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post #19551 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willhemmens View Post

why go water when you could just get a big aircooler?

This always gives me a chuckle...
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post #19552 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

You're not taking into account that for YOU this is the case. I should note that none of the reviewers state which FPI the test Rad is. Not that it should matter too much if you're looking at the results with an open mind. You should see which model works the best. If the Low Speed works the best then you're looking at a Low FPI Radiator. If High Speed works best you're looking at High FPI which has more surface area to push air through.
Obvious you didn't even look at the reviews or pictures. It states what radiators they are testing on. Is it too difficult for you to google the FPI on those rads?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

By your stance, what you're saying is that your Low FPI Radiator is what everyone runs. I've pointed out the flaw in this argument. I'm not going to run out and buy $45 worth of GTs' (conservative estimate) just to get one or two degrees better temps. This is a lot like TIM. Which is best is subjective to what you run, how much the part is and availability. GTs' are quite often sold out. What do I do if I have to replace one or maybe all of my fans. I can get 3 Yates for a 3rd of the price that I would have to pay for GTs'. I can get the same results you did(minus the fan clicking) in performance with Low Speed Yates on your Low FPI Radiator. That's indisputable. Your concerns over quality plastics and dB aside the Low Speed Yates and the GTs' will do the same job in reasonably similar fashion.
Now the clicking. I dunno, maybe my RheoSmart controller doesn't go low enough to expose clicking. I have my controller set to a little over half which has my Yates running their lowest possible speed without coming to a dead stop. No clicking. Not a single bit of it. I even sat on the table closest to my case while I reached around and fiddled with the appropriate knob. Nothing. I guess I could use a mechanics scope to listen directly to the hub, but if I can't hear it practically sitting on top of it, it's not occurring.
I'm not saying you aren't experiencing a benefit by changing but AC charges a surcharge on orders under $75 to the States. Last I checked, 3 GTs' from them is less than $75 so not only do you pay the price of the fan but you pay the shipping. I can beat the hell out of the AC price for GTs' with PPCs' price and shipping of the Yates regardless of speed and CFM rates. Low Speed is the same Price as High Speed and LED is the same as nonLED.
I'm happy for you I am, I just think that you're not looking at the whole issue while proclaiming GTs' king. They aren't. They are just as good. Yates price makes them king in most every way. If my fans start clicking, I'll lubricate them and move on. A little mineral oil will fix that right up. thumb.gif
*snip*
You need to actually read what's posted and the reviews. I stated I switched between low and high fpi rads. The GT's gave better performance in _ALL_ cases.
Read the reviews, and look at the data. They back up what I'm saying. You have not posted a single shred of hard evidence to support your position. I have provided direct hard scientific evidence that PROVES what I'm saying.

Not to mention your blatant inflation of the actual price and availability of GT's. I got them for $16 a pop shipped from aquatuning.us, who has not been out of stock of them since december: http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6624_Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-1850-rpm---120x120x25mm--.html
And yeah, your entire argument about GT's being expensive is totally moot. You just spent hundreds on a water cooler. Paying $16 a fan instead of $7 a fan doesn't make a large difference in the overall cost.

Finally, google 'yate loon clicking.' Your fans are new. It's a developed thing as the sleeve bearings wear out and leave grit in the assembly. Oiling them doesn't fix it. Also, orientation exacerbates the problem. If the fans are sitting horizontally, blowing air up and down, there's less wear on the bearing than if they're upright.
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post #19553 of 106068
Ceadder why the teflon on the tubing?
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post #19554 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post

Ceadder why the teflon on the tubing?

You mean because that's not what it's for, at all, and serves no purpose on the outside of the tubing? rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif
I just wrote it off as something that happens with people that don't know that they're doing. wink.gif
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post #19555 of 106068
well, time for an update =D. i added two UV cathodes (i would have preferred LED's but i dont have access to any atm, two green uv gelid fans (i LOVE these fans... so awesome... and they come with uv silicon fan mounts and PPC sleeved them for me for free biggrin.gif). one is is rear exhaust, and one is in bottom intake. and, as you can probably see, i added uv anti kink coils, not because i needed them, but because i like the looks XP. hopefully i will be putting the gfx card under and adding that 120mm rad (im thinking a black ice GT Stealth 120 XFlow... thoughts?), as well as moving my rx240 into the case soon. any thoughts/comments appreciated smile.gif

450

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post #19556 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson View Post

You mean because that's not what it's for, at all, and serves no purpose on the outside of the tubing? rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif
I just wrote it off as something that happens with people that don't know that they're doing. wink.gif

Okay i have been reading this thread for a long time, Cheadder knows what he is doing, he helped me with my loop, and (I have been forced to conclude that) you don't know what you are doing

Here is what i have concluded
Warning: RANT! (Click to show)
You are either very rich and expect all of the rest of us to be the same way and not care about money, well i have to break something to you when you are running a setup like many of the people here you need 15-20 fans and at 20 dollars a piece that is $400 in fans alone, where as with YL you only need to spend ~$50 for all of your fans. And your arguments are that the YL are worse than GT and i will agree with you but it is like pitting your grandmothers honda against a ferrari, the ferrari gets you from point a to b and so does the honda, however the ferrari will get there slightly quicker because it has better acceleration. the same thing with these fans, the YL at worst will function about 2-3C worse than the GT at the same RPM however the YL will spool up to a higher RPM and many of us game with headphones on so we can stand having a slightly louder computer if it will save us $350.

