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post #104431 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.

Silver is outdated as a biocide.

I would assume that a quality plating wouldn't allow the copper to be broken down underneath the plating if what you say is true. Although I believe you might converse with BoxGods about Galvanic Corrosion charts. He believes that silver should be just fine in the loop. Although I cannot speak to his thoughts on pure .999 but on his use of silver plated fittings and bullet plugs. thinking.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #104432 of 105019
Just got a rant for EK helping my friend out with his 2nd replacement bay res that has the same manufacturing fault the 1/4 pump outlet has developed a hairline crack the same as the 1st bay res.
the bungs are also a major engineering fail they are literary holding on a single thread, with a very brittle plastic this reservoir is doomed to fail.

The bung with the plastic thread that came out while removing the bottom drain bung.

The EK bung on the left with the 1 thread engaged beside a standard bung at lest there is a minimum 2 1/2 threads engaged


I couldn't capture the hairline crack it wasn't till we replaced the O-ring and tightened the barb while the pump was running that the crack became evident.
first thought was barb overtightened I can assure you that it was 1/8 turn over finger tight.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jyve View Post

That's funny you mention that. I think that's one of the main reasons I got a sound card. Currently running a matx board but still felt that I needed another card down low to 'even it out'.

Don't get me wrong, I use the thing, it's just isn't really needed.

lachen.gif fill ya slots up
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post #104433 of 105019
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I would assume that a quality plating wouldn't allow the copper to be broken down underneath the plating if what you say is true. Although I believe you might converse with BoxGods about Galvanic Corrosion charts. He believes that silver should be just fine in the loop. Although I cannot speak to his thoughts on pure .999 but on his use of silver plated fittings and bullet plugs. thinking.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

correct,12 microns is considered safe corrosion resistant plating,anything lower is a cosmetic strike.

Geno may well say silver is fine but 2 things, He doesnt make copper products and Science.
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post #104434 of 105019
Hey guys I just wanted to share how awesome Aquacomputer AMS system is, these are going into a desk mod with fans installed below so the copper core is always shown thumb.gif

They may not be the best performers at high rpm but I will use them at low rpms due to the massive surface area to get the most silent system I can smile.gif

Also kudos to Aquacomputer as they are always ready to answer your questions wink.gif





post #104435 of 105019
Holy crap that's a lot of radiating surface you've got there... yeah I don't think cooling efficiency is going to cause any problems - regardless of what CPU and how many GPUs you're planning on running! biggrin.gif

With any normal system you could almost run that much radiator passively and it would do a decent job.
post #104436 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
do you have any emperical evidence it does not? Id love some more Sunday reading!

I know the chart is based on saltwater but I cannot find a single thing that states galvanic corrosion only occurs in saltwater. I have found several times that corrosion in freshwater is subject to the same "rules" as saltwater but it will obviously be slower/less pronounced. Only thing I've really found is that an electrolyte has to be touching both surfaces. While most coolant may be "non-conductive" we all know that the fluid will pick up ions and become conductive over time.

Taking the risk of using silver and nickel together in a loop (especially with only distilled water which has no anti corrosive properties) is plain foolish IMO. It's also been demonstrated multiple times that most installations of silver in a loop aren't sufficient to fully protect from biological occurrences, so i really don't get why we're even having this discussion. It's an outdated method that's been proven ineffective and even problematic as far as I'm concerned.

One manufacturer who makes lots of silver plated products won't change my mind. Some solid evidence may, but i haven't found any yet (ill keep digging though!). I may totally be wrong, im no professional in the field of chemistry (or anything really haha) but until it's been PROVEN to not be an issue, i don't see any reason to condone mixing nickel and silver in a loop. Always better to be on the cautious side

Written from my phone, sorry for any errors smile.gif
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post #104437 of 105019
Hi, this is my try. I need a bit of cable management. rolleyes.gifbc73a5d35a3234da45d73cb359c30dd9.jpg3537fef87382c5db38f78999bd57be9c.jpg

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post #104438 of 105019
Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.

If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.

Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #104439 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.

If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.

Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

What additives are actually the least invasive towards copper and nickel then? I have seen horrible examples with the use of Copper sulphate which would be the original PT-Nuke. Simply asking since I'm looking to replace my blocks with the next upgrade with all copper blocks so something to add to de-mineralised water would be appreciated (I'm not going to import litres upon litres of pre mixed coolant)
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post #104440 of 105019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.

If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.

Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

What additives are actually the least invasive towards copper and nickel then? I have seen horrible examples with the use of Copper sulphate which would be the original PT-Nuke. Simply asking since I'm looking to replace my blocks with the next upgrade with all copper blocks so something to add to de-mineralised water would be appreciated (I'm not going to import litres upon litres of pre mixed coolant)

I have Monsoon fittings so I don't use additives. Just plain distilled water.

But good luck going with a full copper setup. EK is only dropping a Nickel Monoblock for the CVIHero. Shoot they aren't even gonna give me a choice between Acrylic and Acetal. So I will get it and strip it to bare copper or run it til it flakes and then strip it. Likely strip it prior to running it cause I don't want nickel flakes trashing my loop. rolleyes.gif

Don't get me wrong, I love EK. But I have to shake my head when confronted with business choices such as limiting a release to only one option. My 480 block is copper. My RAM block is copper. My CPU blocks are copper. Shoot everything I own is copper, other than the MB block I have on my sig rig. And that too was because EK chose only to release in Copper. I'm going Ryzen now so choice is limited for what I can run. doh.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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