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A Complete Guide to Fix the Flickering or Dimming Backlight LCD of logitech Z 5500 D

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|` FIX YOUR DYING or DEAD BACK-LIGHT OF LOGITECH Z5500 CONTROL POD `|


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WARNING! :- Attempting to do this work will any how void any kind of WARRANTY policies left on this Product. Please do it at your own RISKS and RESPONSIBILITIES.
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[However, in my case the product was still under warranty period (Since just 3 months i bought it) but couldn't live with out this monster, May be not even on those RMA days ]

[ Tags:- z5500 lcd problem or z-5500 lcd problem or z 5500 lcd problem or Project or Mod or Repair or Service for the Fading or Dying LED of Z-5500 or Z5500 or Control POD or Digital Control Centre or Center]

First of all, this project requires two Important points i.e enough patience and good self Control. However as its a time consuming process.., it took around 3 to 4 Hr's for me to complete the job...

Also you might need some basic skills in soldering as well as lil bit of logical thinking...

Ok lets get started NOW..

A - Getting started :-

1getingstarted.jpg

You will need Six basic Stuffs in order to complete this mod
1 - A L-key

2 - A Philps Star Screw Driver

3 - A Digital or Analogue Multimeter

4 - SMD type LED's (White Preferred) or A circuit Board of an old cell phone to grab the correct SMD LED which i did (Optional)
|- LED Model / Part No : 0x0020

5-A Point Type low Watt Soldering Iron [≤ 30W is Recommended]

6- A Resin Based Solder [Note: When using non-resin based solder, be sure to apply a solder paste to the part before applying the solder]

Ok , Now i assume you have got all the stuffs ready with you.
Now Before geting on to Logitech's control POD its very important to grab Some new LED's to replace the old one's.
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B - Gaining new LED's :-

The trick i used was screwing one of my old cell phone in order to get new LED's as even these are minature One's. However its always up to you to how to get it. May be you can ask with some mobile technician. .
You will need a total of Six LED's and atleast two or three as back up's as if in case you kills one or two. So a total of eight or even more may be better...

ssource.jpg

The Red-Box Marks are the One we were looking for. yeah those small tiny peanut's... just pluck them. Use the soldering iron on either sides of an LED's terminal's to release it from the Circuit Board.
The LED's i gained emits perfect white light. So in this guide i have included an easy step to transform it in to BLUE which you will see soon...

[Caution:- Applying too much heat or holding the soldering iron for a long time near the LED will surely damage it]

Ok now we have some new LED's.
Lets have a closer look at them.....

27442645.jpg

My cam struggled a bit to get focused on these tiny nuts i must say..
Ok, now its time to move on to the multimeter...

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C -Multimeter Settings :-

Now its time to identify the polarity of new gained LED's as it will glow only in one respective manner or polarity.
We will seek the help of a multimeter to identify it. Keep the multimeter settings in Ohms Ω [between 1000 - 2000].
May be the below preview would help you

4multimetersettings.jpg

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Now check the LED's with the multimeter as shown below. As it is polarity sensitive remember to interchange the polarities and check until it glows.

34418295.jpg

Once you determine the right polarity , be sure to mark them, as you may forget or to avoid confusions later .

So have you found it ??? Cool. Then keep it safe.. Lets now move on to the HEART of Logitech Z-5500

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D- Disassembling the Logitech Z5500 Control POD :-

First, make use of the L-key to remove the stand of the control POD.

6removingthestandbylkey.jpg

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Secondly , remove the volume knob as it would block the front cover if not done so. At first you will have to use some force to pull (i.e Perpendicular to the body) the Knob.
Please dont tilt while removing as it can cause severe damage to it.

7removingthevolumeknob.jpg

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Now use a slim type (Flat) screw driver to separate the POD's casing a part..

8detachingthepod.jpg

Use the screw driver or any flat material to release its lock

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Now it must look something like below ...

9detachedpod.jpg

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Ok, now lets get in to the real thing. The pic shown below represents the PCB of the LCD panel

spcbtodetach.jpg

Un-tighten those four screws and tilt the black metal lock [Shown in Red box] in position so that the C-board and display gets detached..

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That means , it should look something like shown below ...

20assemblingbackthelcdp.jpg

Now carefully separate the LCD panel then the light spread glass sheet followed by it. You need to use a lil bit pressure here to remove the glass sheet as it is glued on the board

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Now you might be wondering about how would be the polarity of these tiny LED's on the board. Do not worry, here below is the layout of its sign indications..

12polarityofpcb.jpg

Now record these sign notes on your mind.. or write it somewhere where u can easily interact.

