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A Complete Guide to Fix the Flickering or Dimming Backlight of logitech Z 5500 D Control POD

post #1 of 89
9/2/09 at 12:51pm
Thread Starter 

|` FIX YOUR DYING or DEAD BACK-LIGHT OF LOGITECH Z5500 CONTROL POD `|
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Completed Stage [Blue LED lighting] :-


22newalteredlookfar.jpg  23newalteredlooknightmo.jpg

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For the detailed step-by-step Article/Guide, Please visit ! HERE !

 

If you have a question , please ask it in the Blog !

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- J.M.D


Edited by J.M.D - 12/21/12 at 12:02pm
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post #2 of 89
9/2/09 at 12:56pm
+ rep, Might come in handy when I buy it. thx
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post #3 of 89
9/2/09 at 1:00pm
Wow, well done! I would suggest some minor grammar/continuity improvements but everything is well documented. This won't really help me as I don't have the Logitech system but it is a very nicely assembled guide. This is exactly the caliber of guide that OCN needs more of.

+Rep
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post #4 of 89
9/4/09 at 2:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmania View Post
+ rep, Might come in handy when I buy it. thx
Ma Pleasure... Mate..
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post #5 of 89
10/6/09 at 9:16am
Lights turned off:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2159/100609004128.jpg



Lights turned on:

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9789/100609004249.jpg

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1634/100609004304.jpg

Basically: The backlight is not flickering , its just the writing that fades after few minutes of turning the POD ON. When I turn it off and let it cool and then turn it ON again, there is no faded writing for 1-2 minutes. Should I rely on this tutorial in order to fix my problem? Or is it a different problem?HALP.
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post #6 of 89
10/8/09 at 8:44am
Thread Starter 
@ 3ug3n,
Its seems that you have got a diifferent issue mate. Guess its the over heat generated inside the POD makes your LCD struggle to display it correctly. Why dont you just open the POD (so that the heat is dissipated) and confirm whether the writings are fading or not even after powering it for a long time...?
And ya try it only if your unit is out of waranty..
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post #7 of 89
10/8/09 at 9:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.M.D View Post
@ 3ug3n,
Its seems that you have got a diifferent issue mate. Guess its the over heat generated inside the POD makes your LCD struggle to display it correctly. Why dont you just open the POD (so that the heat is dissipated) and confirm whether the writings are fading or not even after powering it for a long time...?
And ya try it only if your unit is out of waranty..
An electrician told me it's cause of false circuits , and he will come in a week end to help me out , we gonna open it and do some checking. Prolly i'll replace the LED's too just so i can have a nicer blue.And yes you are right its heat-related , if i turn it off and let it cool off the writing will be back to normal, especially if I turn the whole system from behind of the subwoofer. Thanks for your reply.
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post #8 of 89
10/18/09 at 9:42pm
I've made it replacing all the LEDs , but while I was getting everything back in place , more exactly when I was closing the LCD display, a LED died , the one in the left bottom corner. So I tried reviving him by soldering without taking the LCD metal box off because I was friggin tired after 5 hours of fighting with these tiny babies. Ofcourse I've done something wrong cuz now none of the LED's would light up.To be more precise I was trying to make it stickier to the board as it was moving almost freely , so I thought of extenting the solder to the left of the LED , and that's when the lights turned off.So I took LED off and started investigating. If I use the multimeter at 200 ohms to check for any lights , the 5 LEDs will light up, but if I solder the 6th LED there will be no lights , just values on the multimeter(and I think this is a good thing), about 90 ohms on each connection to be more precise,checked them all. However , even so , it still won't light up the way it did before I tried to repair the LED carelessly.And yes , the heat gets dissipated and LCD's writing wont fade while the pieces are out of the box. However , getting them back in the box would take me back to my old problem.
Edited by 3ug3n - 10/19/09 at 5:09am
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post #9 of 89
10/19/09 at 8:34am
Thread Starter 
is ur product still under warranty...??? If so , i would recommend to RMA it as you have created a second problem i.e dead LED's..lol. However if you are able to fix your LED's, the over heating problem will still remain which will fade your liquid crystals.

