Originally Posted by Castscythe
well, as far as the internal mounting option goes, when i measured it all out it was really (like about the thickness of a small coin... about as thick as a penny) close to my ram, however, hopefully i will go push pull as you suggested (mounting two more fans onto the rad from inside the case), my only issue for that atm is that i need to choose whether i want to either a) get two more scythe fans for matching specs b) get two more uv reactive fans to match the two im adding to the interior of the case (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_221&products_id=24962
), or c) using the two fans that came with the rx240 as the interior fans... but currently all options are moot because i dont have 8 more screws to attach them with XP, and i havent tried to figure out a way to do it with cable ties yet XD. in the meantime though, if i can order some more of the purple coolant (i dont want to use the dye instead.... the dye i would have to use to achieve the same color has a bad habit of gunking and clogging). i will take it all down and perhaps drill the holes in the top of the case required to mount it on top w/o using the holes im currently using, but i will try to fit it with the ports closer to the res (like your buildlog), and if i can i will go for that. as far as cable management goes, it will all be redone soon (im buying a 1000w modular psu from a friend, so i will have to redo it when that gets here anyway XP). at this stage i just want to get the 6870 under as well, then add the new psu, and when i add the psu do a complete rebuild and try to fit everything internally and install push/pull configs for the 240 and 120 rads. also during said rebuild i might paint the inside of the case (not powdercoat, but maybe uv paint), as well as *hopefully* adding a window to my other panel so i can run it all with the panels on it again. watercooling this case has certainly been interesting, but on the upside it has at very least kept me thinking XP.
one more thing... i might have to switch to compression fittings, or at least add a few to make routing the tubing around a bit more easy. as far as tubing goes, it will probably end up going something like this = pump out to 240mm like it currently is (unless i can move it into the case), then rad to cpu in, then cpu out to gpu in (or to 120mm rad in the bottom, i havent decided yet... i dont mind using more tubing an have a tube or two cross
) then from gpu out to rad in to rad out to res in (or from cpu > 120 rad > right side fitting on the card out the left side > res if the cpu goes to the rad instead on the card.)... as you can probably see im still throwing around ideas and sketching them up along with the other projects on my plate (building a router and NAS to replace my dying router and prebuilt tiny nas drive, along with modifying the closet its all housed in to correctly cool everything) , so i have until i can order the new block rad tubing coolant screws and maybe fans in about 2 weeks depending on a few other factors XD
LOL!! wow i had to catch my breath just reading your post mate! I like the enthusiasm
I'll address what i feel im competent in, the rest ill leave it to others better suited in such matters.
1)With regards to your rad, if you have space-even a cents worth of space (as you put it), you can mount your rad inside-what i meant about using a push/pull configuration was, that you could either have your fans pulling or pushing air, i didn't mean use 4 fans-ill explain: your RX 240 is geared for low-medium rpm fans, you dont really have to have 4 fans (2 on top and 2 on the bottom) the difference in temp would be negligible. Check out this link @ Martin's liquid labs (http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/
) also have a look @ http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360-v1/
this will further explain the way your low FPI rad works.
So, to continue, you could mount your rad inside your case and then just have 2 fans on the outside either pulling or pushing air into your case (again refer to the Martin's liquid labs link to help you make your choice)-that way you will have less clutter outside your rig and the only outer 'hardware' will be two fans.
2) fans: try to get a pair of Gentle Typhoons (1850 rpm) ok so you wont need the high rpm, but is always better to have the extra should you ever need it.
If you must have UV or led fans, look for such fans that have a high CFM, ie: Gelid UV wing 120 or Enermax fans-look them up, they have many versions.
3)Screws are easy to get, just shoot an e mail to your favourite online water cooling dealer citing what you need screws for(ie your rads specs) and they'll tell you what size you need, then pop down to your local hardware store and shop to your heart's content
Cable ties would be a bad option and the screws that you need which are more than likely 6-32 type screws come in many lengths, so you could screw in your fans on top and hold the rad in place that way.
4) coolant/dyes etc BAD!!! Seriously, stick with Distilled water/kill coil etc-just before i stripped my rig to expand it, i tested a well known dye and 3-4 hrs later when i stripped down my rig, my clear tubing was already partially stained-imagine what it would be like after a few months! Get coloured tubing-in your case though, the only purple tubing is made by Mastekleer (i know because i myself was looking for purple tubing)-and I cant say that ive read good things about Mastekleer -that's your call to make.
5) you don't need to drill any hole to mount your rad as long as your rad isn't hitting your ram or mosfets.
6) If you have the money, and you cant be bothered to do all the work involved in cutting a hole to place an acrylic window-look up Coolermaster (US in your case) and get a side panel-they arent that expensive.
You can get the Haf 922 version, or the Sniper panel which also fits the Haf 922, it has a larger window-all you will have to then do is drill 2 small holes so you can screw the panel to your case (the Sniper's holes don't line up with the case)
Loop order doesn't matter that much, the difference in temps is negligible -in fact after a while, the overall temp of your loop steadies itself-go for the shortest tubing route that you can, that aids in flow and it also looks miles neater than some spaghetti junctions that i have seen.
The rest as they same my friend is up to you-my final advice, is get some paper, plan out your rig, then get the parts needed, and HAVE FUN BUILDING your rig-dont try to copy others, yes, sure use other rigs for inspiration, but make your design/rig your own