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post #20051 of 105880
Hey guys, should i go with the EK LTX in clear for $45 or the Raystorm for $50
if i get the raystorm ill probably paint it, if i get the EK it will be blue due to my future fluid
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post #20052 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Only a completely open plate would offer the best flow rate. So if you can figure out where to drill them you could drill a couple holes through the blank and use a rat tail file to deburr it and make sure there is no shavings left with a good wipe down prior to use. No it won't be completely open but given that there are two flow chambers in the top of the block that's not really going to matter anyway unless you mod the top and that would void any warranty you have with it. So if you take one of the other plates where you can see the flow chambers and mark the central vane on the plate you can use that to get an idea of where to punch through the blank. Circles will ALWAYS flow better than slots. smile.gif


Dude made a plate to mount to the radiator through the fans effectively sandwiching them in place while giving him someplace to mount the filter. Thats an awesome idea too one I'm probably going to copy. I already have dust filters in place but it would be nice to add one to the underside of my 360 should I choose to add Push. I can add a 360 filter right now the way it is but if I go with Push I'd have to get a filter for each one w/o a magnetic seal for it. biggrin.gif
First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...

As for the block, I have a mill, so I can precisely locate holes and slots wherever I want them... And I'm not concerned about flowrate and restriction necessarily, I'm looking for temperature performance- that may require some restriction since the block was originally designed to use jet impingement. I'm also not concerned really about modding the top as long as it doesn't hurt the structure of the block, goal would still be to increase thermal performance.

Also, circles will NOT always flow better than slots, that's a horrible generalization to make. If you want flowrate, the wider the opening, the more flow- you're not into a super high-flow regime where the boundary layer off the wall will cause issues. Same reason a box shroud on a rad will out perform 3 fans over gutted fan-shrouds. Unless I'm specifically trying to induce vortices in the flow over the fins, a matrix of circles will not be the way to go, and in fact they're liable to be more restrictive than the slot.

I think I'll try to make some new blanks out of brass and then do some tests to see what shape works the best- it could be that the added turbulence from a bunch of round holes would help, or increasing the flow by making a wide open slot would work. Personally I think a single slot is the way to go, and then it's a matter of dialing in the right dimensions, but we'll see where the experiments lead...
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post #20053 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Only a completely open plate would offer the best flow rate. So if you can figure out where to drill them you could drill a couple holes through the blank and use a rat tail file to deburr it and make sure there is no shavings left with a good wipe down prior to use. No it won't be completely open but given that there are two flow chambers in the top of the block that's not really going to matter anyway unless you mod the top and that would void any warranty you have with it. So if you take one of the other plates where you can see the flow chambers and mark the central vane on the plate you can use that to get an idea of where to punch through the blank. Circles will ALWAYS flow better than slots. smile.gif


Dude made a plate to mount to the radiator through the fans effectively sandwiching them in place while giving him someplace to mount the filter. Thats an awesome idea too one I'm probably going to copy. I already have dust filters in place but it would be nice to add one to the underside of my 360 should I choose to add Push. I can add a 360 filter right now the way it is but if I go with Push I'd have to get a filter for each one w/o a magnetic seal for it. biggrin.gif
First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...

As for the block, I have a mill, so I can precisely locate holes and slots wherever I want them... And I'm not concerned about flowrate and restriction necessarily, I'm looking for temperature performance- that may require some restriction since the block was originally designed to use jet impingement. I'm also not concerned really about modding the top as long as it doesn't hurt the structure of the block, goal would still be to increase thermal performance.

Also, circles will NOT always flow better than slots, that's a horrible generalization to make. If you want flowrate, the wider the opening, the more flow- you're not into a super high-flow regime where the boundary layer off the wall will cause issues. Same reason a box shroud on a rad will out perform 3 fans over gutted fan-shrouds. Unless I'm specifically trying to induce vortices in the flow over the fins, a matrix of circles will not be the way to go, and in fact they're liable to be more restrictive than the slot.

I think I'll try to make some new blanks out of brass and then do some tests to see what shape works the best- it could be that the added turbulence from a bunch of round holes would help, or increasing the flow by making a wide open slot would work. Personally I think a single slot is the way to go, and then it's a matter of dialing in the right dimensions, but we'll see where the experiments lead...

Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds. smile.gif

I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that. smile.gif

@werm... to be honest I rather like using my lighter. I can focus the heat better than using a heatgun. I have a hair dryer for initially shrinking the stuff down until the focus work requires a little more attention. Once I get it down to that I just keep moving the work while heating the shrink. Turns out pretty nice. My webbie doesn't do it justice imho. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #20054 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds. smile.gif
I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that. smile.gif

Demci filters have saved my rig in my current apartment biggrin.gif Wish they came in MORA size....