Now about the LED's:-
- After fixing each LED's make sure it wont light up [do it for each LED's alternatively] and while checking the LED's go for the hgiher value ohms in the multimeter i.e >1000.
Also make sure about the correct polarity
- Never attempt to power up the POD unless all the 6 LED's are in place.
- Please remember that if one LED fails or soldered improperly, nothing will light up.

Hope that helps
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OCZ Vertex-4 128 GB SSD + Hitachi 320G HDD + WD... LG-DVD±RAM | P-ATA CPU : T.R.U.E 120 Rev.C [ Lapped ] + Scythe Ult... GPU : Arctic Accelero XTREME Plus + VR003 
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Fans : 5 x Xigma 120mm | X-Silent 140mm | CM 200mm Win 8 Pro-MC - 64bit SAMSUNG 20" LCD [ Primary |1600x900 ] G-HANZ 32" HD LCD TV [ Extended | 1366x768 ] 
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Microsoft SIdeWinder x6 Gaming Keyboard SeaSonic ® S12D-850 Watts [80+ Silver | DC-to-DC] Cooler Master™ - HAF 922 [ Xtreme Modded ] Microsoft Optical Standard 
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Auzen X-Fi™ Prelude + LME49710HA Op-amp Logitech™ Z-5500 Digital 5.1 [ Modded ] FiiO™ E5 Head-Phone Amp + SoundMagic MP-21 in-ear TIM : Cool-Laboratory Liquid Ultra & Tuniq-TX 4 
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Surge Protector : Belkin 4-Way UPS : Generic 1000 VA Flash Drives : 2 x 4-GiG's Stick 
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Ma °l| X-PLOD-1|l°
(24 items)
  		  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD® Phenom-II x4 955 BE - Lapped | 4.14 GHz Asus M4A79T-Deluxe U3S6 [ 790FX | 10 Phase ] Galaxy GTX 470 [ Core=777 | Mem=1800 ] 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 1700 MHz | NB=2800 MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
OCZ Vertex-4 128 GB SSD + Hitachi 320G HDD + WD... LG-DVD±RAM | P-ATA CPU : T.R.U.E 120 Rev.C [ Lapped ] + Scythe Ult... GPU : Arctic Accelero XTREME Plus + VR003 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Fans : 5 x Xigma 120mm | X-Silent 140mm | CM 200mm Win 8 Pro-MC - 64bit SAMSUNG 20" LCD [ Primary |1600x900 ] G-HANZ 32" HD LCD TV [ Extended | 1366x768 ] 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft SIdeWinder x6 Gaming Keyboard SeaSonic ® S12D-850 Watts [80+ Silver | DC-to-DC] Cooler Master™ - HAF 922 [ Xtreme Modded ] Microsoft Optical Standard 
AudioAudioAudioOther
Auzen X-Fi™ Prelude + LME49710HA Op-amp Logitech™ Z-5500 Digital 5.1 [ Modded ] FiiO™ E5 Head-Phone Amp + SoundMagic MP-21 in-ear TIM : Cool-Laboratory Liquid Ultra & Tuniq-TX 4 
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Surge Protector : Belkin 4-Way UPS : Generic 1000 VA Flash Drives : 2 x 4-GiG's Stick 
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post #10 of 89
10/19/09 at 10:07am
Lol , I just finished reconnecting the LCD panel wires in the main board , cuz the system is 3 years old and the wires got disconnected from the main board(such a pain in the ass). The tranzistors inside are very hot and I'm thinking of installing a 40mm fan inside to fix the fading problem.

Now , after I finished reconnecting the lcd cable to the main board , I thought of going back at working on the LEDs .

Heres the problem now:
1.the 3 LED s on each side work seperately from the other side (don't know if thats normal since till now they were all working together). For eg if I check 1 LED on the right side only those 3 on the right side will light up.
2.Being a moron I ripped off the lower left LED along with the Minus(-) contact which makes it hard now to find the minus , as it is almost as small as a pixel.

If you have the time and patience please send me your mail so we can chat via yahoo or msn. ty.

PS : i do not have it under warranty as it expired 1 year ago and I bought 8 blue LED's from the electronics shop
Edited by 3ug3n - 10/19/09 at 10:11am
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