Hello I joined here to update people on my findings. This topic is found through Google the easiest and the most info seems to be found here.
I followed Drakeen
's guide to use 3mm LED's to fix my lighting.
A few problems we encountered: powering the LED's with Drakeen's + (it's 2.7V, BTW) and - (ground) would lead to the LED's being on all the time, even if powered down. So we decided on adding a relay switch that would switch at about 3 to 4V. We wanted to use the dual-color power LED but that would turn off when the relay switch would switch. So we found another point that supplied a 3.3V source that engages when powered on ONLY.
Pic credit goes to semtex1301, edited by me:
The BLUE points I used for the relay switch. The PURPLE one we used for the LED's together with the BLUE ground. Be sure to check if the BLUE + is the correct one, I can't find a very high resolution image but it's just above the headphone jack, the small hole most-left. It should give 3.3V when turned on an 0V when turned off. The PURPLE should give 2.7V or it could also be 2.9V, I'm not sure. In the end this is the result:
A decently lit screen, the LED's are white. The power LED button was painted from the inside to have a much dimmer look.
EDIT: I found out that when the 3.3V is connected and you use the remote, the LCD screen LED's go off for a fraction of a second. I suspect it's the Power LED feed.Edited by Phuncz - 7/4/12 at 12:40pm