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TEC Question

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I have a built a what I thought was a nice water cooled tec rig but am being to wonder if I have or not,

I have a 320w pelt on a amd64 3400 clocked to 2820 at 1.7v this is cooled by a dd maze 4 water block I am using ThermoChill 120.2 rad and a ThermoChill 160.1 rad to cool them. in the same loop I have a 172w pelt cooling my 6800gt which is clocked at 400/1220

This is all done with 1/2inch tubing and a d4 danger den pump

I use 2 pc power supply’s to power the tec and the pc I have a 420w ocz witch is rated at 33amps on the 12 volt line powering the 320w pelt on the cpu
and 600w enermax powering the pc and the 170w pelt on the g/card

I don’t no what temps I get on the g/card as it all ways show 256c even at full load I have read that means it is below 27c so that is not to bad

The cpu ides at about 25 to 28c below case temp
at full load it is about 2 to 4 degrees c above case temp


this seems to be quit a swing to me I would have thought I could kempt it lower than that

All my blocks I scred up good and Tight

I am not sure of my water temps to be honest as I broke my themoter but before I broke it there was only a 2 to 3c rise in temps and then it leaved off

The more I think about it the more I can’t help feeling there should be lower temps than I am

sorry for the long post but wanted to get all the info in anyway any help people can give would be great even if its to say thinks seem fine to them, the point is I just don’t no


T.I.A
post #2 of 20
Do you know the TECs' rated voltages? A lot of the bigger peltiers are rated at 24 volts, so with a PC PSU you're only getting about half the cooling power. Before you get worried, however, realize that peltiers are most efficient at about half their rated voltage. In other words, if at 12 volts a 24V TEC will produce allmost no heat, though it will move the heat. In other words, a 320 watt TEC at half voltage will be about 160 watts. It'll be able to move the 160 watts from the cold side to the hot side without adding much heat of it's own. HOWEVER if your CPU is producing more than 160 watts (I don't know processor's power consumption) the TEC will be overloaded and will get above ambient (just like yours is.. Idle works good, but load is above ambient.) Maybe if you could figure out how to give the TEC about 15 or so volts, it'd work better. Try to find the rated voltage/power of the pelt and I could help you further.
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post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
15v 26amps ment to put that in the post

http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=13171

here is a usefull chart for working out watt's

the 172 on the g/card is 24v so I get 126watt
the 320 on the cpu is 15v so I get 305watt

wich I should be enough to take care off the cpu I would have thought


ps where did you get your artic web from m8
post #4 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL9000
ps where did you get your artic web from m8
I got it at Winstch Lab's website. They're close down, however, and I don't think they're making them anymore. The only other TEC block I know of is by Swiftech and I think 226 is as big as they go. You could, however, order 437W tec separately. I believe frozencpu.com sell them.
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post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
the Swiftech tec block could handle my 320 pelt as it is a 50mm x 50mm would it be any better that the dd maze 4 I have I doint no.....

and its a lot of money to fine out its no better.....

Anyway back to my frist q should I be getting better ?
post #6 of 20
What is the "ambient" temp? The reason I ask is because the cooler the hot side is, the more efficient it runs, also. That means it'll pull less current and produce less of it's own heat. So if your room is pretty warm, then the TEC has to work even harder, producing more heat, and possibly overloading your water loop.

oops, my g/f wants me to go with her so I'll finish later...
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post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Right have got some temps for you all to look at would like some input if you can.

The start temps I am talking about are where every think was before I booted up
One think that spring to my mind is that the idle of the cpu and the full load is a difference of 31c that strikes me as rather a lot, but as I said before I don’t really no that’s the problem I am looking for a fault that may not be there.

Anyway any help anyone can give would be most helpfully

water temps


start temp 23
idle temp 26
full load temp 27



case temp


start temp 23
idle temp 25
full load temp 25


cpu temp


start temp 23
idle temp 7
full load temp 38
post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 
bit off a up date. the power supply I am using for the 320 pelt on the cpu is a ocz 470 this can handle 33a on the 12 volt line and all so has a little screw in the back that change's the voltage from 11v to 14v (this I have checked with a volt meter) but if you change it and watch the temps it seem to make no change atall maybe 1c if that.

That dose not make alot of sense to me

I would have thought a 3v change up or down would have some effect

anyway like I say any thought would be great

T.I.A
post #9 of 20
The lower the voltage you give the TEC, the more efficiently it will run. That is, at least, if it can still handle the heat load. Look here:

http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...e-1-basic.html

From that:

Quote:
A peltier works best at around 50% of its max rated voltage while being cooled properly. This is proportional slightly and not linear in overall wattage. This to say, a 160 watt peltier, running at 50% of its rated 12 volts at around 13.33 amps, at around 5-6 volts at around 6 amps, will move heat quicker and more efficiently than the same peltier at its 12 volt maximum but will move less heat. This is something to consider as getting a fairly large peltier (320-437 watts) and then undervolting it to run in the 160 watt range will heavily outperform, from an efficiency standpoint, a normal 160 watt peltier at 160 watts.
My setup is utilizing a 437W peliter unit that is rated at 24 volts. I'm only giving it 13.5V. Basically, the closer to full voltage you give the peltier, the cooler the idle temp will be, but it won't be able to hold those temps with a large change of CPU wattage. That's probably why your idle temps are good but your load temps go up. Try giving it a little less voltage. You'll find that your idle temp won't go down much, but your full load may.

Of corse, that is if the water block that you're using on the peltier can sufficiently cool the hot side. Swiftech makes GPU waterblocks in which the peltier is actually submerged in the water. That works well with low-wattage pelts, but with bigger pelts, there isn't enough surface area for the heat to be dissipated into the water.

Also, I have not yet experimented with running two pelts on one loop. It could be that the GPU pelt is heating the water to the point where the CPU pelt can't be cooled sufficiently,j but by the time it gets to the radiators, it's then cooled enough to not show a great rise in water temps. Are you measuring the water temps between the GPU and CPU or just at the reservoir?

These are all just theories.

Also, I've found that my 437W TEC can cool my CPU to about 30°C full load when I only give it 5 volts, so something is definately awry.
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post #10 of 20
Thread Starter 
right have been playing a round a bit and if I back the cpu back to a round 2200 or even 2400mhz then my temps are good even at full load its sub ambent.

I have cheaked ever part of the water cooling and it good the cold plate is there tight in fact king bloody kong could not get it tighter so imo its just that the tec can not handly the heat at high overclocks and thats why i need a better one.

got the last one of the ebay caint fined it now (dead link) have found a other one but doint now any think about it was wondring if anyone has or could have look at it for me and see what there think.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/320Watt-Peltie...QQcmdZViewItem

the pelt I am using now is rated at 320w 15v 26amps but there was no mention of d/t

this one clames to have a d/t off 69c

Anyway like I say any help people can give would be great thx
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