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post #104011 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukss View Post

lets see how it goes..




Very nice. I have the same case, but in neon green. Loving it and will likely buy another for my next build as well.
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TT Green
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post #104012 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Flow rate is consistent thru the loop,placement is irrelevant.
However,I wouldnt put elbows or angles just before or just after.

So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop? thinking.gif

TCO
     
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post #104013 of 104983
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop? thinking.gif

TCO

Yes. Resistance has a knock on effect down the line as water doesnt compress,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction so flow rate is affected across the board.
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post #104014 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop? thinking.gif

TCO
YES. BNegative is trying to explain in less words the following:

1. Water is not compressible, because of this placement is irrelevant. Begining of the loop, end of the loop its all moving at the same speed wuth exception notes in 2.

2. It should be in a section of straight tube. Because fluid is not compressable an elbow or bend can cause turbulence that can cause a false reading on a flow meter. I would recommend a straight section of 2-3x the width of your tubing before and after a flow meter.
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post #104015 of 104983
Hello guys thanks for your thoughts in regards the flow indicator. It is not a flow meter, and yes, 90s are not the best but Im confident with my pumps and temps great. I used to have it on the top but i did not like it.

Here is a pic like it was before and after




And my current temps on load. No oc for now


btw here a video with the flow indicator right after the pump. crazy speed tho.
Edited by Yukss - 4/7/17 at 9:49am
Yukss´s rig
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Yukss´s rig
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post #104016 of 104983
Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.

Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.

Anyway I present my first real build.

post #104017 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthyTT View Post

Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.

Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.

Anyway I present my first real build.

Awesome build... well done..thumb.gif

note, yes it would be great if you used mayhem white pastel in it
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Yukss´s rig
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OCZ vertex 3 240gb  Samsung 1tb Custom Watercooling Loop Windows 10 64bit 
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Samsung 27" 2ms 1920*1080 G.SKILL km570 mx Corsair HX 850w Thermaltake core p5 
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post #104018 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukss View Post

Awesome build... well done..thumb.gif

note, yes it would be great if you used mayhem white pastel in it

Thanks! I may have to try that, only issue I can see with it is my reservoirs. I probably won't be able to see the helix anymore lol. Also that white fluid in my blue hardlines? Or should I grab something that's blue?
post #104019 of 104983
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthyTT View Post

Thanks! I may have to try that, only issue I can see with it is my reservoirs. I probably won't be able to see the helix anymore lol. Also that white fluid in my blue hardlines? Or should I grab something that's blue?

I cannot see well if you have blue hardlines. If so, try clear petg with white pastel. Or just white petg.
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OCZ vertex 3 240gb  Samsung 1tb Custom Watercooling Loop Windows 10 64bit 
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Samsung 27" 2ms 1920*1080 G.SKILL km570 mx Corsair HX 850w Thermaltake core p5 
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Yukss´s rig
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i7 3930k @4.6ghz HT 1.3 v EVGA X79 FTW gtx 1080 FE with EK waterblock 16gb Corsair Vengance 
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OCZ vertex 3 240gb  Samsung 1tb Custom Watercooling Loop Windows 10 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung 27" 2ms 1920*1080 G.SKILL km570 mx Corsair HX 850w Thermaltake core p5 
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post #104020 of 104983
Hey guys, been a while since I've posted here. I built my pc desk about a year and a half ago and had to add a 2 in tall strip around it to make it taller because I forgot to take into account the height of the water block inlet and outlet block. It has not been much of a problem besides holding my arms higher but im used to that. But I recently upgraded my middle monitor to a 28" 4k monitor and since it's on a shelf, it's just barely too tall and doesn't tilt forward enough so the top of the screen is dark and shadowy.

My main point is I would like to remove the 2 inch strip so that it will be 2 inches lower and solve the arm problem and visual problem. To do that, I would like to mount the gpu on its back on the wood. Does anyone know of a good ribbon cable for connecting? And also, does anyone know a good way to either secure it or will it damage the card to let it sit there on its back?

Thanks
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