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post #104421 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post


@DiGiCiDAL

Have you ever used a single SC Ethereal mount to mount a small/medium res/pump combo on a front rad? Or do you really need two?

Well I sorta did both (single mount but I got the CORE so it's more like a 1.5 I'd say). wink.gif


That's a 250mm res, BP D5 top/cover pump, single bracket to front radiator. smile.gif
post #104422 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by MURDoctrine View Post

Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.

tl;dr
What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?
Who is still out there recommending kill coils. Why won't they just go away already.
    
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post #104423 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post

Who is still out there recommending kill coils. Why won't they just go away already.

Because I've had it since like 2010 and honestly never had a single issue with my loop until very recently? I also had cleaned my rads properly with both a distilled water / vinegar mix when I first got them and also with full flushes with boiling distilled water. This last one I used hot water straight from the tap for 5-10 minutes on each and then flushed with 2-3 solid rinses with distilled. So I don't know. Will have all new parts except for the rads and few leftover soft tube compressions in my basement once my new stuff arrives. Plan on doing an extensive cleaning once again. I should also note I will probably be going with a pastel which will help with both biocide issues and be an inhibitor. My only concern was before adding it. I might grab some blitz as well and just run it through that too.
Edited by MURDoctrine - 4/29/17 at 5:38pm
post #104424 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

Well I sorta did both (single mount but I got the CORE so it's more like a 1.5 I'd say). wink.gif


That's a 250mm res, BP D5 top/cover pump, single bracket to front radiator. smile.gif

Nice! I think I might say good bye to my old trusty z77 M5E when the 299x chipset comes out just wondering if you plan on filling those empty PCI slots
I am on the wall what to get because I like the look of a extended ATX Mobo to fill out the case but I feel like I need to fill every slot or at least have 2 GPUs to fill the gaps.
Which now days seems the features on the board makes the need to have PCI soundcards or PCI SSDs I been thinking of getting a TV tuner card to fill my last PCIe slot though I feel I would never use it.
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post #104425 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

Nice! I think I might say good bye to my old trusty z77 M5E when the 299x chipset comes out just wondering if you plan on filling those empty PCI slots
I am on the wall what to get because I like the look of a extended ATX Mobo to fill out the case but I feel like I need to fill every slot or at least have 2 GPUs to fill the gaps.
Which now days seems the features on the board makes the need to have PCI soundcards or PCI SSDs I been thinking of getting a TV tuner card to fill my last PCIe slot though I feel I would never use it.

That's funny you mention that. I think that's one of the main reasons I got a sound card. Currently running a matx board but still felt that I needed another card down low to 'even it out'.

Don't get me wrong, I use the thing, it's just isn't really needed.
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post #104426 of 105019
I haven't posted in this group in four years... then again I've not really done much building since I finished my last build and now it is about time for me to upgrade, though I will be retaining most of my cooling system.
This time I am going to be going with the Maximus IX Extreme, i7 7700k, and a GTX 1080Ti FE (Which I already have.) I am probably going to be putting an EK Block on the 1080Ti because right now it is really warm when I play games.
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post #104427 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldChicken View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MURDoctrine View Post

Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.

tl;dr
What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?
get rid of that kill coil too. Bad news when used with nickel and imo should be replaced with a decent coolant no matter what 2cents.gif

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #104428 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.

While I've read that Thermaltake and EKWB (and perhaps others) recommend against mixing silver and nickel-plated parts, much of the evidence seems to be anecdotal; and provided by those who claimed to have problems mixing the two in a loop. Such also seems to have been a more common occurrence a few years back.

That said, what I suspect may have happened up until some point in the past was the use of subpar electroplating processes which may have contributed to the problem. In any event, you know what they mean when they say "when in doubt..."

Also somewhat interesting reading, though geared toward chemically plated metals: The Effect of Electroless Nickel Coatings on the Galvanic Corrosion of Other Metals.

Edited: Not sure who wrote that paper, but it could be authentic. The same site offers a few additional articles of interest along similar lines here.
Edited by iamjanco - 4/29/17 at 9:51pm
post #104429 of 105019
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.

Silver is outdated as a biocide.
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post #104430 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.

Silver is outdated as a biocide.

Meh using pt nuke for the time being then. Found a bottle i had stashed away. Just waiting on my new stuff to arrive so I can tear everything down and clean again and pray my block is actually fine.
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