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post #19341 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by OverClocker55 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by randomnerd865 View Post

[/SPOILER]
Wow that is a nice loop, the switch 810 makes water-cooling a dream. To answer you question yes you can make a clean loop like this. Select a clean, water-cooling friendly case and just use you head and pre-plan everything don't be afraid to start over if you don't like it.

ok well I got the 300R and 650D + HAF 912. Which is the best?



All really good. But here is a 912 build for reference if you don't need the 5.25 bay or a HDD cage. Dude has a SSD/2.5 HDD setup. thumb.gif

18823091-2094-6544.jpg

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Crosshair IV Formula Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 
RAMRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
G. Skill Ripjaws X G. Skill x2 HITACHI 1TB Deskstars 1TB RAID0 ASUS DRW-24B1ST  
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EK Supreme High Flow EK Full Coverage Block PrimoChill 1/2"x3/4" tubing EK Black Nickel Compression Fitting 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Enzotech 45 Degree Rotary Fitting EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Koolance Black Nickel 2-3 VGA Bridge(temporaril... Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified Win7 64 bit Ultimate OEM 
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Asus VH222H Black HDMI Widescreen Logitech the OCZ went buhbye adios. Don't know ... Corsair CMPSU HX 850w Modular HAF 932 
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Logitech g9x COOLER MASTER Weapon of Choice: M4 Duramesh Pad Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers Sunbeam Rheosmart 3 
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post #19342 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruelntention View Post

lol depends, what are YOU planning on doing
Well so far my whole build was focused for playing BF3. Just recently having the urge to upgrade, especially to WC.
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post #19343 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Castscythe View Post

well, as far as the internal mounting option goes, when i measured it all out it was really (like about the thickness of a small coin... about as thick as a penny) close to my ram, however, hopefully i will go push pull as you suggested (mounting two more fans onto the rad from inside the case), my only issue for that atm is that i need to choose whether i want to either a) get two more scythe fans for matching specs b) get two more uv reactive fans to match the two im adding to the interior of the case (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_221&products_id=24962 ), or c) using the two fans that came with the rx240 as the interior fans... but currently all options are moot because i dont have 8 more screws to attach them with XP, and i havent tried to figure out a way to do it with cable ties yet XD. in the meantime though, if i can order some more of the purple coolant (i dont want to use the dye instead.... the dye i would have to use to achieve the same color has a bad habit of gunking and clogging). i will take it all down and perhaps drill the holes in the top of the case required to mount it on top w/o using the holes im currently using, but i will try to fit it with the ports closer to the res (like your buildlog), and if i can i will go for that. as far as cable management goes, it will all be redone soon (im buying a 1000w modular psu from a friend, so i will have to redo it when that gets here anyway XP). at this stage i just want to get the 6870 under as well, then add the new psu, and when i add the psu do a complete rebuild and try to fit everything internally and install push/pull configs for the 240 and 120 rads. also during said rebuild i might paint the inside of the case (not powdercoat, but maybe uv paint), as well as *hopefully* adding a window to my other panel so i can run it all with the panels on it again. watercooling this case has certainly been interesting, but on the upside it has at very least kept me thinking XP.
one more thing... i might have to switch to compression fittings, or at least add a few to make routing the tubing around a bit more easy. as far as tubing goes, it will probably end up going something like this = pump out to 240mm like it currently is (unless i can move it into the case), then rad to cpu in, then cpu out to gpu in (or to 120mm rad in the bottom, i havent decided yet... i dont mind using more tubing an have a tube or two cross rolleyes.gif) then from gpu out to rad in to rad out to res in (or from cpu > 120 rad > right side fitting on the card out the left side > res if the cpu goes to the rad instead on the card.)... as you can probably see im still throwing around ideas and sketching them up along with the other projects on my plate (building a router and NAS to replace my dying router and prebuilt tiny nas drive, along with modifying the closet its all housed in to correctly cool everything) , so i have until i can order the new block rad tubing coolant screws and maybe fans in about 2 weeks depending on a few other factors XD

LOL!! wow i had to catch my breath just reading your post mate! I like the enthusiasm thumb.gif
I'll address what i feel im competent in, the rest ill leave it to others better suited in such matters.

1)With regards to your rad, if you have space-even a cents worth of space (as you put it), you can mount your rad inside-what i meant about using a push/pull configuration was, that you could either have your fans pulling or pushing air, i didn't mean use 4 fans-ill explain: your RX 240 is geared for low-medium rpm fans, you dont really have to have 4 fans (2 on top and 2 on the bottom) the difference in temp would be negligible. Check out this link @ Martin's liquid labs (http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/) also have a look @ http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360-v1/ this will further explain the way your low FPI rad works.
So, to continue, you could mount your rad inside your case and then just have 2 fans on the outside either pulling or pushing air into your case (again refer to the Martin's liquid labs link to help you make your choice)-that way you will have less clutter outside your rig and the only outer 'hardware' will be two fans.