The thing that really ticks me off though is the fact that your just starting here on OCN and have no reputation whatsoever however the person you are calling an idiot has been here far longer and has a far better reputation.

There Rant Over smile.gif
post #19557 of 106068
^^^Thank you for your confidence chap, but this is my first loop. I'm sure there are much more experienced Water Coolers than I here. I just relate the information that I gleaned from a lot of research and common sense, if I'm wrong I don't mind being corrected so that misinformation is not being thrown about willy nilly. Oh an Rep is not the end all be all of a member's knowledge or opinion. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willhemmens View Post

Hey Ceadderman, why go water when you could just get a big aircooler, temps that aren't for off for a ton cheaper?

My temps are at Full Load for 24/7 with 2 fans operating in Pull on my 360. No Air Cooler would give me the same temps. My system dropped 10c with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull. mellowsmiley.gif

Not even the best Air Cooler would do that. thumb.gif

Teflon Tape?

Oh sorry chaps, I should explain. EK Black Nickel Comps tend to rub black mark on the tubing. Well this not being black tubing black mark sticks out like a sore thumb. Example...

338

See all the greyish black rings on that short piece of tubing? mellowsmiley.gif

So I wrap teflon tape around the tubing to keep it pristine looking after the tape is removed. cool.gif

Zoson... THESE fans be new. Don't make me whip out pics showing Yates in use for over 2 years in THIS system now. The results wouldn't be pretty. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - 4/15/12 at 2:53pm
 
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post #19558 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Okay back to the eye candy... Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
338
338
338
Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it. wheee.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

It's Alive!


327
post #19559 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdude View Post

Okay i have been reading this thread for a long time, Cheadder knows what he is doing, he helped me with my loop, and (I have been forced to conclude that) you don't know what you are doing
Here is what i have concluded Warning: RANT! (Click to show)
You are either very rich and expect all of the rest of us to be the same way and not care about money, well i have to break something to you when you are running a setup like many of the people here you need 15-20 fans and at 20 dollars a piece that is $400 in fans alone, where as with YL you only need to spend ~$50 for all of your fans. And your arguments are that the YL are worse than GT and i will agree with you but it is like pitting your grandmothers honda against a ferrari, the ferrari gets you from point a to b and so does the honda, however the ferrari will get there slightly quicker because it has better acceleration. the same thing with these fans, the YL at worst will function about 2-3C worse than the GT at the same RPM however the YL will spool up to a higher RPM and many of us game with headphones on so we can stand having a slightly louder computer if it will save us $350.
The thing that really ticks me off though is the fact that your just starting here on OCN and have no reputation whatsoever however the person you are calling an idiot has been here far longer and has a far better reputation.
There Rant Over smile.gif

Fanboy's will do what they will.
I'm a reputable member on forums that existed long before this place was even a glimmer in the owners eyes. I came here because this is where people with 560ti 448's are congregating. Just like other forum. There are lots of people like you and Cheadder.

Neither you nor Cheadder have provided evidence of any sort. Nor do you OR he need '15-20 fans'.

I'll also correct your math.
15*7 = $105
20*7 = $140

15*16 = $240
20*16 = $320

Which as I said already, is around 2x the cost.

Oh, and if you actually ARE like the majority here and are running a 3x120mm rad or two 2x120mm rads, that's 6 or 8 fans. Not 15-20... lol. And you have an H100. rolleyes.gif I'm sure you needed copious amounts of help setting THAT up.

Also, I love how people spend $100 on a reservoir that provides no cooling benefit, but looks cool. Then complain about not wanting to spend money on expensive fans. Spend $20 on an MCRes v2 that works well, and then you have $80 left for your fans, which actually improve your performance.
Edited by zoson - 4/15/12 at 2:41pm
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post #19560 of 106068
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyNumber13 View Post

IGNORE THE DATE STAMP ON THE PICS.. i'm lazy and every time i change batteries i have to change date..didn't do it last time.
This is my first computer build let alone a liquid cooled one.
let me know what you think.
NZXT Phantom case (Modded)
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Intel I7 2700k at 4.5ghz. (1.27 v)
gtx 580 hydro copper 2 (3g)
i'm going to thread the pump in the near future so i can
have a 90 to 90 from my pump to my 1st rad. so it
doens't part block the view of the res. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
450


Looks good but I might be a little concerned about the bottom tube that goes from your pump to your bottom radiator. That bend looks a bit tight and your tubing already appears to have collapsed a little.
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