I should also clarify: I'm not going to go for multiple slots, it's going to be a single one, opening thickess and width may be varied to experiment, but I'm not stacking slots together like the other jet plates, I just don't think they'll perform. As for the chambers and circles vs slots, a slot that's broken up by the divide in that top chamber would probably have better flow unless the circles were much larger than the openings simply because the circles would block flow in the corners where a slot would have all that extra area open. I think the divider is there to help equalize and direct the flow and pressure within the block, but it may also be there for internal strength - when I pull the block I'll check it out and do some tests to figure out a game plan. Just wish I had a block to run in the mean time- hate to take this rig offline just to mess with the block... Anybody got one they want to lend me for a week? biggrin.gif
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post #20055 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

Hey guys, should i go with the EK LTX in clear for $45 or the Raystorm for $50
if i get the raystorm ill probably paint it, if i get the EK it will be blue due to my future fluid

RayStorm.
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post #20056 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds. smile.gif
I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that. smile.gif

Demci filters have saved my rig in my current apartment biggrin.gif Wish they came in MORA size....

I should also clarify: I'm not going to go for multiple slots, it's going to be a single one, opening thickess and width may be varied to experiment, but I'm not stacking slots together like the other jet plates, I just don't think they'll perform. As for the chambers and circles vs slots, a slot that's broken up by the divide in that top chamber would probably have better flow unless the circles were much larger than the openings simply because the circles would block flow in the corners where a slot would have all that extra area open. I think the divider is there to help equalize and direct the flow and pressure within the block, but it may also be there for internal strength - when I pull the block I'll check it out and do some tests to figure out a game plan. Just wish I had a block to run in the mean time- hate to take this rig offline just to mess with the block... Anybody got one they want to lend me for a week? biggrin.gif

Had I a spare it would be yours Mate. smile.gif

I think that you wouldn't want the plate to be larger than the opening due to possible spillage into the outlet chamber causing needless cavitation. I do agree that the holes would have to be a fair size. It's been some time since I had my block apart but I'm thinking 5-7mm diameter each (+/-). Although I do like your idea of spreading the slots apart a bit. That could do the job better. Can't wait to see some results though. You want I'll send you my blank for the cause. Just PM me your specifics. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #20057 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post

First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...
[snip]

it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...

Anyways, thank you
post #20058 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by saucon View Post

it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...
Anyways, thank you

I'm getting better temps than my 2600k at 4.5 smile.gif My block is also considered a bit restricted but I've never had this come up as a concern. Only time I would contemplate restriction is pump performance and life.

Oh, yeah, I do like to sit back and enjoy a well thought out debacle or conversion among our gurus and experts here smile.gif
post #20059 of 105880
What heat gun do u use? I've only used lighters and it seems a heat gun might make my life easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saucon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post

First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...
[snip]

it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...

Anyways, thank you

Speaking of filters, the koolance inline filter seems to be one of the greatest things to ever happen to watercooling. I've used it in two builds and over a total of a 4 year period it has caught all the gunk from dyed fluids in my first build as well as caught any and all buildup since then in both builds, both running without any biocides and only distilled water. Definitely worth the small cost.
Edited by fat_italian_stallion - 4/24/12 at 10:29pm
 
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(16 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3960X w/ EK Supreme HF  Asus Rampage IV Extreme w/ EK full cover Tri SLi EVGA GTX TITAN SC w/ EK full cover & Ba... 64 GB Dominator w/ MIPS Ram Cooler 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
1TB Samsung EVO 850 2x 2TB Western Digital Caviar Black 1x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 560  Bitspower Pump Upgrade Kit 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 280 Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 480 Dual Uber MCP655 Noiseblocker PK-3  
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Bitspower Compression Fittings Lamptron FC-8 Noiseblocker PL-2 Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus PB287Q 4K Steelseries 7G Custum wired EVGA NEX 1500 Caselabs SMA8 
MouseMouse Pad
Rat 7 Razer Goliathus XL 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 c0 @ 4.2 Ghz w/ 1.4v max 4.6ghz @1.55v w... Asus P6T6 WS Revolution w/ koolance nb/sb+mosfe... EVGA GTX 480 x3 w/ Koolance Vid-NX480 12gb Corsair Dominator 1600mhz w/ MIPS Ramcooler 6 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
1.5 Tb Seagate barracuda x3 LG Bluray Burner 2x SR1 360, RX 360, SR1 240, SR1 120, 2x MCP355... Win 7 Ultimate 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung t260 x3 Razer Black Widow Ultimate Silverstone st1200 Mountain Mods U2UFO w/ MM Pedestal Addition 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Razer Mamba Razer Destructor X-Fi Fata1ity Logitech Z-5500 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i7 3840QM 650ti 8GB 1333mhz DDR3 256gb ssd 
OSMonitorPowerCase
OSX Mountain Lion Retina Display 85w Magsafe Power Adapter Aluminum Unibody 
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post #20060 of 105880
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post

What heat gun do u use? I've only used lighters and it seems a heat gun might make my life easier.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

I use the low mode for the shrink wrap. Don't use the high mode or that will metl your stuff instantly biggrin.gif I got mine a few years back and I've never had issues with it. I use on cores (cpu and gpu) when there a bit stuck and I can't separate them and a few other things. Makes it easy in removing decals and stickers from stuff too thumb.gif
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