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I recommend you ppl to use this particular angle to solder as you don't have to remove the black casing for doing it.

13pcbpositioningforsold.jpg

However its according to your convenience though, removing the black case is not advisable as it may cut the hidden wires behind the Master PCB

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Now get the gained LED's and put them on to the board matching the correct polarity.
Please be VERY ACCURATE in this part, as single LED soldered (out of six) in an unmatched polarity or improperly will result all your work in total vain that even a single LED wont light UP, unless all the SIX are soldered to the board properly !! (Note: Light up here in the sense, only when the control POD is powered and switched on. But not with the multimeter)

I felt a bit difficult to keep the LED seated on the board as it jumps out of the board when it see the hot solder Iron coming .... lol
So i had to use this technique i.e holding the LED with another screw driver and doing the job.
After soldering each LED, test them up using the multimeter in order to confirm whether its in good contact with the board's circuit or not. And if the connection is perfect then it won't Light Up..
!!!!!!! I REPEAT IT WONT LIGHT UP !!!!!!!!

14solderingmethod.jpg

As i mentioned before , do remember to apply a lil bit of soldering paste on to the board if u are on non-resin based solder's.

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Ok !! Have you completed all stuffs..???
Then, its time to watch our Good Works......

sdefaultcolor.jpg

Iam Sure , you will appreciate yourselves when you see these bright lights.
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Lets have a closer look at it...

sdefaultcolorclose.jpg

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E- Transforming Gained LED's White Color to Blue

This step is completely Optional as Depending up on the LED's Default color and user's interest.

The LED's which i gained emits perfect white light which iam not satisfied with. So i thought of a simple way to transform its emitted color to every one's fav, thats a Cool Blue color.
The technique was as simple as just a cake.. thats just color coating the LED's with a permanent Blue-Ink marker

17changingthecolortoblu.jpg

Oh ya !! The Marker i used was " Pilot -Twin Marker-Super Color Marker SCA-TM-B "

Note:- The transformed color gets paled eventually. So getting default Blu-Color LED's are highly recommended.

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After transformation it should look something like this ....

swithbluemarkedcolor.jpg

Now you might be wondering how the transformed LED's would light Up..
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Its always as expected or sometimes even better.....,

swithnewbluecolor.jpg

Cooooool Haaa...????? Alright !!

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F- Assembling the LCD back :-

Ok Fella's, Dont forget why we are here...
Lets do it fast.. Lets put them all back to its native position....

20assemblingbackthelcdp.jpg

Here the spread sheet goes first in to the board. Press it a lil bit harder so that it will hold good on the default factory glue.
Next the Black LCD block.. Make Sure to wipe of any dirt or dust on it that it may prevent the contact to the liquid crystals which will result in incomplete display.

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Once its complete, tighten the panel by positioning back the black metal teeth which is shown in red BOX. Remember improper tightening will produce some jumbled characters on the screen. So dont be HURRY!!

21assemblingbackthelcdi.jpg

While doing the job, please place it on a soft surface or cloth so that the PANEL wont get damaged or scratched so easily.

Ok Is Everything Done Perfect ...?!?!?!?!??!???!!!!!!

Yes!!! I hope so !!!

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| Then ItsTime to Watch Some Shows |

Now here is the result of your hard efforts....

Iam Sure , you will be PROUD once you see it....

22newalteredlookfar.jpg  23newalteredlooknightmo.jpg

 

 

24newalteredlookclose.jpg  25newalteredlooknormalv.jpg


Guess, this is how it should illuminate according to the One showed on the Logitech Z-5500's Box...

 

signatureview.jpg



Safety Tip :- Try shutting down the Power Button Behind the Sub-Woofer when the unit is not used for a longer period as it reduces the amount of heat generated inside the Control POD

Bonus Tips [On Control POD, Hold Time = 5 Sec from Roman I to III] :-
I - Hold the buttons "input" +"effect" to toggle the Diagnostic mode on & off. (Try in Standby Mode)
II - Hold the buttons "input" + "settings" to display the firmware version as well as resetting the firmware. (Try in Standby Mode)
III - Hold the buttons "input" + "effect" + "settings" + "mute" to toggle skin 2 on & off. (Try in Standby Mode)

IV - Hold Mute then turn right the volume knob to add Extra +11 Volume boost at the beginning instead of at end (Try when the Unit is On)


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JMD Projects.


Any comments will be Really Appreciated !!!!


