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A Complete Guide to Fix the Flickering or Dimming Backlight of logitech Z 5500 D Control POD - Page 11

post #101 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcarusLSC View Post

That is cool, how is the readability in the dark? Where did you get it from and what did you do?! Looks great! Thanks smile.gif

The screens (I ordered two, a spare just incase as they quoted a month to arrive) came from China. I thought I'd ordered an exact replacement, turns out I hadn't indeed I had purchased the inverted model, they came from a company called cart100, they basically represent loads of factories out there, I was quite worried I was going to find my account cleared out to be honest, however they were packaged well arrived damage free.

http://cart100.com/Product/35873223262/Genuine_Pegasus_TM202QDCU6_liquid_crysta

Looking at the picture on that link it didn't even dawn on me how dark the screen was unlit, but the model number is what I had looking at the board itself.

Readability in the dark is fine, strong direct sunlight is proving harder to read but was still easier to read than the faded original screen.

I had originally planned to replace just the led's as per the main guide but I ended up just replacing the entire board that the screen is attached to. All I had to do was de-solder the ribbon cable, clean it up and solder it back onto the new screen. There was nothing more to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J.M.D View Post

Looks Great thumb.gif. Guess its the inverted type display. But still its cool.

Yup, heating inside the POD is an issue which might affect the life of it. So heat sinks are the best ways to withstand it.

I've had the speakers almost 10 years (I bought them at Christmas 2006) and other than the screen issue and a few blown fuses over time they're still going strong. But with their age and the fact I had the control deck in pieces I figured I would attach a few heatsinks to the main chips inside. I had a few spare that were lying around from an old graphics card kit that were just about the right size with the sticky thermal pads already attached so it was a case of peel and stick.


Altogether I'm glad the screen worked and as much as my brain is telling me it looks wrong because I'm used to the original screen, I can't help but think the inverted screen actually looks better.
Edited by WikingBIZARRE - 3/26/15 at 10:31am
post #102 of 134
Do you have a picture of it in the dark? What is this heat sink issue you guys are talking about?
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post #103 of 134
Here's a piccy of the screen in the dark IcarusLSC, as you can see it has a bit of the typical backlight clouding/bleed issues but otherwise it is a great read in the dark.




Heatsink wise the back of the control deck can get quite hot so I believe some people have taken to adding heatsinks to the major chips or in some cases even a fan to help remove hot air from the unit.
post #104 of 134
Thanks greatly for the info and help. I should order one and see how it goes. I'm sick of not seeing anything in the dark as all my leds are out and I wasn't able to solder new ones on...
Thanks for the info on the heatsinks too. Maybe I'll look at that too when I have it open again, as I have lots of little sinks kicking around from different things. smile.gif
Edited by IcarusLSC - 3/26/15 at 7:46pm
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post #105 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by WikingBIZARRE View Post

Hi Guys,

First time poster here but I thought I'd show you my attempt/result at fixing my fading screen. After following this guide and realising my soldering skills really weren't up to the job I gave up trying to replace the individual LEDs and I didn't want to use the other methods of adding LEDs I'd seen so I found a complete replacement screen instead. Colour wise the screen wasn't what I meant to buy, but tell me what you guys think.



ps, thanks for the inspiration to try repairing this, reading the heat issues I added a few heatsinks too.

Just wanted to bump this thread by saying this LCD board also works on the Logitech Z680 5.1 speaker set. The back-light on my receiver had been giving me problems for a couple of years now and after reading WikingBIZARRE's post (Thanks!) I decided to order a replacement from the cart100.com link he provided. After a bit or desoldering and then re-soldering the wire harness to the new LCD board my receiver was back in business.

post #106 of 134
Nice, I really should order one. I used some 3v 3mm leds and wire to run them to the top sides and put lil notches for them, works ok, but nothing near as cool as those black ones smile.gif I leave mine on basically 24/7 for music...
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post #107 of 134
Thanks for the likes guys, feeling like I might have started a new trend...
post #108 of 134
First time poster here too.
I'm also trying to get my z5500 to light up again.
I've tried to order that LCD board from Cart100.com, but their order system doesn't seem to want to accept my CapitalOne VISA card.
Did you all have those kinds of problems too?
I'll retry the payment in a day or two in case they're just temporary connection problems, but the whole thing is starting to make me a little nervous now.

Franco
post #109 of 134
Update, I tried later in the day from a different computer, different browser, and it worked.
What hadn't worked from firefox on linux worked first time using Internet Explorer on windows.
Age old internet problem, their payment processor's e-commerce platform only works on IE in windows.
Franco
post #110 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by franchetiello View Post

Update, I tried later in the day from a different computer, different browser, and it worked.
What hadn't worked from firefox on linux worked first time using Internet Explorer on windows.
Age old internet problem, their payment processor's e-commerce platform only works on IE in windows.
Franco

I do recall receiving a fraud alert from my credit card provider (Chase) after initially placing my order. Once I confirmed the seller was legit through the credit card website I was able to re-place the order. Just a heads up.
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