2) fans: try to get a pair of Gentle Typhoons (1850 rpm) ok so you wont need the high rpm, but is always better to have the extra should you ever need it.
If you must have UV or led fans, look for such fans that have a high CFM, ie: Gelid UV wing 120 or Enermax fans-look them up, they have many versions.

3)Screws are easy to get, just shoot an e mail to your favourite online water cooling dealer citing what you need screws for(ie your rads specs) and they'll tell you what size you need, then pop down to your local hardware store and shop to your heart's content smile.gif
Cable ties would be a bad option and the screws that you need which are more than likely 6-32 type screws come in many lengths, so you could screw in your fans on top and hold the rad in place that way.

4) coolant/dyes etc BAD!!! Seriously, stick with Distilled water/kill coil etc-just before i stripped my rig to expand it, i tested a well known dye and 3-4 hrs later when i stripped down my rig, my clear tubing was already partially stained-imagine what it would be like after a few months! Get coloured tubing-in your case though, the only purple tubing is made by Mastekleer (i know because i myself was looking for purple tubing)-and I cant say that ive read good things about Mastekleer -that's your call to make.

5) you don't need to drill any hole to mount your rad as long as your rad isn't hitting your ram or mosfets.

6) If you have the money, and you cant be bothered to do all the work involved in cutting a hole to place an acrylic window-look up Coolermaster (US in your case) and get a side panel-they arent that expensive.
You can get the Haf 922 version, or the Sniper panel which also fits the Haf 922, it has a larger window-all you will have to then do is drill 2 small holes so you can screw the panel to your case (the Sniper's holes don't line up with the case)


Loop order doesn't matter that much, the difference in temps is negligible -in fact after a while, the overall temp of your loop steadies itself-go for the shortest tubing route that you can, that aids in flow and it also looks miles neater than some spaghetti junctions that i have seen.

The rest as they same my friend is up to you-my final advice, is get some paper, plan out your rig, then get the parts needed, and HAVE FUN BUILDING your rig-dont try to copy others, yes, sure use other rigs for inspiration, but make your design/rig your own thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gif
post #19344 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by OverClocker55 View Post

So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?
600

Can you post the source?
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post #19345 of 74500
post #19346 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

LOL!! wow i had to catch my breath just reading your post mate! I like the enthusiasm thumb.gif
I'll address what i feel im competent in, the rest ill leave it to others better suited in such matters.
1)With regards to your rad, if you have space-even a cents worth of space (as you put it), you can mount your rad inside-what i meant about using a push/pull configuration was, that you could either have your fans pulling or pushing air, i didn't mean use 4 fans-ill explain: your RX 240 is geared for low-medium rpm fans, you dont really have to have 4 fans (2 on top and 2 on the bottom) the difference in temp would be negligible. Check out this link @ Martin's liquid labs (http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/) also have a look @ http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360-v1/ this will further explain the way your low FPI rad works.
So, to continue, you could mount your rad inside your case and then just have 2 fans on the outside either pulling or pushing air into your case (again refer to the Martin's liquid labs link to help you make your choice)-that way you will have less clutter outside your rig and the only outer 'hardware' will be two fans.
2) fans: try to get a pair of Gentle Typhoons (1850 rpm) ok so you wont need the high rpm, but is always better to have the extra should you ever need it.
If you must have UV or led fans, look for such fans that have a high CFM, ie: Gelid UV wing 120 or Enermax fans-look them up, they have many versions.
3)Screws are easy to get, just shoot an e mail to your favourite online water cooling dealer citing what you need screws for(ie your rads specs) and they'll tell you what size you need, then pop down to your local hardware store and shop to your heart's content smile.gif
Cable ties would be a bad option and the screws that you need which are more than likely 6-32 type screws come in many lengths, so you could screw in your fans on top and hold the rad in place that way.
4) coolant/dyes etc BAD!!! Seriously, stick with Distilled water/kill coil etc-just before i stripped my rig to expand it, i tested a well known dye and 3-4 hrs later when i stripped down my rig, my clear tubing was already partially stained-imagine what it would be like after a few months! Get coloured tubing-in your case though, the only purple tubing is made by Mastekleer (i know because i myself was looking for purple tubing)-and I cant say that ive read good things about Mastekleer -that's your call to make.
5) you don't need to drill any hole to mount your rad as long as your rad isn't hitting your ram or mosfets.
6) If you have the money, and you cant be bothered to do all the work involved in cutting a hole to place an acrylic window-look up Coolermaster (US in your case) and get a side panel-they arent that expensive.
You can get the Haf 922 version, or the Sniper panel which also fits the Haf 922, it has a larger window-all you will have to then do is drill 2 small holes so you can screw the panel to your case (the Sniper's holes don't line up with the case)
Loop order doesn't matter that much, the difference in temps is negligible -in fact after a while, the overall temp of your loop steadies itself-go for the shortest tubing route that you can, that aids in flow and it also looks miles neater than some spaghetti junctions that i have seen.
The rest as they same my friend is up to you-my final advice, is get some paper, plan out your rig, then get the parts needed, and HAVE FUN BUILDING your rig-dont try to copy others, yes, sure use other rigs for inspiration, but make your design/rig your own thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gif

