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post #104121 of 104973
Wow the one near me looks like a bomb went off
    
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post #104122 of 104973
Just a little teaser still work to be done. Cables need to go in and managed. I like the white but noticed what looks to be brownish grease coming off ek cpu block so will probably drain or have to get rid of the new pastel which may suck but we'll see. I want to thank Ibruce for the reservoir thank you so much.
    
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post #104123 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post

As the others have said there is little gain in placing components in a particular order. Even if all your heat producing parts are connected and then all the rads together the difference between the coolest and warmest point of the loop will most likely be only a couple of degrees C. Rather than the coolant being warm after blocks and cool after rads it is actually all warmer than the ambient air. How much warmer depends on rad airflow and cooling capacity.
Just connecting the loop so it is neat and simply goes component to next nearest component works great.

The loop layout design here is problematic at the GPU's. Having the outlet between the two blocks like that split flow unevenly and will limit the flow rate through the bottom block to probably 1/4 the flow the top block gets. For a parallel flow GPU block setup you need the outlet underneath and offset from the top inlet.

Otherwise new plan looks great

Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?


Edited by alienalvan - 4/13/17 at 10:16pm
post #104124 of 104973
Isn't there a way to get an aquaero to calculate wattage dissippated using in and out water temps and flowrate? I'm sure I seen someone doing this years ago.. what flow sensor should I get to attempt this with an aquaero 6?
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post #104125 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by alienalvan View Post

Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

EDIT (2):Your diagram will work fine as well (see BNeg's and TCO's posts below). Consider my two diagrams options 2 and 3 to that:
2) Parallel GPUs, Serial CPU
3) Full Serial.

Connect the two together - between them... then treat both GPUs as if they were a single unit connecting to a top and a bottom port. With parallel flow you don't need to worry which you use as the flow will go through each block. The important thing is to only connect to one port at the top and one port at the bottom - so the fluid has only one way to go.

Try this:



For reference, if you ran a serial configuration rather than a parallel one you would have to use opposing ports (i.e. not the same side as the link between them). Like this:


It seems obvious the bottom setup will work... but I assure you the top one will work just as well - in some cases better even. Plus I think it always looks better but that's an aesthetic preference and I'm sure many others think the opposite. wink.gif Also I usually connect opposing sides even in parallel configurations because I'm paranoid too much fluid is 'sneaking by' without circulating in the block - which could happen depending on the design of the block itself. Better safe than sorry I guess. EDIT - Pic updated
Edited by DiGiCiDAL - 4/14/17 at 12:57pm
post #104126 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

You don't need to go back through the GPUs as that will just cause the flows to 'fight' each other and not cool things.

Connect the two together - between them... then treat both GPUs as if they were a single unit connecting to a top and a bottom port. With parallel flow you don't need to worry which you use as the flow will go through each block. The important thing is to only connect to one port at the top and one port at the bottom - so the fluid has only one way to go.

Try this:

If you put fittings on the top and bottom of the same side of a gpu block there is nothing stopping the water from going straight through, so If you do what the picture describes you won't have any cooling for the gpu's. Gpu blocks are designed to have the water go in one side and come out the other. You need to have the input to the gpus on a different side to the output.. then it will go into one side of each gpu and then out the other side and continue to the rest of the loop.

tl:dr- move the input to the bottom gpu from the pump to the left port instead of the right one, otherwise it will go straight past both gpu's.
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post #104127 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeritronX View Post

If you put fittings on the top and bottom of the same side of a gpu block there is nothing stopping the water from going straight through, so If you do what the picture describes you won't have any cooling for the gpu's. Gpu blocks are designed to have the water go in one side and come out the other. You need to have the input to the gpus on a different side to the output.. then it will go into one side of each gpu and then out the other side and continue to the rest of the loop.

tl:dr- move the input to the bottom gpu from the pump to the left port instead of the right one, otherwise it will go straight past both gpu's.

LOL I'd already edited the pic and noted that but good catch. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeritronX View Post

Isn't there a way to get an aquaero to calculate wattage dissippated using in and out water temps and flowrate? I'm sure I seen someone doing this years ago.. what flow sensor should I get to attempt this with an aquaero 6?

I tried this with an MPS400 and it was a no-go. Not saying it wouldn't work - but I couldn't get it to at any rate. I'd check on their forums for a solution.

EDIT: This is as close as I could find there... maybe you'll have better luck though.
Edited by DiGiCiDAL - 4/14/17 at 2:09am
post #104128 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by alienalvan View Post

Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?


Digi has it routed in serial, I like your picture right here. Parallel will work just fine as well. The fluid will equalize in temp. There really isn't a need for Warm/Cool fluid in your diagrams.

Personally love Parallel routes. thumb.gif

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post #104129 of 104973
Thread Starter 
You can go one step further and go everything parallel.

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post #104130 of 104973
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeritronX View Post


I had a brand new pwm ddc pump res combo from EK die on me after a week or so.. opening it up it has white powder over all the wire connection points. I think the cables were too tight where they exit and that caused it to fail, they were definitely being pinched hard as it came assembled out of the box. I haven't bothered with an rma, I pinched the shorter tube from the res part for something else and I don't know where the box for it went anyways.


The white, powdery substance you're seeing there could be tin-oxide, perhaps the result of a bad soldering job and/or excessive moisture. Used to see something similar in the engine bays of older vehicles, form around electrical points of contact (e.g., your battery terminals). Could also be galvanic in origin

We used to just clean up such electrical joints and apply a .coating of WD-40, which works great for moisture displacement and is non conductive. In today's modern circuit boards, you don't come across it that often if proper soldering materials and techniques are used that help prevent such oxidation.
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