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A Complete Guide to Fix the Flickering or Dimming Backlight of logitech Z 5500 D Control POD - Page 9

post #81 of 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by intercepted View Post

looks good. where did you get your leds?

www.reichelt.de
a large german electronics supplier
post #82 of 129
Hello I joined here to update people on my findings. This topic is found through Google the easiest and the most info seems to be found here.

I followed Drakeen's guide to use 3mm LED's to fix my lighting.

A few problems we encountered: powering the LED's with Drakeen's + (it's 2.7V, BTW) and - (ground) would lead to the LED's being on all the time, even if powered down. So we decided on adding a relay switch that would switch at about 3 to 4V. We wanted to use the dual-color power LED but that would turn off when the relay switch would switch. So we found another point that supplied a 3.3V source that engages when powered on ONLY.

Pic credit goes to semtex1301, edited by me:

z5500_pcb.jpg

The BLUE points I used for the relay switch. The PURPLE one we used for the LED's together with the BLUE ground. Be sure to check if the BLUE + is the correct one, I can't find a very high resolution image but it's just above the headphone jack, the small hole most-left. It should give 3.3V when turned on an 0V when turned off. The PURPLE should give 2.7V or it could also be 2.9V, I'm not sure. In the end this is the result:

IMG_1803.jpg

A decently lit screen, the LED's are white. The power LED button was painted from the inside to have a much dimmer look.

EDIT: I found out that when the 3.3V is connected and you use the remote, the LCD screen LED's go off for a fraction of a second. I suspect it's the Power LED feed.
Edited by Phuncz - 7/4/12 at 12:40pm
post #83 of 129
Hey! J.M.D's guide was a great guide and really helped me out. The LED backlights on my Z-5500's control pod died after a year of usage. I ran across the OP's guide sometime last year but didn't feel brave enough to mess with the pod back then. Today I finally gave it a try.

I used the exact method J.M.D. described so I didn't bother taking any step-by-step pictures. I acquired my replacement LEDs from one of those LED lightbulbs for car cabins (like this one here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/42mm-16-SMD-Bright-White-3528-Festoon-Light-Car-Interior-Dome-LED-Light-Bulb-/110907417511?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item19d298e3a7). The only bump I ran into during the process was that the replacement LEDs are slightly taller than the ones Logitech used, so the lightspreader plate didn't fit - so I had to trim the plate short on both ends. Other than that, everything worked as planned! smile.gif

Here's the end result:
357
(I kept the LEDs white because I like the effect. smile.gif paint it whatever color you want, like the OP described!)

P.S. - One small thing I forgot to mention - the OP stated to have the Multimeter set to 2000ohm. This did not work for me (the LEDs weren't glowing at this setting). I had to turn it down to 200ohm for the LEDs to glow. Worked on both the replacement LEDs and the original Logitech ones.
post #84 of 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuncz View Post

Hello I joined here to update people on my findings. This topic is found through Google the easiest and the most info seems to be found here.
I followed Drakeen's guide to use 3mm LED's to fix my lighting.
A few problems we encountered: powering the LED's with Drakeen's + (it's 2.7V, BTW) and - (ground) would lead to the LED's being on all the time, even if powered down. So we decided on adding a relay switch that would switch at about 3 to 4V. We wanted to use the dual-color power LED but that would turn off when the relay switch would switch. So we found another point that supplied a 3.3V source that engages when powered on ONLY.
Pic credit goes to semtex1301, edited by me:
z5500_pcb.jpg
The BLUE points I used for the relay switch. The PURPLE one we used for the LED's together with the BLUE ground. Be sure to check if the BLUE + is the correct one, I can't find a very high resolution image but it's just above the headphone jack, the small hole most-left. It should give 3.3V when turned on an 0V when turned off. The PURPLE should give 2.7V or it could also be 2.9V, I'm not sure. In the end this is the result:
IMG_1803.jpg
A decently lit screen, the LED's are white. The power LED button was painted from the inside to have a much dimmer look.
EDIT: I found out that when the 3.3V is connected and you use the remote, the LCD screen LED's go off for a fraction of a second. I suspect it's the Power LED feed.


Is there any reason you didnt connect the leds to the 3.3V feed you are using to trigger the relay instead of using the 2.7V line?
post #85 of 129
Hi and thanks for putting this guide together, once the light has gone it is incredibly annoying.

My question, like so many other is "what is an 0x0020 LED?" I've googled it but can't find it... I've tried pretty hard to find out what they are.

I attempted to remove some from an old mobile (looked a lot like yours) but the LED's were dead when I tested them (no movement on the multimeter at all).

What I'd like to suggest is that there is an alternative name for the 0x0020 LED? as the link below shows a standard name '1206' and a metric name '3216' in brackets.

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Optoelectronics/Surface-Mount-LEDs/1206-3216-metric

Or if you could select a suitable LED from this site, I think it would help everyone massively!
post #86 of 129
Hmm, I've found this on wikipedia (of all places).. so I guess I can measure the original LEDs and get the match from that.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SMT_sizes,_based_on_original_by_Zureks.svg

*edit* Physically checking the LED taken from my nokia, it is 1mm which is metric code 1005 and imperial 0402... I'm going to order some of these then take the pod apart and will update with the measurements from the pod.
Edited by frobinrobin - 11/29/12 at 1:42am
post #87 of 129
Dear I have a problem bit different here...The control pod works fine, the backlight turns on but i dont getany TEXT on it....its just blank blue light. what might be the problem? is it any IC or LED or LCD ? can i get this LCD from any shop that fits in as the original one?
post #88 of 129
I have had the Z-5500 for several years and I ahve not had the flickering issue but recently the LCD characters have started to bleed (black line horizontaly through the middle. I knowit is different from this fix but was wonderingif anyone had any ideas to fix this?
post #89 of 129
Thx for the guide. I buy SMD 805 leds from Led1.de It's very small and difficult to weld...
Before, leds are close to death :

During :

After ( in real, the result is better ) but the light is a little strong when watching a movie in the dark:


I will add a black pen dot on each LED to have less brightness, I will update the picture. thumb.gif
Edited by Empereur - 4/20/13 at 1:59am
post #90 of 129
Hello,
I am currently swapping my leds out with new ones and I need the polarity picture to put my new leds on. The links appear to be dead on the website.. is there a shot you can upload it or somebody inform me of the polarity?
Edited by dakotart1984 - 8/14/13 at 9:00pm
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