a control). Would this also work for a TEC? It would get the voltage closer to the 50% needed (excluding amps at this time)...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueShark View Post
...Plus about that mod that runs the TEC 100% it only lasts for around 20mins then its burned out that’s why I been thinking of moving the sencor to get the sucker to power up to 100% under load.
This is because they most likely supplied the wrong voltage to it and killed the unit. I know that on my machine (throughout a 30min OCCT test) that it showed the voltage in the 6.0V - 6.9V range. Though this may not be the "operation" voltage, it is what is supplied to the TEC from the control box during sub-60C operation...
Edited by phatman81 - 8/12/09 at 12:58am
    
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post #45 of 82
As I said earlier if you really want to know what the TEC is then crack open the V10 and wipe the TIM off you'll find a set of numbers usually, on my TECs the numbers look like TEC1-127xx (xx in my case is 09 and 06) the xx represents the current and the 127 represents the number of thermocouples.
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post #46 of 82
Thread Starter 
i understand this, but there are a few things keeping me from doing this...
1. Im @ work as we speak
2. as of now, i wish not to break my warranty just in case i screw something up (but this is the least of my worries)
3. it currently "works", so why mess that up? (i know, its weak, but i said a few...)
    
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post #47 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) View Post
Well a 80watts Q TEC at 5.58 volts uses about 22watts of electricity . Which is why it's NOT a 75watt of Q TEC that's for sure !

Even with a 15.2 volt, 226watts of Q TEC it will only draw 56watts of electricity at 6.18 volts.. but this is a 50x50 TEC that's rated at the lower voltage than the 226 watt40x40 TEC . The 40x40 will draw even less than the 15.2 volt TEC sooooo the 6 volts can’t be right .. But that’s no surprise .. It wont be being powered by 6 volts.. it will be powered by 12 volts that’s PWM’d.
The power draw of 70w is for the whole unit not just the TEC so it includes what is used by the fans and control unit. It is 70w max for the whole unit.

6v only comes into it because he thinks that is the best point to run it.

Before I did my research I thought the v10 was another multiple TEC unit it isnt but ultra take a look and see where that TEc is I cant believe where they put it is the best place....they appear to be trying to cool the hot end of the heatpipes which is ridiculous one should really ensure the cold end of the heatpipes are cold to ensure continued efficiency of the heatpipes cooling the hot end effecively reduces their efficiency. That's why I said adding another piggyback wont do much if anything...it is only cooling the heatpipes.

This cooler relies primarily on the fans....that's why there is 2 big ones.... the TEC is just a sales gimmick to try an justify it's price.
Edited by zipdogso - 8/12/09 at 2:33am
post #48 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by flak-spammer View Post
As I said earlier if you really want to know what the TEC is then crack open the V10 and wipe the TIM off you'll find a set of numbers usually, on my TECs the numbers look like TEC1-127xx (xx in my case is 09 and 06) the xx represents the current and the 127 represents the number of thermocouples.
none of the TEC's i've EVER bought have and anything stamped on them. though i wish they had
post #49 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by zipdogso View Post
The power draw of 70w is for the whole unit not just the TEC so it includes what is used by the fans and control unit. It is 70w max for the whole unit.

6v only comes into it because he thinks that is the best point to run it.

Before I did my research I thought the v10 was another multiple TEC unit it isnt but ultra take a look and see where that TEc is I cant believe where they put it is the best place....they appear to be trying to cool the hot end of the heatpipes which is ridiculous one should really ensure the cold end of the heatpipes are cold to ensure continued efficiency of the heatpipes cooling the hot end effecively reduces their efficiency. That's why I said adding another piggyback wont do much if anything...it is only cooling the heatpipes.

This cooler relies primarily on the fans....that's why there is 2 big ones.... the TEC is just a sales gimmick to try an justify it's price.
I find the whole heat pipe idea interesting. It does decrease the efficiency. and limit that amount of heat that can be transferred via the heat pipes . and a real limiting factor would be at some stage the fluid would seas to travel if it gets to cold. Obviously the heat pipe would make it very hard to insulate too.

The most interesting thing about heat pipes is someone could use them with multiple TEC's it could BE COOLIT' NEW product. Ditch all their water setup as it would work with a decent heat sink. its GOT to be cheaper than their current products. By the way the idea would be to push all the heat via the TEC's not these worst of both worlds setups like this one and the ultraTEC one

I really think we're wasting our time on this..

HE should get a 24 volt 226 and run it at 12 volts AFTER he cuts the molex off and be done with it. he'll have a Qc of about 170watt for the use of 80 ish watts. oh and add a 38mm 3000 rpm fan (at least) to the back of the heat sink
Edited by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) - 8/12/09 at 4:02pm
post #50 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 (muffy) View Post
I find the whole heat pipe idea interesting. It does decrease the efficiency. and limit that amount of heat that can be transferred via the heat pipes . and a real limiting factor would be at some stage the fluid would seas to travel if it gets to cold. Obviously the heat pipe would make it very hard to insulate too.
That's why I have heatpipes that work down to minus 40 my limiting factor is keeping the cold end cold.
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