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[Official] Corsair Obsidian 900D/800D/750D/700D/650D/550D/450D/350D/250D Club - Page 425

post #4241 of 8654
Usually post pics in the 650D thread but thought I'd throw a couple here as well. biggrin.gif Finally took some decent pics of my system in the 650D. Moved from a Lancool K62 and love all the extra room! thumb.gif

700

400

wheee.gif
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post #4242 of 8654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robilar View Post

Updated my Scout again. It's m official portable media pc for around the house.
I updated my main system and moved a couple of the parts over to the Scout.
It now runs a 2600k, Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard, 8 GB of G.skill RAM, 6 TB hard drive space (Main drive is a 150GB Velociraptor), Creative Sound card, Asus 6850 GPU.
I also grabbed a Kuhler 920 to cool the cpu as well.
The case is starting to get a bit heavy... I still have two more free SATA slots for additional hard drives (I bought a Lian Li hard drive cage which can hold 3 and adds an extra fan mount up front as well.)

I believe you are in the wrong thread, sir. Not a bad htpc at all though. It could put some of my friend's gaming rigs to shame
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post #4243 of 8654
@PunchlinePro

I'll have to try that myself one day. Since convection is such a weak force, easily overcome by a fan, I wouldn't think it would have much effect. I wonder if these tests were under load. I know my case gets quite warm with both video cards running full bore. I sure wouldn't want heat like that being sucked into my psu. Something to test out.
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post #4244 of 8654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

@PunchlinePro
I'll have to try that myself one day. Since convection is such a weak force, easily overcome by a fan, I wouldn't think it would have much effect. I wonder if these tests were under load. I know my case gets quite warm with both video cards running full bore. I sure wouldn't want heat like that being sucked into my psu. Something to test out.

The test was done with simultaneous Prime95 and Furmark. Cooling: two front 120mm front intake fans and one 120mm rear exhaust at 1000RPM. The PSU should have a second fan to blow back, for that would help the PSU temp when mounted fan down. If the temps were better the other way, I still would keep it like this because I am more about appearance, and i don't think 40°C to 42°C max really matters.
Edited by PunchlinePro - 5/1/12 at 9:16pm
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post #4245 of 8654
So I know there was a bunch of talk back and fourth but just curious what are the recommendations at this point for a basic fan controller ideally looking for CD bay size black in color led color either adjustable or removeable and have at least 4 knobs 6 is ok but prob cost more all for around 20-40 bucks. Unless there is one for 50 that is 10x better and comes with higher recommendations I just cannot seem to pinpoint one yet.

Other comments
-i got a gift card to bestbuy for 25bucks i would love to spend any ideas on what? im trying to see if they sell fan controllers
-i got gift cards to the egg of the new as well, so thats most likely my place of purchase but im open to others like cpu frozen or what not.

thanks, PS i got the 700D

I should prob mention i also have 2 fan controllers that i cannot stand

1. aerocool gatewatcher 2 i believe its in my sig (max rpm per channel says 1000rpm that just wont cut it, plus im missing thermal plugs= makes unit blink-u can disable)
2. vantec nexus 4 knobs blue leds (damn thing buzzes my ears off forces me to keep brand new Yates at full speed vs buzz)
Edited by nycste - 5/1/12 at 10:20pm
post #4246 of 8654
Quote:
Originally Posted by PunchlinePro View Post

The test was done with simultaneous Prime95 and Furmark. Cooling: two front 120mm front intake fans and one 120mm rear exhaust at 1000RPM. The PSU should have a second fan to blow back, for that would help the PSU temp when mounted fan down. If the temps were better the other way, I still would keep it like this because I am more about appearance, and i don't think 40°C to 42°C max really matters.

I agree that a couple of degrees c doesn't make much difference. Of course, you have a kW power supply, and I'm using a 750W supply, so my supply may be operating closer to max temp than yours is. In that case a couple of degs c may make a difference. However, you've given me an idea to look into perhaps modding the power supply case to add a fan on the top blowing onto the circuit board from the back. It may or may not be worth doing depending on how much room there is between the pcb and the psu chassis, but if there's even 5mm of space I may be able to get a good air flow going on there.

Next time I take my case apart for modding, I'll pull the psu and have a look. Thanks for the idea.

@nycste

I'm really sorry, I made you a long response with links to some great fan controllers and a little warning about the Aerocool controllers (function OK, nice looks but poor build quality) and somehow I managed to delete the entire response.

In short, on Newegg, the Scythe controllers are nice controllers, but are only 1 Amp per channel (12W) which is fine for a single fan on each channel. I like the scythe controllers myself, especially the one with the Vacuum Fluorescent Display.

There is a Sunbeam controller that's like 30W per channel, it's also aluminum and looks pretty sweet if you're into that. It's a popular choice. There is also a lamptron controller that is 45W per channel. It's also a popular choice and very functional.
Zalman makes a couple of OK controllers as well. Not great max amperage per channel (adequate though) but some have extra functions like a PWM channel (multiple PWM fans controlled from one channel), and one even has a wattage meter that will give you a reading on the total power your system is using. I have one on my other computer and it works great. It does have a sort of primitive control system though.

The Aerocool units (I have a Strike X) look awesome if you're into multicoloured displays and touch screens. I actually had to strip mine down (Strike X), resolder the output transistors and use thermal epoxy on the heat sinks because the company used hot melt glue and the holes in the board were not plated through wich caused two of the transistors to stop working.

They also have a Logisys that looks really interesting because it will control 3-pin or 4-pin fans, and has 36W per channel but I have no experience with that brand at all.

Good luck deciding.
Edited by Mergatroid - 5/2/12 at 5:09pm
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post #4247 of 8654
Hey thanks for your response is there a way to mod my nexus vantec controller to remove the high pitch buzzing sound when the knob is below 60 percent or.is it just spare parts
post #4248 of 8654
Is the noise coming from the fans or the controller? Does it have a temp alarm on it? A noise like that is very unusual for a controller, however some fans just don't like being under-volted so make sure your Yate Loon fans are cooperating. Try one different fan on another channel and see if it generates the same noise.

If the noise is coming from the controller, try and determine which part is producing it. If it has a temp alarm or an alarm for fan RPM, try removing the piezoelectric speaker from the board. It can be desoldered if you have the equipment. If you're not sure if it's causing the problem, you can use a straw in your ear pointed at or touching the device to narrow the noise down.

Usually noises like that in electronics are caused by transformers or coils. Fan motors have coils in them (armatures), and fan controllers may have output coils (some people mistake them for capacitors) and I suppose they could also use transformers, but that's unlikely. If you can narrow down the part emitting the noise it may be replaceable. If not, new controllers are pretty cheap.
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post #4249 of 8654
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post #4250 of 8654
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirWaWa View Post

http://www.techpowerup.com/165376/Corsair-Adds-Cooling-Fans-to-Product-Line.html
so who's gonna try these first?

The airflow versions look like slipstreams. tongue.gif
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