i have looked at he sniper panel, but last i checked the cm store was down, (and coincidentally they might have stopped selling the side panel), but i will check again.
im going to investigate the gelid fans, (so it seems my best option would be to mount the rad internally, with the gentle typhoons mounted on top w/ a grill or filter, maybe with a shroud, then use the gelid option [im looking at this one > http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=56&tab=2 ] for internal use on the bottom rad and rear exhaust fan.) as far as uv or led goes, i would like to use uv fans, but not led fans... that probably sounds kinda weird but i have found that all the led fans i have ever used have been harsh enough to like the rest of the case, so i would rather go with a more passive option (in this case the uv cathodes lighting the fan blades)
and i dont mind cutting a custom window, in fact, i was actually planning on it. i would rather be able to do it myself, but if the sniper window comes up for sale again i will consider it.
also, as far as the cable tie fan mounting idea went i was joking XD, i didnt think that it would be a very good idea, or very effective for that matter.
as far as drilling holes i meant that it would be a possibility if my rad was still mounted on top of the case, which it *hopefully* wont be.
i found the Masterkleer tubing you suggested, and perhaps i will swap out all of my tubing to that when i order the 120mm rad and the gpu block. seems promising, i will just have to find a way to get the 7/16th tubing im using right now off my 1/2" barbs XD... its going to be interesting...

last thing... out of curiosity, which dye did you test?
post #19347 of 74500
@Castscythe-ive sent you a PM with the reply

If you can unscrew the barbs, do so then place them in hot water, the tubing (or whats left of it) can then be removed very easily.
Edited by kkorky - 4/9/12 at 9:29pm
post #19348 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

@Castscythe-ive sent you a PM with the reply
If you can unscrew the barbs, do so then place them in hot water, the tubing (or whats left of it) can then be removed very easily.

sweet, thanks. i didnt see this update until i replied to the pm XD. and it seems right now that the basic plan is to to a complete system rebuild when i order the new rad, the masterkleer, the fans (and distributing the other fans to another rig in my house, most likely the closet project), and making a more finished product. eventually (over this summer, or who knows when, but hopefully soon), i hope to replace my pump res, get a tube res (perhaps mounting it on my vertical expansion slot, or in the space left on the mobo tray... unless i have replaced my mobo+cpu by then... but thats all up in the air), or a bay res (havent decided, to many possibly fun options biggrin.gif) and replace the rasa with something like the EK HF, as well as replacing my barbs with compression fittings if i can, but we shall see. i have some good plans for this rig, its just all dependent on how much extra $ i can generate right now XD.

*edit* how is frozen cpu? i havent used them before, and its the only us store i can find the masterkleer at :worried:...
post #19349 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by OverClocker55 View Post

So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?

I think it just requires planning, and some motivation smile.gif I was pretty much a noob too, and after a bit of research I ended up with what you see in my sig.
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HAFX ReVamped
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Gigabyte P35K
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Corsair Force 3 120GB 2x WD Black 640 GB (RAID0) Seagate Barracuda 3TB See Sig 
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Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Samsung 2443BW-HAS 1920x1200 Razer Blackwidow Corsair HX850 
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Cooler Master HAF X Cyborg R.A.T. 9 Asus Xonar DX Klipsch Promedia 2.1 
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i7 4700HQ GTX765M Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600Mhz CL9 Plextor PX-M5M mSATA 
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post #19350 of 74500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winrahr View Post

I think it just requires planning, and some motivation smile.gif I was pretty much a noob too, and after a bit of research I ended up with what you see in my sig.

kk thumb.gif
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