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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 10403

post #104021 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by crafty615 View Post

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted here. I built my pc desk about a year and a half ago and had to add a 2 in tall strip around it to make it taller because I forgot to take into account the height of the water block inlet and outlet block. It has not been much of a problem besides holding my arms higher but im used to that. But I recently upgraded my middle monitor to a 28" 4k monitor and since it's on a shelf, it's just barely too tall and doesn't tilt forward enough so the top of the screen is dark and shadowy.

My main point is I would like to remove the 2 inch strip so that it will be 2 inches lower and solve the arm problem and visual problem. To do that, I would like to mount the gpu on its back on the wood. Does anyone know of a good ribbon cable for connecting? And also, does anyone know a good way to either secure it or will it damage the card to let it sit there on its back?

Thanks

I use the 3m shielded riser cables, proven to work for sli and it's high quality cable. They're roughly $100 shipped, now I know this will sound weird so forgive me. I actually have the 250mm version that I need to sell, I had ordered the wrong one and missed the window to return. It's new since I had to order the 500mm version. If you're interested in it shoot me a pm, and I'll go through the appropriate channels on the forums to post it for sale.

Also I mounted mine to a piece of plexi by drilling and tapping the waterblock backplate and useing the correct screws to mount it so they didn't hit anything on the gpu. Is it the best way, probably not, but works fine for.
Edited by StealthyTT - 4/7/17 at 11:01am
post #104022 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukss View Post

I cannot see well if you have blue hardlines. If so, try clear petg with white pastel. Or just white petg.
Yeah they're blue, used them so I was able to use clear fluid. Damn I may have to switch them again then. This thing had gone through like 90ft of hardlines haha
post #104023 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Yes. Resistance has a knock on effect down the line as water doesnt compress,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction so flow rate is affected across the board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiTownButcher View Post

YES. BNegative is trying to explain in less words the following:

1. Water is not compressible, because of this placement is irrelevant. Begining of the loop, end of the loop its all moving at the same speed wuth exception notes in 2.

2. It should be in a section of straight tube. Because fluid is not compressable an elbow or bend can cause turbulence that can cause a false reading on a flow meter. I would recommend a straight section of 2-3x the width of your tubing before and after a flow meter.


All this is true TCO (@TheCautiousOne) but in the case of the Aquacomputer MPS family (MPS 100, 200 and 400) the flow meter reading is based on the differential pressure measurement and it will be affected if positioned close to the pump inlet. So don't translate what B neg and ChiTown said with the notsocautious carte blanche of putting the mps wherever you want in the loop, since for those particular models the inlet of the pump can cause serious problems with an accurate reading.
Edited by Gabrielzm - 4/7/17 at 12:31pm
post #104024 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post


All this is true TCO (@TheCautiousOne) but in the case of the Aquacomputer MPS family (MPS 100, 200 and 400) the flow meter reading is based on the differential pressure measurement and it will be affected if positioned close to the pump inlet. So don't translate what B neg and ChiTown said with the notsocautious carte blanche of putting the mps wherever you want in the loop, since for those particular models the inlet of the pump can cause serious problems with an accurate reading.

thumb.gif I am glad you can relate to the basis of which I had asked the question.

Thanks Gabe!

TCO
     
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post #104025 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthyTT View Post

Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.

Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.

Anyway I present my first real build.


Drooling. That is awesome thumb.gif
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post #104026 of 105008
Just put the panels back on after the satin black paint dried. I don't how I feel. Kind of wish I didn't paint them but we'll see once everything is re done. Potato picks incoming.
    
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post #104027 of 105008
I have noticed that satin black darkens a case interior too much. I had the interior of my 932 sprayed that color with rattle can and dang things looked dim. Even with 12" cats being used for lighting. So it's getting re-powder coated with a significantly lighter shade of black chrome inside and out. Will still be dark but not nearly as dim with LED stip lighting. tongue.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #104028 of 105008



Just finished this yesterday. Wish I could do acrylic tubing, but I don't have the tools or the skills.

Semi happy with the results, although i greatly overestimated how flexible the tubing would be.

The Corsair 460x is btw very hard to work with. Especially cable management biggrin.gif
post #104029 of 105008
emsj86 ... what case is that?
post #104030 of 105008
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

emsj86 ... what case is that?
It's a case labs sm8
    
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