GooD LucK

Regards,
J.M.D


Edited by J.M.D - 3/21/12 at 1:23am
    
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+ rep, Might come in handy when I buy it. thx
    
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post #3 of 81
Wow, well done! I would suggest some minor grammar/continuity improvements but everything is well documented. This won't really help me as I don't have the Logitech system but it is a very nicely assembled guide. This is exactly the caliber of guide that OCN needs more of.

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Originally Posted by mickmania View Post
+ rep, Might come in handy when I buy it. thx
Ma Pleasure... Mate..
    
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post #5 of 81
Lights turned off:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2159/100609004128.jpg



Lights turned on:

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9789/100609004249.jpg

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1634/100609004304.jpg

Basically: The backlight is not flickering , its just the writing that fades after few minutes of turning the POD ON. When I turn it off and let it cool and then turn it ON again, there is no faded writing for 1-2 minutes. Should I rely on this tutorial in order to fix my problem? Or is it a different problem?HALP.
post #6 of 81
Thread Starter 
@ 3ug3n,
Its seems that you have got a diifferent issue mate. Guess its the over heat generated inside the POD makes your LCD struggle to display it correctly. Why dont you just open the POD (so that the heat is dissipated) and confirm whether the writings are fading or not even after powering it for a long time...?
And ya try it only if your unit is out of waranty..
    
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post #7 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.M.D View Post
@ 3ug3n,
Its seems that you have got a diifferent issue mate. Guess its the over heat generated inside the POD makes your LCD struggle to display it correctly. Why dont you just open the POD (so that the heat is dissipated) and confirm whether the writings are fading or not even after powering it for a long time...?
And ya try it only if your unit is out of waranty..
An electrician told me it's cause of false circuits , and he will come in a week end to help me out , we gonna open it and do some checking. Prolly i'll replace the LED's too just so i can have a nicer blue.And yes you are right its heat-related , if i turn it off and let it cool off the writing will be back to normal, especially if I turn the whole system from behind of the subwoofer. Thanks for your reply.
post #8 of 81
I've made it replacing all the LEDs , but while I was getting everything back in place , more exactly when I was closing the LCD display, a LED died , the one in the left bottom corner. So I tried reviving him by soldering without taking the LCD metal box off because I was friggin tired after 5 hours of fighting with these tiny babies. Ofcourse I've done something wrong cuz now none of the LED's would light up.To be more precise I was trying to make it stickier to the board as it was moving almost freely , so I thought of extenting the solder to the left of the LED , and that's when the lights turned off.So I took LED off and started investigating. If I use the multimeter at 200 ohms to check for any lights , the 5 LEDs will light up, but if I solder the 6th LED there will be no lights , just values on the multimeter(and I think this is a good thing), about 90 ohms on each connection to be more precise,checked them all. However , even so , it still won't light up the way it did before I tried to repair the LED carelessly.And yes , the heat gets dissipated and LCD's writing wont fade while the pieces are out of the box. However , getting them back in the box would take me back to my old problem.
Edited by 3ug3n - 10/19/09 at 5:09am
post #9 of 81
Thread Starter 
is ur product still under warranty...??? If so , i would recommend to RMA it as you have created a second problem i.e dead LED's..lol. However if you are able to fix your LED's, the over heating problem will still remain which will fade your liquid crystals.

Now about the LED's:-
- After fixing each LED's make sure it wont light up [do it for each LED's alternatively] and while checking the LED's go for the hgiher value ohms in the multimeter i.e >1000.
Also make sure about the correct polarity
- Never attempt to power up the POD unless all the 6 LED's are in place.
- Please remember that if one LED fails or soldered improperly, nothing will light up.

Hope that helps
    
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post #10 of 81
Lol , I just finished reconnecting the LCD panel wires in the main board , cuz the system is 3 years old and the wires got disconnected from the main board(such a pain in the ass). The tranzistors inside are very hot and I'm thinking of installing a 40mm fan inside to fix the fading problem.

Now , after I finished reconnecting the lcd cable to the main board , I thought of going back at working on the LEDs .

Heres the problem now:
1.the 3 LED s on each side work seperately from the other side (don't know if thats normal since till now they were all working together). For eg if I check 1 LED on the right side only those 3 on the right side will light up.
2.Being a moron I ripped off the lower left LED along with the Minus(-) contact which makes it hard now to find the minus , as it is almost as small as a pixel.

If you have the time and patience please send me your mail so we can chat via yahoo or msn. ty.

PS : i do not have it under warranty as it expired 1 year ago and I bought 8 blue LED's from the electronics shop
Edited by 3ug3n - 10/19/09 at 10:11am
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